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Wonwings Diary-a blog with a difference.

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I thought that was the gist of it, and it does make sense now.

A picture does, definately, say a thousand words. Many thanks for your time and patience, as always.

It makes me wonder if there is a demand for a list of aircraft related expressions and definitions. There seem to be so many terms used that a lot of us my not know just what the correct understanding is.

Maybe I could put together a similar one for ships, might help people to tell the differrence between a Shear Strake and a Bulwark Stay!
 
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There have been a few 'Glossary of terms' done here in the past,aviation related ones cover a vast area that needs to be broken down but I am always happy to answer any individual questions.

Richard,as a landlubber I would welcome a listing of say basic nautical terms,that would be really useful to a lot of people.
 
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Wonwings diary-All about Engineers-Part 1.

For those of you who have difficulty understanding us engineers, here’s a short series of lessons. (obviously, some engineers are more engineer like than others!)


The definition of an engineer:

Someone who solves a problem you didn't know you had, in a way you don't understand.

YOU MIGHT BE AN ENGINEER IF...

· You take a cruise so you can go on a personal tour of the engine room.

· The people at the computer store can't answer any of your questions.

· At the air show, you know how fast the skydivers are falling.

· You can quote scenes from any Monty Python movie.

· You can type 70 words a minute but can't read your own handwriting.

· You see a good design and still have to change it.

· Your spouse doesn't have the foggiest idea of what you do at work.

· You've ever tried to repair a $5.00 radio.


Comprehending Engineers

Two engineering students were walking across campus when one said, "Where did you get such a great bike?"

The second engineer replied, "Well, I was walking along yesterday minding my own business when a beautiful woman rode up on this bike.

She threw the bike to the ground, took off all her clothes and said, 'Take what you want.'"

The second engineer nodded approvingly, "Good choice; the clothes probably wouldn't have fit."

Comprehending Engineers

To the optimist, the glass is half full.

To the pessimist, the glass is half empty.

To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

Comprehending Engineers

A pastor, a doctor and an engineer were waiting one morning for a particularly slow group of golfers. The engineer fumed, "What's with these guys? We must have been waiting for 15 minutes!"

The doctor chimed in, "I don't know, but I've never seen such ineptitude!"

The pastor said, "Hey, here comes the green keeper. Let's have a word with him."

"Hi George. Say, what's with that group ahead of us? They're rather slow, aren't they?"

The green keeper replied, "Oh, yes, that's a group of blind fire-fighters. They lost their sight saving our clubhouse from a fire last year, so we always let them play for free anytime."

The group was silent for a moment. The pastor said, "That's so sad. I think I will say a special prayer for them tonight."

The doctor said, "Good idea. And I'm going to contact my ophthalmologist buddy and see if there's anything he can do for them."

The engineer said, "Why can't these guys play at night?"

Comprehending Engineers

(This is actually true!) There was an engineer who had an exceptional gift for fixing all things mechanical.

After serving his company loyally for over 30 years, he happily retired.

Several years later the company contacted him regarding a seemingly impossible problem they were having with one of their multimillion-dollar jet engines. They had tried everything and everyone else to get the engine to work but to no avail.

In desperation, they called on the retired engineer who had solved so many of their problems in the past. The engineer reluctantly took the challenge. He spent two weeks studying the drawings for the design, and then he spent a day studying the huge engine. At the end of the day, he marked a small 'x' in chalk on a particular component of the engine and stated, "This is where your problem is".

The part was replaced and the machine worked perfectly again.

The company received a bill for $50,000 from the engineer for his service. They demanded an itemised accounting of his charges. The engineer responded briefly:

One chalk mark $1

Knowing where to put it $49,999

It was paid in full and the engineer retired again in peace.

Comprehending Engineers

What's the difference between Mechanical Engineers and Civil Engineers?

Mechanical Engineers build weapons, Civil Engineers build targets.

Comprehending Engineers

Three engineering students were gathered together discussing the possible designers of the human body.

One said, "It was a mechanical engineer. Just look at all the joints."

Another said, "No, it was an electrical engineer. The nervous system has many thousands of electrical connections." The last said, "Actually it was a civil engineer. Who else would run a toxic waste pipeline through a recreational area?"

