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What's this for please?

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very not pointless mate,it is similar to a vice and holds the needle tight into the carriage that moves back and forward when you pull back on your trigger.you have to take the end off and unscrew this to remove the needle.
 
Nothing daft there Aidan. Andrew is correct. You have to remove the back of the airbrush (handle in the parts manual) to remove the needle. Once the handle is off you can unscrew the part you arrowed,called the "needle chucking nut". You can then withdraw the needle through the back of the brush.

Be aware that once the needle is removed the trigger can also be lifted out,or fall out. If that happens you will need to remove all the gubbins in the back of the brush (needle chucking guide and auxiliary lever,spring,spring guide) before replacing the trigger and then putting everything back.

It is not at all difficult. I strongly suggest that you have a bash at stripping your airbrush. Every now and then I completely strip my brushes and give them a thorough clean and lubrication. Make sure you remember how it came apart and it will be a doddle to put it back together :)

Finally be careful not to ram the needle back in. You risk damaging your nozzle doing this. I just drop mine in,give it a very gentle twist and tap into the nozzle and nip up the chucking nut. Minimal force required.

There are a few threads and tips on airbrush cleaning and maintenance but don't hesitate to ask if you're not sure about something,better than b*ggering up an airbrush. I have a parts guide saved on my computer but I'm sure I got it from airbrushes.com

Cheers

Steve
 
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OR....you could just use a Paasche Model H:twisted:

Martin
 
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\ said:
Nothing daft there Aidan. Andrew is correct. You have to remove the back of the airbrush (handle in the parts manual) to remove the needle. Once the handle is off you can unscrew the part you arrowed,called the "needle chucking nut". You can then withdraw the needle through the back of the brush.Be aware that once the needle is removed the trigger can also be lifted out,or fall out. If that happens you will need to remove all the gubbins in the back of the brush (needle chucking guide and auxiliary lever,spring,spring guide) before replacing the trigger and then putting everything back.

It is not at all difficult. I strongly suggest that you have a bash at stripping your airbrush. Every now and then I completely strip my brushes and give them a thorough clean and lubrication. Make sure you remember how it came apart and it will be a doddle to put it back together :)

Finally be careful not to ram the needle back in. You risk damaging your nozzle doing this. I just drop mine in,give it a very gentle twist and tap into the nozzle and nip up the chucking nut. Minimal force required.

There are a few threads and tips on airbrush cleaning and maintenance but don't hesitate to ask if you're not sure about something,better than b*ggering up an airbrush. I have a parts guide saved on my computer but I'm sure I got it from airbrushes.com

Cheers

Steve
Thanks for this. I strip my airbrush after every use. I'm wondering what the cutout is for. I am attaching another clearer picture but no arrow.

Aidan

View attachment 54982

View attachment 57180

View attachment 170206
 
\ said:
I strip my airbrush after every use. Aidan
That's very keen Aidan. I have to confess that I just flush mine through between uses. Normally at the end of a project (which can be months!) I'll completely strip and clean the brushes I've used.

I'm an enamel paint user (I did convert to acrylics for a period) and find that this is more than adequate. If something does go wrong then obviously a remedial strip might be needed. I found I had to do much more cleaning with acrylics,I was for ever shoving cellulose soaked inter dental brushes along the paint ways to remove dried on paint!

I'm not trying to start an acrylic versus enamel row,everyone finds what suits them best :)

Cheers

Steve
 
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\ said:
I'm an enamel paint user (I did convert to acrylics for a period) and find that this is more than adequate. If something does go wrong then obviously a remedial strip might be needed. I found I had to do much more cleaning with acrylics,I was for ever shoving cellulose soaked inter dental brushes along the paint ways to remove dried on paint!I'm not trying to start an acrylic versus enamel row,everyone finds what suits them best :)

Cheers

Steve
In my stash I have the Revell London Bus and the colours listed are almost entirely in enamels. This kit is for retirement so hopefully some way off. I'm wondering if enamls give a better gloss finish than acrylics Stona? Do you still have to apply clear varnish? And, like in using acrylics, for a gloss finish, should you spray on matt enamel (can you get matt enamel?) and then use a clear varnish?

Aidan
 
Enamels come in gloss and matt colours. I honestly don't use much gloss as a WW2 aircraft builder. I do use gloss white as I find it covers better. I don't know that enamels give a better gloss finish than acrylics,I can say that I find it easier to achieve with enamels but that's just me. Actually I find them easier to use than acrylics full stop. You may find others disagree :)

I always apply a varnish over my paint work,whatever the desired finish. If I was after a specifically glossy finish I would probably use gloss paints,but still seal them with a gloss varnish.

