How to camoflauge (First timer)

[stona]

No.

Get all the paint on before any varnishes. Xtracrylix should be maskable (is that a word?) without any protection.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Wow, all of your pictures are looking great. Aidan, I hope you dont mind pggy backing on here as I am about to build my Airfix 1:48 ME 109 and paint in Tropical colours, I have just puirchases a Harder and Steenbeck airbrush and some Vallejo paints and have been practicing with old nespaper and stuff. Any advice and guidance would be greatfully recieved regarding the painting aspect especially the Vallejo equivalent to the medium Blue for the underside.

Thanks in advance

Terry

[Guest]

That looks brilliant

[Guest]

No.Get all the paint on before any varnishes. Xtracrylix should be maskable (is that a word?) without any protection.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks Steve

[stona]

especially the Vallejo equivalent to the medium Blue for the underside.Terry

Hi Terry, I'm not a Vallejo user myself but the official tropical undersurface colour for fighters was known as RLM 78 (RLM is just the Reich Air Ministry). I believe Vallejo do and equivalent.

Some aircraft were delivered to North Africa in the European undersurface colour which was RLM 65 for fighters in the early war,later changed to RLM 76. You'd need to check your painting instructions which are usually pretty good.

Alternatively if you'd like to let us know which aircraft you are lining up as your next victim someone here might be able to help. It's not as complicated as it sounds

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Hi Stona,

Thanks for the reply, I have now managed to get the correct underside blue for my 1:48 Airfix ME 109 TROP. If you could maybe point me in the direction of any airbrushing guides that would be a great help.

:thinking:

Speak soon

T

[Guest]

Hello

I have finsihed painting the three colours on the 1:48 Me109 and the quality is accepatble (to me at least). I have used Xtracrylix paints so the finish is kind of satin. Plesae confirm my thoughts are correct or, supply sugestions:

Should I now add the decals onto the satin surface before I spray the matt varnish?

There are two bad pictures of the canopies. I have not done a canopy before and it fills me with dread.

Do I dunk the canopies in Klear before I paint them?

Do I paint the canopies on the inside rather than the outside?

How do I make tiny masks without scratching the clear plastic with my scalpel?

Thanks as always

Aidan

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[stona]

Okaaay!

1 Apply a gloss varnish (Klear will work) over your paint,allow it to dry and apply your decals onto this. This will significantly reduce the chances of "silvering" in which the decal film remains visible.

2 Dunk the canopies in Klear and allow to dry over night

Mask them on the outside

Paint the outside,first coat should be the INTERIOR colour. This will be visible when the canopy frame is viewed from the inside.

Paint the outside (camouflage) colour

3 I did a quick guide to canopy masking in this thread. It was a quick 5 min demo on a spare part to illustrate the technique,take your time and a very neat job can be achieved.

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/tutorials/8694-please-help-novice-masking-painting-canopies.html

You MUST use a very sharp blade. I use a new scalpel blade for this.

Cheers

Steve

[Ian M]

If you think that the finish on the paint is smooth and shiny enough put the decals on. Xtracryix are normally OK to decal, how ever, some will give a gloss coat before the decals. Its a better safe than sorry situation. You might risk silvering in the decals. This is caused by microscopic air bubbles in the surface of the paint, hence the clear parts of the decal appear silver. By having a shiny surface, the risk of this is significantly reduced.

The matt varnish is the very last thing to go on. That will mean AFTER the decals (and if you dare yet, weathering).

The canopy. Dip it in Klear then stand it on a bit of kitchen paper, to soak away any excess. Some times the clear can pool in the corners of frames. this can be removed simply with a dry brush. Just touch the tip to in and it will wick it away. Put a plastic cup or glass over it while it dries, to keep the dust of until it is dry. Klear is a dust magnet.

There are many different ways to mask a canopy. none are wrong none are the right way. Its a case of finding the one that works for you. I would suggest painting the outside.

You can cut thin, 1-2mm strips and place this on the window part tight to the frame, then fill the rest with more cut to size tape. You can also, particularly on flat square canopies such as the one you have, place a tape over the whole part. Burnish the tape into the edges with a cocktail stick. Then after a cup of tea, or a cigarette, what ever calms your hand. its a new blade in the scalpel and go for it. A fine point and new blade requires very little pressure to cut the tape and by following the frames, you can cut in the corner. Mistakes happen and we all have buggered a canopy or two.

Hope you are not scared off.

Ian M

[Guest]

Ian and Steve - thanks you for the tips. I don't get on with Klear but am willing to give it another go. Airbrush it on, or brush with hair? If airbrush, do I thin it? With what? Amonia?

Thanks again

Aidan

PS I don't smoke but I'm willing to start if it will get me through the canopy nigtmare!

[stona]

Aidan I gave up smoking many years ago but believe me I've been tempted to start again on a few occasions,locked in my den,confronted by a model that just doesn't want to submit!

The one thing Klear is definitely best for is dipping Klear parts. As far as the rest of the model goes,I brush Klear on using a flat brush and without thinning. A little goes a long way. Any gloss varnish should do the job so if you are uncomfortable using Klear you could just as easily spray a gloss of your choice. Klear is not the universal panacea some would have you believe and you wouldn't be the only one who doesn't get along with it. I suspect Laurie might chip in here

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Aidan I gave up smoking many years ago but believe me I've been tempted to start again on a few occasions,locked in my den,confronted by a model that just doesn't want to submit!The one thing Klear is definitely best for is dipping Klear parts. As far as the rest of the model goes,I brush Klear on using a flat brush and without thinning. A little goes a long way. Any gloss varnish should do the job so if you are uncomfortable using Klear you could just as easily spray a gloss of your choice. Klear is not the universal panacea some would have you believe and you wouldn't be the only one who doesn't get along with it. I suspect Laurie might chip in here

Cheers

Steve

A little goes a long way is part of my poblem Steve. If I brush it too thinly I get brush marks. If I put on too much, it tends to well in nooks and crannies. Getting the balance right is difficult and I don't want to risk it on my nice camouflage.

Aidan

[Ian M]

Forget this Klear. I'm with Steve. good for canopies, for a gloss varnish, use a gloss varnish. Vallejo make a great one and is airbrush ready, though some thin it just a tad. I do some times, others is just right out the bottle. Shake it well and you will be fine.

Oh dont panic if it looks purple when you spray it on it dries nice and clear.

Ian M