 
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Wonwings diary-All about Engineers-Part 2


Comprehending Engineers

Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet.

Scott Adams, The Dilbert Principle

Comprehending Engineers

An architect, an artist and an engineer were discussing whether it was better to spend time with the wife or a mistress. The architect said he enjoyed time with his wife, building a solid foundation for an enduring relationship. The artist said he enjoyed time with his mistress, because of the passion and mystery he found there.

The engineer said, "I like both." "Both?" the others asked. The

engineer: "Yeah. If you have a wife and a mistress, they will each assume you are spending time with the other woman, and you can go to the lab and get some work done."

Comprehending Engineers

An engineer was crossing a road one day when a frog called out to him and said, "If you kiss me, I'll turn into a beautiful princess."

He bent over, picked up the frog and put it in his pocket. The frog spoke up again and said, "If you kiss me and turn me back into a beautiful princess, I will stay with you for one week." The engineer took the frog out of his pocket, smiled at it and returned it to the pocket. The frog then cried out, "If you kiss me and turn me back into a princess, I'll stay with you and do ANYTHING you want."

Again the engineer took the frog out, smiled at it and put it back into his pocket. Finally, the frog asked, "What is the matter? I've told you I'm a beautiful princess, that I'll stay with you for a week and do anything you want. Why won't you kiss me?" The engineer said, "Look I'm an engineer. I don't have time for a girlfriend, but a talking frog, now that's cool."

 
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Wonwings diary-Working with resin & Photoetch parts.

The following are some notes about working with resin and photoetched parts. They may help you if you are new to working with them and even the most experienced modellers should take note of the safety precautions at the bottom of the page.

Photoetch is very fine. To remove it from the fret without damaging the individual parts, place the fret in a ziplock bag and seal it. Place the bag on a ceramic tile or large piece of toughened glass (this gives a much firmer cutting surface). Using a new, SHARP blade in your hobby knife, place the blade on the section of fret that you wish to cut. Rocking the blade backwards and forwards gently, slowly cut through the plastic bag and through the fret. The plastic bag lets you see what you are doing and yet contains any parts that may wish to go "Boing" and leap off the workbench.

When working with resin and photo-etch, your best choices in glues are superglues or epoxy glues. Experiment to find which works best for you and your modelling methods; super glue with an accelerator (use the super glue and accelerator to "tack" parts together, then use more super glue and allow to cure), plain superglue, 5 minute epoxy or the slow-setting epoxy.

Note that if you want to create a rounded effect on a piece of flat photo-etch then white glue can be used to build up a slight curve on the surface. Resin is softer than styrene. Remove any flash with a sharp hobby knife is possible. Use progressively finer sand paper to get a smooth finish on your kit. Sand carefully and check your progress often - it's easier to sand too far than on a plastic kit. Files should be used with EXTREME caution as they can leave marks in the resin which you will then have to fill and then sand out again ...

Washing all the resin pieces in detergent and giving them a good scrubbing with a toothbrush helps get rid of the silicone mold release compound, any greasy fingermarks and any leftover dust from the sanding. You'll get a better result from your painting if you don't skimp on this step.

Remember - resin dust can build up in your lungs and create all sorts of health problems. To prevent this, do as much wet-sanding as possible or sand outdoors wearing a good dust mask,do not take any risks with these materials,also beware small parts can fly anywhere,watch your eyes,if do not wear spectacles then use a pair of goggles,Proops sell useful ones that have crystal clear lenses,even ones that magify if you can get used to them as well.

As always use cyno adhesives with care,make sure that when you remove the spout that there is no pressure build up inside the bottle,just take great care with all tools and materials that you use.

 
well said wonwinglo !

and i must just add again ,

i dont think any of us modellers should ever use cyno adhesives without having a bottle of debonder to hand,

available in most hobby stores and DIY hypermarkets and from screwfix its a must - put it in the model room or by the first aid kit,

over the years i have seen too many silly little incidents with cyno when working on models, the debonder will not only release skin, but it also allows you to remove it from clothing, and to assist you to remove unwanted glue from parts

cyno is harmful and excesses on the skin is not good, have some debonder to hand for your health's sake !
 
As per usal barry, this blog is a delight to read! ! ! ! ! !

