discussion USS Blueback Sub Build

[Guest]

Up-dated pic. This is my sub!



I'm currently doing a US sub which will have RCABS static dive and subtech running gear. Dave Welch tubes and end caps etc. The pic is of the first one off the press by Steve Neill CA.

Here's a link to the page on my site:

http://magpieyachts.com/building14.html

Jason

 

[Guest]

Nice looking sub Jason.

have a good evening,

Greg aka GW

 

[Guest]

Hi Greg.

That's Steve's first BB. I'm building mine now . (Just to avoid confusion)

Regards

Jason

 

[Guest]

Mags, if this build thread is going to be anything like the U-Boat story I for one will be looking forward to it.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Bunk.

That u-boat build was the best thing I ever did. Really enjoyed it and it hooked me on subs.

I'm updateing my site page as I go and I'll post a thread in 1 go once it's done on here. Save doubling up every night etc. Give me more build time etc.

I know it's slack but I'm a bit slack too!

Still love this site BTW

Jason

 

[Guest]

I'm not doing a full thread on it here as I said above, but I'll post an occasional pic along the way.

Jason

 

[Guest]

Looking good Jason :grinball2:

 

[Guest]

Getting there!

Thanks Mankster!!

I’m getting there. Just waiting on my Dave Welch WTC kit to arrive to finish her off.eace:

 

[Guest]

Hi Jason,

How did you do that scum line? With an airbrush and masking tape obviously, but did you just mask of the top end and do the rest freehand? What technique did you use. Just one colour? One continous movement or lots of sharp bursts? How far away did you hold the brush aand did you spary the entire lower hull with a dusting or did you stop just below the scum line?

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

Hi Jason,How did you do that scum line? With an airbrush and masking tape obviously, but did you just mask of the top end and do the rest freehand? What technique did you use. Just one colour? One continous movement or lots of sharp bursts? How far away did you hold the brush aand did you spary the entire lower hull with a dusting or did you stop just below the scum line?

Cheers!

Yes I masked it using the lazer light on a block and mixed up a couple of colours. First a brown a bit darker than the bottom paint and second a green to simulate mould/weed. I airbrushed (low pressure-just enought to work the spray) in a constant flow from about 45 deg from above and about 6" away aiming at the tape to allow the overspray to fan out on the hull. I wipe the dribbles off the tabe with rag before they reach the hull. I also always do a coat of clear before any detail work incase I want to 'click REDO' IE rub it back off and start again. This saves damaging the base coat.The green is just on odd bits as it would be for real. Low pressure areas etc. I use car acrylic laquer for the above and A L clear sprayed from about a metre to land slightly sandy.

Thanks for your interest BTW!!

Jason

 

[Guest]

Thanks Jason, I am going to gie that a go.

 

[Guest]

She’s all done externally now. Once the WTC bits get here, I’ll make her a goer.

Note: The sail/tower isn't attached yet. It looks crooked. Will be straight!

 

[Guest]

Nice job Magpie. That waterline treatment is very interesting and something I have been thinking about for my steam coaster.

I was thinking along the lines of floating paint on the surface of water and putting the hull into it but i think there will be a fair amount of experimentation first!!! Is is a very reall effect though and one that I haven't seen attempted before. It does look the part on the sub.

I would like to try to recreate a number of differrent lines overlapping at differrent draughts and trims but that might be getting a bit ambitious!!!

 

[Guest]

Hi Bunk

I just set the boat up on the kitchen table and use my lazer level (about US$7 from Micro Mark) and make the waterline marks at both ends the some height by sliding the light on a wooden block, around from end to end. I then set it up and move it along as I apply the masking tape with the edge just cutting the red light line. (see pics). I give it a clear coat first and then airbrush downwoods at about 45 deg. and aim at the tape so the overspray fans onto the hull. I use the lowest pressure that'll still make it spray with thin paint. (acrylic laquer car paint I use). I did a full coat of brown and then a few bits of green at the low pressure spots to look like weedy mould etc. I overcoat it with clear. You could do that a few times to get the different water levels etc.

Jason

 

[Guest]

Thanks mate

Here's a couple of pics of the lazer beam.

 

[Guest]

I started on my WTC today. I’m using a Subtech motor-belt gear setup and I fitted that today and I made a bracket for the 2 servos from square plastic tube and flat ABS sheet. It also supports the belt drive. The servos run the rudder and dive planes. The speedie also goes in the back section and the APC. The air pump goes in the middle one and the battery (Li-poly) 7.4 2500mah and receiver and regulater go in the front one. The 2 front parts are adjoined for air pressure storage and the aft one is separate to avoid positive pressure on the Subtech seals from the inside when the bladder is empty.

 

[Guest]

I got a bit more done on her.

I bench tested the driveline and it's all cool. I'm working on the ballast pump now.

Jason

 

[Guest]

I test assembled the WTC today after drilling and bonding the caps last night. It’s a bit different to the standard kit layout in that I’m using a Subtech switch and clippard valve. I mounted the receiver in the central tube instead of the rear one. The Li-poly battery will be mounted flat in the front tube as it's a bit bigger than Dave's in length and won't fit up against the front cap. I put the air hose outlet in the front instead of having it go through the back cap and back out again at the top. This way I only need to seal one exit point and it gives me a bit more room. My apc is stickyback taped to a servo and the SSS switch for the pump is on the back of the receiver which fits nicely in the middle tube where I can easily get to it and see what crystal it has through the lexan. I'm putting the power switch bolts through the upper back of the front cap as I'd need to remove the whole WTC to access them if they were on the front or put a hatch in the fore deck etc. There's room for them there so it's cool.





This is a prop guard I made that clips on and off. It’s a precaution for when I’m learning to drive her and for my Scope guys who may back her into the bricks!

 

[Guest]

I like the guard, the prop does look very exposed.

When you look at the tapering off at the back end though what a lovely uninterupted flow through the prop you've got there.

 

[Guest]

Yes I've been reading up on them a lot and they are very quiet with regard to cavitation for listening hydrophoned etc. That's why all the modern ones before turbo props (US atleast) have single fully aft props. If it's close to the hull, the blades go through "dead water" low pressure areas and the pressure change causes micro cavitation which is noisy and even erodes the prop blades apparently! Dave M makes nice white metal props to scale, but they are a bit fragile so the guard will be on it most of the time. Once removed there's only the top hole visible and it's right where the real one has a stern light so I can stick a removable one in the hole if I get all rivet counter happy later on or the club members are too judgemental as they can be at times.:judge:

PS Thanks for the much appreciated feedback mate!