lol, well not in the modeling community no!
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Originally posted by the Boss!EXCUSES EXCUSES EXCUSES!!!!!!!
I sprayed it using Humbrol cans of spray it was a lot easier than going in to my loft to get my spray gun out, and I'm not very good with it anyway
Base was Matt dark earth, then covered it with bits of bluetac and sprayed Matt dark green to get the camouflage effect, I think it's turned out ok
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Looks good John. Just a query what era is the cam0 pattern from?And is this the pattern in the kit instructions?Comment
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TBH Pogo I havn't even looked at the instructions, so I guess it's from my eraComment
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Coming along nicely John. I can't wait to get home and have a go at mine. I suspect there will still be a few not finished by then so I won't be completely left out.
It will be interesting to see what display options people come up with.
I have a specific idea for mine that I have never seen before so looking forward to seeing how it will work.Comment
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pogo if you take a look at mine, i have tried to follow the camo pattern from the instructions as best i can...Comment
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I have found that the pattern was changed slightly on various aircraft. some when they had been sent back to the factory for major repairs and some when they went to MU for minor repairs. On base, repairs often ended witha quick coat of paint not ness in the same areas but close. Most did follow air ministry specs and stuck to the schemes laid down.Comment
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I had a few problems with the finishing off, first of all I didn't have any yellow paint for the propeller tips so I had to use white, I also lost the fuel cap, I had a few decals tear, I managed to fit them together apart from one that was beyond repair
Anyway I don't think it's turned out that bad
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Nice job John.
I was reading an article only this morning that said in the first year of the war most camoflage was hard edged so a painted scheme is probably more appropriate than air brushed for this model anyway.
I like the idea of leaving out the pilot to see inside more clearly.Comment
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When you consider that John has only built a couple of kits,this is not a bad job at all,just remember the sequence 1/paint model 2/treat with Johnsons 3/apply decals 4/seal with Johnsons,this stops what is called 'silvering' on the edges of the decal film,the problem with decals is there are so many different processes to produce them,the best that I have ever come across were in the Revell 'Borek' finished Tornado,they slid on like a dream,and followed the tricky curves at the same time.
If you do a test piece first with say the makers lettering on the decal and it cracks up,then apply a thin coat of Johnsons that helps hold the decal together.Comment
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