When you say to use files, i have used a file on resin before, it was a small boots nail file so was extra fine and worked a treat. Obviously no good for small parts, but for larger areas like wing tips its great!

and for the record, i can work out sky diving, have mended radios and ive worked on boat engines yet i still dont know the difference between an inch and a cm!
 
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Wonwings diary-A collection is born-How we tackled a collection of soldiers.

Some two years ago my good wife started to collect the Medieval Warriors lead soldiers,which appeared as a weekly part works done by Del Prado,like all of these things there were constant problems and flustrations,missing models that had to be chased up especially over holiday periods,damaged models that had been vandalised by the distributors by placing huge piles of newspapers on top of them and a seemingly general dis-regard for the customer which has already been covered elsewhere here,anyway as the collection grew yet another series appeared called 'Modern Army' these exquisite little miniatures were not only highly detailed but very well painted,at £7 for each issue they needed to be.At that time we did not have a clue as to how or when they would be displayed,and several cardboard boxes were deposited in my modelling den ?

After a while the Medieval Warriors were nearing their end with only a few models outstanding,the others will run until early 2007 so there is a while to go yet on those.

Anyway the decision had to be made as to what to use to store and above all display these beauties,we looked everywhere for suitable cabinets but either they were too big for our modest little house,or somehow did not look quite right ? one day one of those junk mail leaflets came through the door,and low and behold what looked like a suitable cabinet,it had five glass toughened shelves and was available at a price of £195 plus £20 carriage,a lot of money but what was the alternative ? to keep them and possibly get them damaged in boxes or invest in this cabinet,anyway after a three week wait the cabinet arrived,horror of horrors it was a very flat,flat pack with bag after bag of fittings worthy of a section in a DIY shop ! I have never in all my born days assembled anything so complicated or awkward or with such useless instructions for that matter,after a day of wrestling,grunting and swearing it assembled into a tall cabinet with a very fragile looking door,that door nearly gave me an heart attack as I screwed the fittings into the glass very gingerly and with great care,the total results with the soldiers now well and truly installed is shown below,I intend to get two more shelves cut from the correct toughened glass with bevelled edges,there is still enough room for the remaing figures,and despite the hassle the results are quite pleasing-

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The heavy mounted figures are on the bottom to give some stability to the cabninet,the whole thing is safely screwed to the wall.

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The Modern Army series with about another 40 models to go.

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The Medieval Warriors on display,real works of art.

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Overall view of the cabinet which has a diffused lighting system,this really brings the models to life.

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My aeroplanes are banned from the soldier cabinet,I have to make do with an old antique cabinet which has been in my possession for a few years now,these are all diecasts.
 
Barry,

The thing that is disturbing me most is that I can relate to just about all of your "Comprehending Engineers", in fact I agree with most and can say I have been involved in a disturbing number of them!!

Great reading though, many thanks, these will provide a bit of entertainment on the ship when I get back.
 
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***Squiffy,if you go to a motorists accessory shop ask for a 'Points file' these useful little gadgets,are used to remove the pip that builds up on the old mechanical points sets in cars and on motor cycles,they are very fine and ideal for use with resin parts,also another trick is to stick fine emery cloth onto those lolly type sticks,you can buy emery cloth on rolls from an old hardware shop if you have one nearby ? nail files are ok but they tend to clog up a bit,to renove the debris simply place sticky tape on the file,rub with your finger and pull sharply away.

As per usal barry, this blog is a delight to read! ! ! ! ! !When you say to use files, i have used a file on resin before, it was a small boots nail file so was extra fine and worked a treat. Obviously no good for small parts, but for larger areas like wing tips its great!

and for the record, i can work out sky diving, have mended radios and ive worked on boat engines yet i still dont know the difference between an inch and a cm!
 
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Wonwings diary-Building from plans-Part 6

Before we even think about building that dream model you will need to start with a scale plan,there are thousands of plans available in books,magazines and best of all here on the internet,dont worry if the drawing is far too small for your needs as any drawing can be easily scaled up either by photographic means or good old fashioned dividers,a roll of lining paper and a lead pencil.

