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Not a Moment to Lose… Battle of the Bulge, Ardennes, December 1944

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  • TIM FORSTER
    • Apr 2018
    • 291
    • TIM
    • LONDON, UK

    #181
    Bring on the vehicles...

    Sdkfz 250/1 Ausf B 'Neu'

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    I have to admit that I have long had a soft spot for the Sd.Kfz 250 and the late Ausf B version in particular. It tends to be overshadowed by its much larger cousin the 251, but with its short length and snub nose there is something almost cute about it!

    When I was last modelling back in the 80s, when the only kits available were the early Ausf A versions by Tamiya (notably Rommel’s famous ‘Grief’ 250/3 variant with the frame antenna), I even contemplated a partial scratchbuild. Luckily in 1998 Dragon finally got around filling the gap.

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    The kit I used was actually the Dragon 250/8 which I found second hand at IPMS Scale Model World in Telford a few of years back. Since the kit also includes all the parts for the original 250/1, this didn’t matter (apart from the decals as I later found out).

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    I also sourced some photoetch from both Royal Model and Aber. Some people hate PE and, if I am honest, I would rather avoid it - but sometimes there is nothing that looks as good. I usually buy two sets from different manufacturers so that I have more than one choice when it comes to tricky parts: there’s usually one that’s easier or simpler (and it’s almost never Aber).

    The one place where I think all of the late model 250 kits let themselves down is on the upper side armour. This is far too thick. The real vehicle actually had fairly thin side plates bolstered with internal armour panels. The side vision slits are also poorly defined.

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    For this reason I highly recommend the Aber set. This is actually etched into thicker metal than their usual sets and it fits the Dragon, etc kit parts really well. The only minor surgery required is to separate the old upper armour from the bonnet.

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    Opened-topped vehicles are always a challenge because there is so much detail and nowhere to hide, but the late 250 is also very crowded.

    Surprisingly there is also a lack of reliable information about what the interior actually looks like. For a vehicle that was built in the 3,000+ range there are remarkably few surviving examples of the late 250/1 variant and those that I have found on line are often heavily restored. There are a lot of fine factory interior shots of the early (Ausf A / ‘Alt’) versions of the 250 taken by the Germans during manufacture, but none for the later model. Perhaps they didn’t bother keeping these sorts of meticulous records later in the war (they had other things to think about) - or the archives are now lost. Two useful reference books are:

    Panzer Tracts No.15-1: Le.s.p.w. (Sd.kfz.250) Ausf.a & B by Hilary Doyle and Thomas Jentz, and Sd. Kfz 250 Alt-Neu: Archive: v.3,Pt.2 by Martin Kogel.

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    Fortunately, the first has re-printed and whilst the second is OOP, but can be found fairly easily second-hand.

    They each have a lot of excellent photos and the Doyle/Jentz book has fine scale drawings of most variants, but they both leave the interior of the late 250 as something of a mystery. The Doyle/Jentz book has a plan view of the late 250/3 with interior, for example, but the plan view of the 250/1 has an empty interior. Knowing the authors, I suspect this is because they were not prepared to speculate where they lacked enough first-hand source material.

    Anyway, I didn't want to get too bogged down in the technical stuff - this is supposed to be a diorama blog after all. In the end, what I put together was based on the original Dragon kit, a mixture of the Aber and Royal Model photoetch sets (which often overlap, but sometimes differ), the above-mentioned books and images I found on line. Chief amongst the latter were pictures of the well-known Panzerfarm late 250/1 that was dredged up from a river surprisingly intact.

    Because the upper and lower half of the superstructure need to be attached before you can complete the exterior I did most of the interior painting before this happened. At this stage I also added a driver using parts from various figures. Getting this guy to fit was one of the most challenging parts of the build because the fit is so tight: once he was in he wasn't coming out!

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    Comment

    • scottie3158
      SMF Supporters
      • Apr 2018
      • 14478
      • Paul
      • Holbeach

      #182
      Stunning

      Comment

      • Airborne01
        • Mar 2021
        • 4222
        • Steve
        • Essex

        #183
        Superb modelling, the detail and weathering is outstanding!
        Steve

        Comment

        • Neil Merryweather
          • Dec 2018
          • 5291
          • London

          #184
          Wow Tim, that's brilliant!

          Comment

          • minitnkr
            SMF Supporters
            • Apr 2018
            • 7713
            • Paul
            • Dayton, OH USA

            #185
            Amazing.

            Comment

            • TIM FORSTER
              • Apr 2018
              • 291
              • TIM
              • LONDON, UK

              #186
              Thanks guys...

              Sdkfz 250 Ausf B Part II

              A few views of the exterior before the paint hit...

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              You can see the muxture of photetch from Royal Model (the brass and resin exhaust), Aber (the upper superstructure and MG shield) plus a few additions of my own (like the side step). The beautiful sagged front wheels are from DEF Models and the sprockets are 3D prints from SBS (the same people who provided the seats and radio). The crisp side vision port slits are a very nice feature of the Aber set - you just don't get this with the original plastic.

              I textured the upper hull sides and the armoured nose with diluted Mr Surfacer 1000 to give the appearance of armour plate.

              The tarpauline still needs a little more work but I’m happy that I went with the old-fashioned tissue and PVA glue method. It sits on one of the metal hoops from the Aber set and it’s fully detachable.

              Here's a nice shot of the Panzer Farm 250 for comparison: not looking bad for a vehicle which spent several decades in a river!

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              Painting started with an airbrushed coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 Mahogany followed by Tamiya Dark Yellow 2 XF-80. This is the ‘improved’ acrylic version of the classic German Dunkelgelb (RAL 7028). I had not used my airbrush for a while and I forgot just how beautifully these Tamiya paints spray. After that I lightened the mix in two stages with some white and went for light overspray in a random cloud pattern, focussing on the highlights. I then finished with a coat of Semi-Gloss X-35.

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              At this point I hadn't given much thought to how I was going to finish the halftrack beyond the standard dunkelgelb. Should it stay in the basic colour or be camouflaged?

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              Looking closely at the 250 from the famous newsreel taken at Kaiserbaracke Crossroads (these two characters both appear in the iconic close-ups of of the Schwimm taken during the same sequence) you can see that the nose plate has the distinctive camo pattern. Also note what you can’t see - the SS runes are not visible on the number plate. This is not internet censorship: Kampfgruppe Hansen deliberately painted over the runes to disguise the fact that they were part of the 1st SS Panzer Division LSSAH.

              The standard three-colour scheme is clearly shown in images of factory-fresh 250s taken in 1944. These are from the excellent Panzer Tracts 15-1:

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              Once again I went with Tamiya acrylics, this time Dark Green 2 XF-89 and Red Brown 2 XF-90. Reminding myself to keep the air pressure as low as possible (around 5 psi), the paint as thin as possible (using Tamiya orange cap retarder lacquer thinner way beyond the 50% ratio) and the nozzle close to the model, I started…

              Here is the outcome of my first attempt.
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              At first, that I was quite pleased with the results. Sure, there was plenty of blotching and some spatter here and there - but in the real world this was applied with a spray gun by someone in a hurry… not an artist. However, comparing it to the reference images I decided that it just looked too ‘artistic’: the gaps between the squiggles were too regular and the squiggles themselves too narrow. So I took a deep breath and had a second go, adding to what I had already laid down.

              This time I was much happier with the way it turned out.

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              The decals, by the way, were found after a long dig through my spares box. The information stencil comes from a Fiat Topolino... Yes, I know it's not correct, but it was all I could find. However, everything will soon be covered in foliage and the port side will be almost invisible once on the diorama, so to hell with it!

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