discussion Washes, filters, and oil paints

[Guest]

somehwere I saw a video tutorial on how to make pin washes and filters from oil paints, but I can't find it anymore.


Ive got some small sealable pots from hobbycraft which I'd like to use to make some washes and filters ready mixed.


Can anyone help?


Thanks

 

[Guest]

Dave, a wash is made from adding white spirit to the oil paint. The consistency depends on personal choice. There's no right or wrong!


Try experimenting & see how different blends work best for you. IMHO the most important thing is a nice glossy surface - it makes the wash flow much easier & allows any excess to be easily wiped away.


A filter on the other hand is the complete opposite. Essentially it's tinted thinner rather than thinned paint. It's applied to a matt surface to ensure the filter lays on the surface.


The microscopic hollows in a matt coat get filled with the filter, producing the tonal effect. For this reason, I always apply a matt coat to a model before using a filter to protect the paint.


Although not strictly about washes & filters, the link shows an excellent article about weathering with oil paints.


http://missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html

 

[Guest]

To give you an idea some modellers use the dirty old thinners from their brush cleaning jar as a wash. Most may want a slightly higher opacity but that is the ball park you are in. The filter is a means of toning down colour differences and making the colour look less harsh and more scale in appearance and, as Patrick says is not much more than tinted thinners. You can buy them both ready to use so maybe starting off with a branded example to give you an idea to work with then progressing to making your own might be a good way forward.

 

[PaulTRose]

any good?

 

[Guest]

Excellent, thank you guys!

 

[Guest]

Dave, a wash is made from adding white spirit to the oil paint. The consistency depends on personal choice. There's no right or wrong!
Try experimenting & see how different blends work best for you. IMHO the most important thing is a nice glossy surface - it makes the wash flow much easier & allows any excess to be easily wiped away.


A filter on the other hand is the complete opposite. Essentially it's tinted thinner rather than thinned paint. It's applied to a matt surface to ensure the filter lays on the surface.


The microscopic hollows in a matt coat get filled with the filter, producing the tonal effect. For this reason, I always apply a matt coat to a model before using a filter to protect the paint.


Although not strictly about washes & filters, the link shows an excellent article about weathering with oil paints.


http://missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html

Great resource!!

 

[Guest]

I got some oil paints today, two different types.


I bought two tubes of Winston oil paints, Burnt umber and Raw Umber,


Also got a small primary colour set by Steadfast, which had five tubes for £2.99


I have got these small sealable pots, and made up some washes to keep handy, and boy, is it worth paying the extra for quality oil paints!


The winston brand is a thick decent oil paint, mixes really well with turps to make a nice wash.


I then made a white and a mellow sand wash from the steadfast ones, and they're way way different! The oil paint is nowhere near as pigmented, and when mixed, doesn't produce as nice and even colour as the Winston.


So you DO get what you pay for.


One last question, as I'm dumber than a dumb thing, what's the difference between turpentine and white spirit??

 

[Guest]

any good?

Useful vid to show how to make the filter, however, I'd recommend not loading the brush so much, the "puddling" of wash is a problem if you don't catch it all! Much better to scrape the brush on the edge of the jar and maybe put 2 or even 3 coats on. The effect of many thin coats cannot be overstated, its a technique used by artists for centuries, you end up with a deep, rich and complex colour which, when compared to a single colour, is far superior. You can also add more coats to certain surfaces, which creates similar "simulated 3-D" effects not dissimilar to pre-shading and modulation, and generally created contrasting surfaces and colours. I'm making my filters with thinned down enamels now, they dry quicker, don't tend to separate as much. Am currently loving AK interactive for this job!

 

[colin m]

There are a few videos on youtube that will help. I'm just working my way through them now !

 

[Guest]

I got some oil paints today, two different types.
I bought two tubes of Winston oil paints, Burnt umber and Raw Umber,


Also got a small primary colour set by Steadfast, which had five tubes for £2.99


I have got these small sealable pots, and made up some washes to keep handy, and boy, is it worth paying the extra for quality oil paints!


The winston brand is a thick decent oil paint, mixes really well with turps to make a nice wash.


I then made a white and a mellow sand wash from the steadfast ones, and they're way way different! The oil paint is nowhere near as pigmented, and when mixed, doesn't produce as nice and even colour as the Winston.


So you DO get what you pay for.


One last question, as I'm dumber than a dumb thing, what's the difference between turpentine and white spirit??

Turpentine is an organic substance made from resins, white spirit is an oil based liquid, much cheaper and far less smelly, believe it or not! Also much cheaper. My preference is odourless thinners, more expensive, but much more pleasant to use

 

[Guest]

But I use white spirit to clean brushes, as its much, much cheaper, and it can be done in a well ventilated room, or outdoors!

 

[Guest]

Another option for a thinner is lighter fluid, cheaply available in any Poundshop.


The advantage of this is twofold ; firstly it mixes even cheap oil paints better than white spirit, & secondly it dries much more quickly.