Here is a selection of scale drawings to inspire and hopefully make you reach for the building board,the subject matter is both exciting and with a few alterations as compromise to getting the model to fly should keep you busy for a while,select a subject,scale it up as a line drawing and then plot a few formers,once the initial keel is laid then your interest increases threefold and you can dream of flying your own unique scale model,so what are we waiting for take a look at this little lot-

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Bristol M.1C, I can vouch that this one flies well,if you want a lovely barrel shaped design that looks unusual in flight then this one takes some beating,the wing can be made to lift away from the centre section and bolted into place,make sure that you add undercamber to the wing on this one.

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Aerocar.For anyone looking for something a bit unusual and a challenge then the Aerocar is for you,how about making it roadable as a model as well ?

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Armstrong Whitworth Albermarle.

This one would make an ideal electric twin.

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Airspeed Ambassador.

The beautiful Ambassador or Elizabethan class when in BEA service,planked fuselage would be ideal or why not carve from a log of blue foam ?

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Antonov AN-74-TK,Would make an unusual PSS design.

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Hawker Siddeley Andover.

Another electric possibility ?
 
Squiffy,

The difference between an inch and a centimeter is 1.54 centimeters.
 
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Wonwings diary-Building from plans-Part 7

Here we continue with a diversity of designs each one a challenge in itself,the drawings are shown for inspiration and set the modeller a challenge,and as such are worthy of further research,dont forget that multi engined reliabilty is assured with electric flight,gone are the days when we entered into these subjects with trepidation due to un-relible engines that could quit causing models to spin in quickly if not checked,many of these could easily be made to manageable sizes to fit your car,small motors and prop combinations abound and are both pwerful and lightweight,couple that wth lithium power and the sky is your limit,lets take a look at what we today-

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Armstrong Whitworth AW.650 Argosy.

Twin boomed and plenty of fuselage space to place the most bulky of batteries,hand launch no need for any fiddly undercarriage.

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Avro Canada Arrow.

Sleek challenge for PSS,catapult launched glider.

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Avro Canada CF-100 Canuck.

Another golden oldie,for a real challenge why not twin electric ducted fan units ?

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C-133 Cargomaster.

The Cargomaster is under modelled,but just look at that tall fin,a very stable design.

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Caribou.

Ugly to some but so full of character,imagine turning up at your local field with one of these under your arm ?

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PBY-5A CATALINA

The Catalina is just asking to be built as a model subject.A blue foam log for the hull with built up wings perhaps ?

All of these subjects would make for exciting models,and above all just that little bit different.
 
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Wonwings diary-Building from plans-Building with Blue Foam-Part 8

Mention of blue foam log construction has prompted a few enquiries from you,so before we proceed any further lets just discuss this useful process,there are times when complex shapes are time consuming to produce in traditional wooden keel,former,planked construction,with the advent of remarkable building insulation foams this has brought with it a material that needs to be explored and experimented with by the model builder,its good points are that it offers light weight throughout, coupled with the ability to be under shaped in tricky areas,ie engine intakes and area ruling on modern jet types,the modeller instantly becomes a sculptor overnight in his own right and the shape process spurs you on to get the model completed.Basically we use builders blue insulation foam,check in your yellow pages and sort out your local dealer,go along and take a ripsaw with you,you will need to rip through the panels before they go into your car ! do not put them onto your roof rack otherwise you will loose them,the panels are huge so need cutting down into manageable panels,best place to store them out of the way is in the roof of your garage.

The very first job is to make a side view template of the fuselage, in the case of the model aircraft here,boats and cars receive similar treatment,make this from coloured sugar paper or similar coloured card,the reason for this is that it forms the constant centre datum of your 'log' whatever carving you do the centreline will always be present,glue the pieces together with Aliphaetic resin glue,you can also use PVA but this will take longer to set as air drying is difficult and slow between the tight laminations,you can use balsa dowels if you wish,but this is not necessary,a black marker pen is used to mark any important areas,add plenty of datums,even pieces of wood can be tacked into place to guide your eventual carving.Do all cutting outside as this stuff gets everywhere clinging to everything in your workshop,wear old clothes and nothing that attracts too much static,a boiler suit is fine,prepare yourself for a big sweepup later and a blue lawn ! having said this the work and mess is worth the effort,a quick water spray settles the debris we just have to live with the inconvenience,wear goggles to protect your eyes from flying debris.

