discussion What shade of black for a Lancaster

[stona]

And I'll third that Richard, well said.

There is absolutely no point in replicating what we imagine might have been the exact colours on a small piece of plastic (or anything else) anyway. It's art, not science and as Allyne says, everyone's perception is different.

I'm interested in the research of the paints and preparations used on WW2 aircraft, but don't confuse that with what I put on my models.It's supposed to be fun isn't it? If it looks alright to you, then that's as good as it gets

Some may remember this Spitfire XIV owned by Spencer Flack and flown in a rather snazzy red and white scheme.



At one air show Flack was told that his Spitfire was not in the right colours and should be painted as in WW2. His reply is the stuff of legend.

"And what colour is your Spitfire?"

Enough said!

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Interesting I normally make up my mind as I start each model which colour I am going to use & to amend it as I like it at that moment. This is without reference to what I have produced before.

Just had a look at the WW11 models completed with the grey green & brown camouflage colours. Amazed as they all look the same.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Note: I have corrected a mistake in my post above on the ratios of black to grey. The correct ratio I used is 40%/60% Vallejo Black 71.057/Dark Sea Grey 71.048

Having put the first coat on both wings and a quarter of the fuselage (much bigger areas than my test pieces), it looks to me a little too light. I will finish the first coat of the fuselage with 60%/40% Vallejo Black 71.057/Dark Sea Grey 71.048 and make a decision for the final coat. But, as has been said, it seems the best result is simply to avoid an extreme: too black or too grey.

 

[Guest]

As Laurie mentioned, I found that paint on a large surface such as a wing looks different from when it is on a small test patch. To get the colour that I wanted I eventually settled on 20%/80%Vallejo BlacView attachment 69564 k 71.057/Dark Sea Grey 71.048 (1 part grey and 4 parts black). Its definitely dark but not actually black. I peeled off the masking and was very pleased with the sharp line between black and dark earth/light earth on the fuselage. (I pressed the edge of the tape well down then painted a narrow line of Klear over the edge, to stop bleeding). (The black in the image looks lighter than on the model.)

View attachment 70509


View attachment 183533

 

[stona]

From what I can see there I'd say you've got that very right Steve. I'm looking forward to seeing the whole model!

Cheers

Steve

 

[flyjoe180]

Looks good Steve.

 

[Guest]

I peeled off the masking and was very pleased with the sharp line between black and dark earth/light earth on the fuselage. (I pressed the edge of the tape well down then painted a narrow line of Klear over the edge, to stop bleeding). (The black in the image looks lighter than on the model.)View attachment 69666

A help I have found to mitigate the tendency for any paint to gather on the masked joint, as in the joint between the black & the rest, is to spray the sides of the fuselage with the fuselage upside down ie black in the air. Always a problem here as in some areas you end up with 6 coats of paint.

Laurie

 

[stona]

First make sure that the edge of the masking is well burnished down. An application of Klear or similar, as Steve did, will help but is not always vital. Spray slightly away from the edge of the masking, definitely avoid spraying into it. You don't want to have your airbrush at too big an angle to the subject or you'll just create other problems. I always try and maintain the airbrush close to a right angle with the subject, allowing an arc of maybe 15 degrees. Don't spray too heavy a coat as this will inevitably build up into a ridge along the masking. Number one modelling tool is patience (remember I still use enamel paints)! You can always come back and spray a second, light coat, later.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Just add, to what Steve's info has stated, that before releasing the masking tape. Using not a Morton Blade, as they are thick & not as sharp as supposed, but a razor blade the type with the thick backing. Along the edge just draw it along carefully, not down to the bone, just enough to score a line & the tape come away in impeccable fashion.

Laurie

Just going to start an article on this business of "edges" especially on transparent pieces, ie cockpit covers, as I have not yet produced one which I am relatively proud of let alone damn good.

 

[Guest]

I think that looks pretty good Steve and I'm sure the more you look at it the more pleased with it you will be. I think black and white are two of the most difficult things to achieve realistically in modelling and you have done a pretty good job there.