Scotties 25pdr.SP Bishop.

[Guest]

What's brass sheet like to work with Paul ? Pewter is great but so pliable and soon goes out of flat and can as you know bend easily.
Mud guard looks good and firm looking , that why I ask.

[Tim Marlow]

What's brass sheet like to work with Paul ? Pewter is great but so pliable and soon goes out of flat and can as you know bend easily.
Mud guard looks good and firm looking , that why I ask.

Half hard sheet is OK, takes bends well, and cuts and files easily. Also solder quite well, though not as well as nickel silver sheet. Not as soft as pewter though. Sheet that is annealed is too soft to work, even taking fingerprints if you are heavy handed. Brass pin wire is excellent for hand rails etc. nothing comes close.

[Guest]

Half hard sheet is OK, takes bends well, and cuts and files easily. Also solder quite well, though not as well as nickel silver sheet. Not as soft as pewter though. Sheet that is annealed is too soft to work, even taking fingerprints if you are heavy handed. Brass pin wire is excellent for hand rails etc. nothing comes close.

Cheers Tim .:thumb2:

[scottie3158]

What's brass sheet like to work with Paul ? Pewter is great but so pliable and soon goes out of flat and can as you know bend easily.
Mud guard looks good and firm looking , that why I ask.

John
Tim has just about summed it up. Pewter is good for flexible work straps etc and forming into complex shapes due to its softness. Brass sheet is better for angled shapes. It is harder to work, but annealing it helps especially on small items.
The mud guards were measured out then cut to allow the angles to be formed. Then soldered low temp paste is my go to. HTH

[Tim Marlow]

John
Tim has just about summed it up. Pewter is good for flexible work straps etc and forming into complex shapes due to its softness. Brass sheet is better for angled shapes. It is harder to work, but annealing it helps especially on small items.
The mud guards were measured out then cut to allow the angles to be formed. Then soldered low temp paste is my go to. HTH

Just for completeness……..Nickel silver sheet and strip has some advantages and some disadvantages over brass Scottie. It is just as east to cut and shape, though it slightly more springy in nature, which makes it structurally a bit stronger. It is much easier to solder, both taking solder better and nor spreading heat so rapidly, It takes paint better, making it more useful for anything likely to be handled. On the other hand, it is slightly harder to find, and is more expensive.

[Strenko J]

Lovely work on those mud guards!! What thickness of brass is that? And what thickness of pewter do you typically use? I noticed that you often use it as your go to metal.

[scottie3158]

Just for completeness……..Nickel silver sheet and strip has some advantages and some disadvantages over brass Scottie. It is just as east to cut and shape, though it slightly more springy in nature, which makes it structurally a bit stronger. It is much easier to solder, both taking solder better and nor spreading heat so rapidly, It takes paint better, making it more useful for anything likely to be handled. On the other hand, it is slightly harder to find, and is more expensive.

I will look it up next time I do an order for sheet.

[scottie3158]

Lovely work on those mud guards!! What thickness of brass is that? And what thickness of pewter do you typically use? I noticed that you often use it as your go to metal.

Hi Joe,

I have two main sheets of brass, 0.03mm/0.003" and 0.08mm/0.004". The pewter I have is 0.17mm/0.006" I do have some thicker stuff both in brass and ally but don't use a lot of that.

[scottie3158]

A little bit more done. The track tensioning tool was out of the spares box as it was slightly better detailed than the kit one. To this I added a strap and buckle and a stay for the handle.



The shovel had the blade profiled from the back to give it a thinner look this was then added along with the crowbar.



Finally for today the storage bin was added the hinge was removed and replaced with a scratched offering.



cheers
Scottie

[Jim R]

Excellently detailed additions Scottie. Interesting info about the pros and cons of different sheet metals. That solder paste you mentioned is good stuff.

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Joe,

I have two main sheets of brass, 0.03mm/0.003" and 0.08mm/0.004". The pewter I have is 0.17mm/0.006" I do have some thicker stuff both in brass and ally but don't use a lot of that.

Wow, that’s very thin brass. Most of my brass stuff in the railway days was made from ten or twenty thou. Five thou was used for fine detail, but I didn’t even know it came in three and four thou thicknesses.

[Guest]

That’s because Paul is using very short inches, whose exact length varies per sheet 0.03 mm is 0.0012 inches, 0.08 mm is 0.0031 inches, and 0.17 mm is 0.0067 inches — so, I guess, 10, 30 and 65 thou?

[Si Benson]

You never fail to amaze me with your neat, clean work….a joy to see :thumb2:

[Tim Marlow]

That’s because Paul is using very short inches, whose exact length varies per sheet 0.03 mm is 0.0012 inches, 0.08 mm is 0.0031 inches, and 0.17 mm is 0.0067 inches — so, I guess, 10, 30 and 65 thou?

Well Jakko, as I remember it, 40 thou is equivalent to about 1mm. That means ten thou is about 0.25 mm. You’ve just shown 0.03 mm to be 1.2 thou (which it is pretty much)…….and then claimed it’s 10 thou (which it isn’t) ….. and I’ve been drinking Bordeaux all evening :tongue-out3:.

[Guest]

What I did was type “0,03 mm” ([ICODE],[/ICODE] instead of [ICODE].[/ICODE] because I’m not an English-speaker :tongue-out and the rest into my iPad’s search function, and got those results. My Mac says the same (as you would expect, of course) when I do that just now:

[ATTACH]481022[/ATTACH]

So where is the mistake, then? Maybe the thicknesses Paul quoted are off in millimetres too?

The inches-to-thou conversion mistake is mine, of course. Just measure in millimetres, all problems like this go away