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The next process is to shape the log using the cross sections provided on your plan,have plenty of photographs to hand also so you know exactly what needs taking off,the best tools are as follows- a bread knife,surform woodworkers tool,a clean new wire brush,sharp long knife blades such as the Stanley 2901 series,a keyhole saw and a sharp razor saw,lets explain each tool and its use;the bread kife will hack through large areas of the block,the surform is your best friend and will happily rip through the largest of chunks of foam,the wire brush is uncanny,by striking the foam or stroking it you will quickly realise its potential,the carve up process is very theraputic as the shape takes place before you,the long knife blade will enable you to get into the corners such as the intakes,the keyhole saw will deal with internal area removal,simply push the blade straight into the foam and draw back and forth,the razor saw makes nice clean cuts on the final clean up.

Use the roughest carborundum paper to achieve the shape after major cutting with wire brush/saw/knife,the trick is to go from left to right with the sanding block and cut the top off the beads of foam,a bit difficult to explain but you will soon get the idea in actual use,note from the picture below that any formers,spars or inserts are simply slid into place at this stage,do not glue anything yet ! they will just serve to get everything in line,speking of which can you still see the edge of that coloured paper ? clever eh ! you will never loose that crucial datum point.

So we now have in front of us a well shaped lump of blue foam,note how light it is ? but wait a minute we have not even started to remove the surplus weight,tomorrow I will explain how to finish the log properly and get the most from blue foam consruction,see you here.

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Wonwings diary-Building from plans-Part 9-Blue Foam construction.

We can now deal with thinning out the fuselage shell, to save even more precious weight and preparing it for finishing and fitting out.The Blue foam laminations would have been lightly glued together at the centre datum point,in between this would be a coloured piece of paper that constantly confirms the centreline no matter how much sanding or cutting is done,the next job is to take a blade and split open the two halves,ease a wide pastry knife between the blocks and gently rock the two foam cores apart,the paper will have done its job and is no longer required but even now it will aid separation of the cores.Once this has been done you can clean up the flat surfaces with a large Permagrit block,next take a marker pen and draw a line right along the edge of the fuselage sides,within this area is where we will be scooping out any surplus foam,start by taking a knife blade and running this around the marker pen line,this will enable a clean line as the inner debris is parred away that butts up to this cut,the best tool to use is your trusty clean wire brush,gently pull and stroke the foam from nose to tail,soon you will get the idea as the beads come away,we are not aiming for precision because you will not get it with any foam,the aim is to remove dead weight that has no purpose,the more you remove the better the model will fly,gently finish off with coarse glasspaper glued around an half round piece of wood,once again a simple dragging action will prove the best.

Once you are satisfied that the two halves are as good as you can get them now is the time to make up some inner formers,you will almost certainly need one for the nose of the aircraft,one just aft of the wing trailing edge,and one forward of this,to arrive at the shape obtain a carpet fitters shape tool,this looks like dozens of wire pieces that when pressed into the concave produce an exact pattern of the shape.Simply draw around the patterns straight onto some wood,cut out the formers and check fit into position,once you are happy then fix them into place with a glue gun,this is adequate for everything except the front former which should be fixed with epoxy,we use the glue gun for two reasons,one it is convenient and sticks well and quickly,two it is lighter than epoxy adhesive which is heavy and should be used with care and for consideration of the weight penalty it carries.

Regarding the formers you can use either laminated balsa sheet,or liteply both are ideal.

Control runs can be positioned into the formers using snakes,these can be locked into place with the glue gun,make sure that they exit cleanly with the minimum of bends,best to install things such as this now while you have good acces,even doing the job whilst the halves are unglued together.

Other considerations are the positions of the tailplane and fin,mark and cut the slots now at this stage checking the angles very carefully,the nose bulkhead needs careful treatment,make balsa fillets at the back of this crucial former and glue well,if necessary add any blind mounting nuts for the engine bearers,PSS soarers simply need an hard balsa block cut to shape and sanded to blend into the shape of the fuselge.