It's also fair to say that I find myself in a minority as an enamel user. Even old friends who used to use them now use acrylics almost exclusively. Maybe I'm going the way of the dinosaurs.....only slower,unless the Mayans were right!

Cheers

Steve
 
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\ said:
Enamels come in gloss and matt colours. I honestly don't use much gloss as a WW2 aircraft builder. I do use gloss white as I find it covers better. I don't know that enamels give a better gloss finish than acrylics,I can say that I find it easier to achieve with enamels but that's just me. Actually I find them easier to use than acrylics full stop. You may find others disagree :) I always apply a varnish over my paint work,whatever the desired finish. If I was after a specifically glossy finish I would probably use gloss paints,but still seal them with a gloss varnish.

It's also fair to say that I find myself in a minority as an enamel user. Even old friends who used to use them now use acrylics almost exclusively. Maybe I'm going the way of the dinosaurs.....only slower,unless the Mayans were right!

Cheers

Steve
Thank you Steve

Aidan
 
Thread owner
I've decided not to give up on my stupid question. Here is my third attempt at explaining it. Please look at the image I have uploaded here. It's the rear of my airbrush. My first airbrush had ust a cylindrical tube which screwed on to the back. This is the same but, as you can see, it has a cutout giving access to some of the workings of the airbrush. In previous posts in this thread, I have established that I know how to dissemble my airbrush with a view to cleaning and that I do clean it regularly this way. So my question is: why do some manufacturers add this cutout in the casing so as to expose the gubbins?

Aidan

View attachment 55071

View attachment 57269

View attachment 170295
 
I'm guessing but I would say for quick release, you don't have to remove the handle when removing the needle, you should remove the needle from the front to not drag paint back up the airbrush and replace it from the front to protect the tip, doing that you would never need to remove the handle.
 
Thread owner
looking at it on youtube it looks like an easy way to adjust the airflow over the needle for making fine lines http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRQIu-8E0O8,if you watch this the needle goes all the way to the nozzle,i think the one you have makes it easier to adjust the airflow without your fingers getting painted

mobear
 
Thread owner
After a quick search I came up with this from the "Jason Jones Imagery" site :

The airbrush features a cut-away handle with needle preset as well. This is becoming more of a standard feature on airbrushes nowdays and is handy when trying to pull a consistent line repeatedly. Set the handle and your trigger pull is limited to the preset.
Hope this helps. :)
 
In Aidens picture that is the needle chuck nut and not the adjustment screw you would get on some airbrushes or preset handles
 
\ said:
In Aidens picture that is the needle chuck nut and not the adjustment screw you would get on some airbrushes or preset handles
You beat me to it John :)

One of my Iwatas has a similar cut away "handle". I think it might be either an aesthetic/design feature or possibly a weight/balance consideration.

Cheers

Steve
 
Thread owner
Thanks for all of your replies.

I remove the needle from the rear and insert it from the front, thus protecting the sharp end. In that case therefore, the cutout would not facilitate quick access because I'd always have to remove the end with the cutout first. I guess I could change my ways.....

Oh well!

Aidan
 
Hi Aidan,I think I'm right in saying that the cut out handle enables the

user to pull the needle right back away from the nozzle to give a quick

blast through if it seems to blocking and affecting performance, particularly

when using acrylics which dry quickly,hope I'm right. John
 
Thread owner
Thanks John but I'm not too sure. There is not enough room in the cutout to get at the needle to pull it back and I would certainly have to take the end off so as to push to needle back again.

I'm going to email the manufacturers to ask.

AVB
 
Hi Aidan,there is enough room,I use it myself. Grip the chucking nut in finger and

thumb,pull back as far as it will go and give it a blast, preferably away from your

model when you let go the needle is spring loaded and will go back in position.

If you want information about Iwata products give the Airbrush company a ring

Airbrushes.com main suppliers of iwata and very helpful. John
 
\ said:
I've decided not to give up on my stupid question. Here is my third attempt at explaining it. Please look at the image I have uploaded here. It's the rear of my airbrush. My first airbrush had ust a cylindrical tube which screwed on to the back. This is the same but, as you can see, it has a cutout giving access to some of the workings of the airbrush. In previous posts in this thread, I have established that I know how to dissemble my airbrush with a view to cleaning and that I do clean it regularly this way. So my question is: why do some manufacturers add this cutout in the casing so as to expose the gubbins?Aidan

View attachment 55071
i have iwata eclipse airbrush if you unscrew this nut you can take the needle out the front of the airbrush its so you dont have to take apart all the airbrush very handy for a quick clean..and put the needle back in so you dont damage the business end
 
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