Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker B Trumpeter Scale 1:32

[arb65912]

Hello again, I am NOT gone or nor I quit. :tears-of-joy: :nerd: :nerd:
New updates.

Marked the places where cross sections are in Blender for my X-Plane simulator model.
On the screenshot you see the started work in Blender.
Fun, just needs a lot of time to make it look good, just like in scale modeling (for a newbie like me) :smiling:

I had to put putty into the nose cone and fuselage gaps and there is also a big step between them height wise.
I am not sure how I will handle that as far as sanding, we will see. Keep your fingers crossed. :cold-sweat:

[arb65912]

Time for QUESTIONS for my gurus.

I. I got this Eduard masks, see screenshots. How do I separate them as the lines are barely visible? is there any special technique for it?
As some of you know, my canopy is broken in pieces and glued together so no matter what I do cracks after gluing it together will be visible which gives me no option but do something not usual.
I bought these masks just for practicing but have no idea how to use them, I mean separating them from sheet and putting on canopy.

2. Any ideas what I can do with that broken/glued canopy?
Should I sand it, so it is almost opaque?

[arb65912]

Another QUESTION: :cold-sweat:

After I sanded the joint and saw the result, I could put more putty and sand again, but height difference is so big that I would have to put putty on more area and cover more panel lines and rivets which I do not think I should do.

Actually, I think it does not look TOO bad so I might just leave it as is, but I have a QUESTION:

I have that panel lines tool from Tamiya, but it seems to that it would work only on long, straight lines.
How do I do these tiny and curved ones?

Rivets, I will just try to use the drill bits I have and see.

Please, let me know and wish me luck. :smiling::nerd::tongue-out3:

[Tim Marlow]

For curved lines and rivets I would use an engineers scriber.

I have a Tamiya panel line scriber, but don’t find it that useful for rescribing panel lines.
One for the future, I would also have cleaned out those areas with the scriber before the putty had set. It will still work now, it’s just easier when the putty is soft.
Not sure what the others would do.

[adt70hk]

Hi Andrzej

Sorry can't help with the broken canopy but in terms of the masks I used them for the first time the other week and had the same issue.

In the end I bent them gently in a curve to create a slight gap and then gently used a scalpel blade to lift them off.

ATB.

Andrew

[stillp]

In the end I bent them gently in a curve to create a slight gap and then gently used a scalpel blade to lift them off.

Same here, bend the backing sheet and the edges of the masks will appear.

For the canopy, I would try gluing it back together with Pledge or with a clear-setting PVA glue. If that doesn't work you can soak it in water to remove it and try something else - you have nothing to lose!
Pete

[arb65912]

For curved lines and rivets I would use an engineers scriber.

I have a Tamiya panel line scriber, but don’t find it that useful for rescribing panel lines.
One for the future, I would also have cleaned out those areas with the scriber before the putty had set. It will still work now, it’s just easier when the putty is soft.
Not sure what the others would do.

Thank you, Tim. Will look for some more proper tools.

[arb65912]

Hi Andrzej

Sorry can't help with the broken canopy but in terms of the masks I used them for the first time the other week and had the same issue.

In the end I bent them gently in a curve to create a slight gap and then gently used a scalpel blade to lift them off.

ATB.

Andrew

Thank you, Andrew. Great tip. Will give it a try.

[arb65912]

Same here, bend the backing sheet and the edges of the masks will appear.

For the canopy, I would try gluing it back together with Pledge or with a clear-setting PVA glue. If that doesn't work you can soak it in water to remove it and try something else - you have nothing to lose!
Pete

Hi Pete, thanks!
Canopy unfortunately is already glued together.
What I am looking for is a solution on final finish, paint it opaque, paint is semi clear, sand so it looks like the matte glass or just polish and leave glued seams visible.

[stillp]

Oh, okay. I think I'd paint it gloss black.
Pete

[Tim Marlow]

Depends if you want to see inside it really Andrzej. Personally I’d go with polished first and see what it looks like. If you want to paint it, try something like this…..

Much more interesting than a single colour.

[arb65912]

Thank you, Gentlemen! :smiling:

I think I will polish it, see what it looks like and then I can always paint it.

[arb65912]

QUESTION:

I have re-scribed the panel lines and rivets but of course made panel lines too deep now. :sad-face:

I want to apply putty, but I do want to apply ONLY over these deep panel lines so I cannot use Tamiya one.
I need a putty that would be softer a bit than plastic and not "biting" into plastic like Tamiya one.

What would you recommend?

[Guest]

You can thin putty from a tube using liquid cement, and then you can brush it on. This, of course, will ruin the brush so use an old one (which, TBH, I kind of doubt you have ). You could clean the brush with more liquid cement, but you would probably use most of a bottle to do that, so if you can get hold of some of the chemicals that make up typical liquid cement then you could use that instead, both to thin the putty and to clean the brush.

Alternatively, there are very thin putties you can buy, designed for brush-painting, but I don’t remember any names right now …

[stillp]

Can you get the Mr Hobby range over there? If so then you could use Mr Surfacer 500 or Mr Dissolved Putty, both of which are brushable. Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials or Vallejo Plastic Putty can be thinned with water to make them brushable.
Pete