If the model has a cockpit,cut away at that point and fair in the sides with medium sheet balsa,for this job use PVA or Aliphaetic adhesive holding in place and tacking with the glue gun,servo rails can also be made up from quarter square hard balsa with basswood cross pieces to take the servo mounting screws.Once everything is installed do a dry run on the two sides,then apply PVA or Aliphaetic and bind firmly together with masking tape,leave for at least 48 hours to throughly dry out.
 
Hi all, I’d like to say how much I’m enjoying these blogs and all the responses and what a personal touch they give to an already friendly forum.

But Barry, if I can cobble together my beautiful Bebe, (beauty being in the eye of the beholder of course!), from a couple of bits of paper and an instruction set which comprises ‘the fuselage is best built as two box units’, then you CAN play the guitar, and here’s how:

1)Select a favourite song/tune that you and those around you can stand to hear about a million times. (no Hendrix just yet!).

2)Obtain, or in your case build from scrap balsa, a suitable guitar for the tune selected.

3)Contact me and I’ll have you playing and your fingers bleeding in no time.

Steve.
 
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***Steve,thank you for your kind comments,yes Scale-models goes from strength to strength and make no mistake that is thanks to people like yourself here,it is hard to believe that my first tentative posts were made to assist a friend who introduced me to this forum a few years ago,the rest is history,Scale-models has become a family of friends over that short time,a community in its own right,we have John to thank for the foresight in establishing and providing the tools for what you see here today,it runs like silk because everyone involved enjoys the company of fellow enthusiasts,and how diverse those interests are,and thank you for your offer which is much appreciated,one day I may just take you up on it.

Hi all, I’d like to say how much I’m enjoying these blogs and all the responses and what a personal touch they give to an already friendly forum.But Barry, if I can cobble together my beautiful Bebe, (beauty being in the eye of the beholder of course!), from a couple of bits of paper and an instruction set which comprises ‘the fuselage is best built as two box units’, then you CAN play the guitar, and here’s how:

1)Select a favourite song/tune that you and those around you can stand to hear about a million times. (no Hendrix just yet!).

2)Obtain, or in your case build from scrap balsa, a suitable guitar for the tune selected.

3)Contact me and I’ll have you playing and your fingers bleeding in no time.

Steve.
 
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Wonwings diary-Anniversary of one the most beautiful aircraft ever designed.

The design of the Spitfire is now 75 Years old.On 5th March 2006 which is the 75th Anniversary of the design of the Spitfire,there will be a display of Spitfire aircraft held at Eastleigh ( now called Southampton ) airfield,to commemorate this important event at 16.30 hours a Spitfire will take off exactly to the day and time when she made her very first flight from this historic place.

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K5054 the original Spitfire 1 Prototype seen at Eastleigh in 1936,the aircraft was finished in a turquoise green shade but was soon to be finished in a shadow shade finish of dark earth and green,even then this did not disguise its beautiful lines.

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Whilst the prototype has long since gone,a replica was built of this machine using wood,although this aircraft is no longer airworthy it travels around the country on show,it is hoped to have this particular aircraft on display at Eastleigh at the anniversary event in March 2006.

Reginald J.Mitchell developed a racing seaplane, the Supermarine S6B, which won the Schneider Trophy on 13th September, 1931. During the contest the aircraft reached 340 mph (547 km/h).

In 1934 the Air Ministry announced that it was looking for a new fighter aircraft. Mitchell, whose company was now part of Vickers Aviation, decided to adapt his Supermarine seaplane, in an attempt to meet the requirements of the R.A.F.

The new all-metal single-seater fighter plane, the Supermarine Spitfire Mk. I, had several technical features of the earlier racing seaplane. It had the same structure and aerodynamic lines. However, it had a new engine, the 1,030 hp Rolls Royce Merlin II and carried 8 machine-guns.

The first Spitfire prototype appeared on 5th March, 1936 and flew at 350 mph (563 km/h) and could ascend at approximately 2,500 ft (762 m) per minute. With its slender aerodynmamic lines and elliptical-plan wings, it was claimed at the time, to be the smallest and cleanest aircraft that could be constructed around a man and an engine.

The R.A.F was impressed with its performance and in June, 1936, it ordered 310 aircraft. The Supermarine Spitfire Mk. I went into production in 1937 and was operational in June, 1938. Vickers Aviation could not keep up with demand and most of Britain's manufacturers began building Spitfires. By October, 1939, the Air Ministry had ordered over 4,000 of these aeroplanes.

