Ive known of the bare metal foil fir masking for years but never tried it out , you make a good point about not being able to see the tip of the ( silver) blade on the ( silver) tape! We’ll be watching to see how the experiment goes, keep up the good work pete, cheers tony
Pete's Wildcat
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Tony, I thought it was you who recommended it to me!
I saw a video on youtube where someone used BMF and cut it with a shallow curved scalpel blade, pushing rather than pulling the scalpel, to be more able to see where the blade is going. I didn't try that, just used the point of a number 11P, same as usual.
PeteComment
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Got a little more done. Couldn't fix the bit of fuselage that I'd cut off yesterday, as the join in the middle broke so I glued that yesterday then let it cure overnight before refitting it. I used the rear row of the engine to help locate it - just taped in place here.
Those joints will need a bit of filler and sanding, so I fitted the closed canopy with Maskol to keep the dust out. Maskol works really well as a temporary adhesive for parts that will be removed later.
PeteComment
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I needed a spot of filler on those joints, so dabbed them with Mr Dissolved Putty, which is very good for thin shallow seams. While that was drying I did some cleaning up on the wheels, and painted the prop:
Quite pleased with that, but I always find masking the yellow tips tricky. Does anyone have any tips for getting them straight, and all the same size? That's Tamiya yellow for the tips, Vallejo black, then Revell steel for the hub.
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I can share what I do.
Take some tape, lay it flat, draw a line in from one edge the intended depth of the tip. Then cut in to strips, fold in half (tacking only the ends) and then place over the tip to the marked depth.Comment
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It's not every day you get the chance to pose an aircraft with the wings folded. Only one option for me :thumb2:Comment
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