engine wont keep goin

[BattleshipBob]

Would strongly suggest he has the tank cleaned inc fuel lines plus either replace the fuel filter or fit one

[boatman]

Would strongly suggest he has the tank cleaned inc fuel lines plus either replace the fuel filter or fit one

WELL Bob i think he will get that done in his service but cheers for the idea an i will tell him
ATB CHRIS

[BattleshipBob]

I have heard that because of bio fuels, a sludge can be found in the fuel tank especially if not used much

[Mini Me]

Yeah Chris, that is quite an improvement in mileage.......that's why I pay the little bit extra for Ethanol free fuel, it saves money in the long run. Glad to hear your neighbor got it sorted with the mower. Rick H.

[Ian M]

There are a good few videos on You Tube on how to remove ethanol from petrol. Looks quite easy. Maybe a little risky but I think most know that petrol is something to be careful with.

[colin m]

There are a good few videos on You Tube on how to remove ethanol from petrol. Looks quite easy. Maybe a little risky but I think most know that petrol is something to be careful with.

I've seen them and as the owner of a couple of classic cars was quite interested, but then I thought, I've paid for that ethanol ! I know, tight......

[Tim Marlow]

There are a good few videos on You Tube on how to remove ethanol from petrol. Looks quite easy. Maybe a little risky but I think most know that petrol is something to be careful with.

Not sure that’s a particularly good idea Ian. Apart from the obvious safety concerns, ethanol is one of the additives used to reduce pinking in an engine so minimises damage. In addition, modern car injector control systems are designed to work with ethanol mix petrol. E10 produces about ten percent less CO2 per unit volume burned than ethanol free petrol. Removing the ethanol will cause the engine management system to work inefficiently when trying to control emissions, in turn reducing engine power and decreasing engine life.
Seems like the petrol head equivalent of the anti vax movement to me!

[Tim Marlow]

I've seen them and as the owner of a couple of classic cars was quite interested, but then I thought, I've paid for that ethanol ! I know, tight......

Not tight….sensible! Your classics are designed to run on leaded fuel. Ethanol reduces pre ignition, much like lead did. By leaving the ethanol in you are protecting your classic engines.

[GerryW]

Always found that unleaded is rubbish if left for a few months (even had it form a 'film' on/in jets in carbs) not so much degrading, more leaving deposits in carbs, have had to replace one lawnmower carb complete, and replace all fuel lines/plastic parts on strimmers.

[Tim Marlow]

Always found that unleaded is rubbish if left for a few months (even had it form a 'film' on/in jets in carbs) not so much degrading, more leaving deposits in carbs, have had to replace one lawnmower carb complete, and replace all fuel lines/plastic parts on strimmers.

The deposits are the unleaded petrol degrading Gerry. Some of the components (petrol is a relatively crude mixture of hydrocarbons) oxidise and become insoluble.
After my interest was piqued by this thread I’ve read around the subject. The advice for unleaded fuel is that its best used with an additive in garden machinery because it degrades in storage. Unleaded also absorbs moisture when stored which makes starting the engine harder and harder. Briggs and Stratton, amongst others, make an additive specifically for this purpose. The additive can extend storage times for fuel by up to three years. Without the additive storage time is limited to four to six months. This advice is repeated on several manufacturers websites
From a personal viewpoint whatever we have left at the end of the season goes into Sue’s car. forg two years ago and have half a can of petrol water than is no good to man nor beast. :loudly-crying: I will have to change my system soon though as she’s buying a diesel, so from next year I’m using an additive :surprised:
It isn’t an issue when unleaded petrol is used in cars, by the way, because the petrol is used relatively quickly.

[Guest]

Electric for me, and its green as well nearly 4BO

TAXI

[GerryW]

The deposits are the unleaded petrol degrading Gerry. Some of the components (petrol is a relatively crude mixture of hydrocarbons) oxidise and become insoluble.
After my interest was piqued by this thread I’ve read around the subject. The advice for unleaded fuel is that its best used with an additive in garden machinery because it degrades in storage. Unleaded also absorbs moisture when stored which makes starting the engine harder and harder. Briggs and Stratton, amongst others, make an additive specifically for this purpose. The additive can extend storage times for fuel by up to three years. Without the additive storage time is limited to four to six months. This advice is repeated on several manufacturers websites
From a personal viewpoint whatever we have left at the end of the season goes into Sue’s car. forg two years ago and have half a can of petrol water than is no good to man nor beast. :loudly-crying: I will have to change my system soon though as she’s buying a diesel, so from next year I’m using an additive :surprised:
It isn’t an issue when unleaded petrol is used in cars, by the way, because the petrol is used relatively quickly.

Tim, I store petrol in a sealed metal jerry can, doubt that any evaporation takes place bang the sealing lever and the lid pulls down airtight

[GerryW]

Electric for me, and its green as well nearly 4BO

TAXI

Until they come up with an electric vehicle that will do 350 miles minimum during winter (lights and heater going) without charging (sister lives 340 miles away) or a hybrid that will do 50+mpg (why don't they do a diesel hybrid??) plus able to tow a 1+ tonne trailer, I'm going to be stuck with an ice vehicle.

[colin m]

Not tight….sensible! Your classics are designed to run on leaded fuel. Ethanol reduces pre ignition, much like lead did. By leaving the ethanol in you are protecting your classic engines.

Thanks for the info' Tim.

[Tim Marlow]

Tim, I store petrol in a sealed metal jerry can, doubt that any evaporation takes place bang the sealing lever and the lid pulls down airtight

It’s not evaporation Gerry. It’s the air and moisture already in the can (and absorbed in the fuel during filling) reacting with the fuel in the can. Every time you open the can the air gets exchanged and away we go again You probably can’t even stop it happening if you store your fuel under vacuum and never use it. I store mine in similar conditions in a sealed plastic petrol can and still get the same issue, hence ditching it at the end of every season.
I‘m not sure how the additives work, but they probably preferentially scavenge the oxygen in the air and moisture out of the fuel solution, minimising the chance of reaction.