The Supermarine Spitfire Mk. II went into service in late 1940. These had a 1,150 hp Rolls Royce Merlin XII engine. Other versions appeared throughout the Second World War .This included Spitfire Mk. IV that was a photographic reconnaissance aircraft. The Spitfire Mk. VC was the first model to be used as a fighter-bomber and carried 500 pounds (226 kg) of bombs.

At the beginning of the Battle of Britain the R.A.F had 32 squadrons of Hawker Hurricanes and 19 squadrons equipped with Spitfire. It was decided to use the Hurricanes against the massive bomber formations of the Luftwaffe whereas the Spitfires were employed against German fighters.

This Luftwaffe outnumbered the R.A.F by four to one. However, the British had the advantage of being closer to their airfields. German fighters could only stay over England for about half an hour before flying back to their home bases. The RAF also had the benefits of an effective early warning radar system and the intelligence information provided by Ultra.

The Focke Wulf 190, which appeared in July 1941, was superior to the Spitfire being used by the R.A.F at the time but this changed with the production of the Supermarine Spitfire Mk. XIV . Powered by a Rolls-Royce Griffon 65, 12-cylinder, 2,050 hp engine, it could reach a speed of 448 mph (721 km/h) and could reach a ceiling of 44,500 ft (13,560 m) and had a range of 460 miles (740 km). It had two 20 mm cannons; four machine-guns; 1,000 lb (454 kg) of bombs.

The Spitfire was constantly improved during the Second World War.The Supermarine Spitfire F.22 that was used in 1945 could fly at more than 450 mph (724 km/h) and could ascend at twice the speed of the Supermarine Spitfire Mk. I.

Spitfires continued to be produced after the war and by October 1947, 20,334 had been manufactured. The last operational flight of a Spitfire, the Spitfire PR-19, took place on 1st April, 1954.
 
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Wonwings diary-Anniversary of one of the most beautiful aircraft ever designed-Part 2

One of the best appraisals of how the Spitfire flew can be attributed to Douglas Bader,this is what he wrote about this beautiful but functional aircraft-

The Spitfire looked good and was good. But my first reaction was that it was bad for handling on the ground; its long straight nose, uptilted when the tail wheel was on the ground; its long straight nose, uptilted when the tail wheel was on the ground, made taxing difficult since it was not easy to see ahead. It was necessary to to swing from side to side to look in front. The view at take-off was restricted in the same way until you were travelling fast enough to lift the tail; only then could you see over the nose.

Once accustomed to these minor inconveniences, they were no longer apparent, and once in the air, you felt in the first few minutes that here was the aeroplane par excellence. The controls were light, positive and synchronized; in fact, the aeroplane of one's dreams. It was stable; it flew hands and feet off; yet you could move it quickly and effortlessly into any attitude. You brought it in to land at 75 mph and touched down at 60-65 mph. Its maximum speed was 367 mph. You thus had a wide speed range which has not been equalled before or since.

It had eight machine guns of .303 calibre each, mounted four in each wing. The guns were spaced one close to the fuselage, two mid-wing, one further out. The eight guns were normally synchronized to 250 yards. In other words the four in each wing were sighted so that the bullets from all eight converged at that distance, in front of the Spitfire. Experienced fighter pilots used to close the pattern to 200 yards. The successful pilots succeeded because they did not open fire until they were close to the target.

By the 19th August 1939 the following units had received their Spitfire Mk I's and were also operational:-

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19 Sqn Duxford

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66 Sqn Duxford

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41 Sqn Catterick

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74 Sqn Hornchurch

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54 Sqn Hornchurch

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65 Sqn Hornchurch

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72 Sqn Churchfenton

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602 Sqn Abbotsinch

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611 Sqn Speke

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609 Sqn Yeadon

K5054 Prototype Spitfire 1

ENGINE

Merlin II (gave 990 hp at 12,000 ft)

WING SPAN

37' 8"

LENGTH

29' 11"

HEIGHT

8' 2 1/2"

WEIGHT

AUW 5,200 lb TARE 5,034 lb

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