Model kit glue

[Guest]

When I was in the RAF I used [MEK] to clean the fuel couplings inside an F4 Phantom before fitting the bag tanks. I was in an enclosed space and suddenly felt like I was swimming in mid air. My safety man realised some thing was wrong,grabbed my collar and pulled me out. This was the late 70’s and we didn’t have proper breathing equipment.So if you are using it be careful.

The main thing to keep in mind here is what Tim and I both mentioned before in this thread: the amount you’re exposed to. You were almost certainly using far more to clean those fuel couplings than you would to build a model, and I expect you didn’t use it from a bottle like those that liquid model cement comes in, with a small opening and a cap you close right after use.

[stillp]

but i will stick with it.

I see what you did there :smiling5::smiling5:

Pete

[BattleshipBob]

Here all week Pete lol

[stillp]

That's a shame... :tongue-out3:

[Dave W]

I see what you did there :smiling5::smiling5:

Pete

The main thing to keep in mind here is what Tim and I both mentioned before in this thread: the amount you’re exposed to. You were almost certainly using far more to clean those fuel couplings than you would to build a model, and I expect you didn’t use it from a bottle like those that liquid model cement comes in, with a small opening and a cap you close right after use.

I was just making the point that it's nasty stuff and shouldn't be used without good ventilation..

[BarryW]

We all have favourites but different types have different uses. What I use is as follows:

Mr Cement S - this is an extra thin cement (like Tamiya Extra Thin but even better). This is my main cement that I use for 80% of jobs. You hold the parts together and apply a drop of cement to the join and allow capillary action to weld the parts together. It can be used for everything from joining small parts to joining fuselage halves.

Mr Cement SP - this is new in my armoury and may well take over as my main cement. This is like Mr Cement S and used the same way but grips even faster. I dont see it as replacing Mr Cement S as sometimes it is useful to have one that still grips fast but provides a little more adjustment time. There is a black version of this that I have not tried yet but I an see how it would be useful for seam checking.

Mr Cement De Luz - this is my slower drying cement and I use this when you have no choice but to apply cement to a part before mating it. This does not get used very often but can be useful. The other two cements evaporate too quickly to use by this method.

Gator Grip Glue - This is my canopy glue, dries clear. Best not used on load bearing parts. Sometimes also useful for p.e. parts.

Three types of c.a. superglues; these are used to attach metal parts including p.e. also often for final fittings at the end of a build for weapons, aerials etc.
Thick - jell like c.a. that I use when I need plenty of adjustment time.
Medium - my general purpose c.a. for most jobs
Thin - when I want to use capillary action with c.a.

[Peter Gillson]

Hi Guys
I am coming a bit late to this thread but I thought this may be of some interest.

Back in 2006 I did an article for MilMod about glues. Attached is a pdf - sorry for the poor quality, I know I do not have the original text any more. It included the following table cross referencing materials to materials to types of glue.



One word of caution: it was produced in 2006 - 13 years ago!!!!

Peter

[Guest]

I was just making the point that it's nasty stuff and shouldn't be used without good ventilation..

Which is true, but people these days tend to take advice like that too far and very quickly forego anything that seems to have even remote risks attached to it without looking at how they can limit or remove those risks.

[BattleshipBob]

Barry

Does mr cement give off much.fumes??

[BarryW]

Hi Bob. In my experience about the same as Tamiya.

[BattleshipBob]

Thank you Barry

The slower evaporation will help me. Holding parts together is not often possible

Bob

[BarryW]

Bob. Don’t write off the thinner stuff. With that you can use masking tape to position parts, like wing halves or fuselage halves. This means you can get them properly aligned before applying cement to the join in various places away from the tape. Five minutes later remove the tape and apply more cement between the other applications. You don’t have to hold the parts between your fingers.

[AlanG]

I love using Mr Cement S but i also use the Revell Contacta for the 'slower' bits. But now you've mentioned the SP i might have to have a look at that too

[BattleshipBob]

Many thanks Barry, very good advice, much appreciated

Bob

[Guest]

Hi Guys
I am coming a bit late to this thread but I thought this may be of some interest.

Back in 2006 I did an article for MilMod about glues. Attached is a pdf - sorry for the poor quality, I know I do not have the original text any more. It included the following table cross referencing materials to materials to types of glue.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1090303[/ATTACH]

One word of caution: it was produced in 2006 - 13 years ago!!!!

Peter

Thanks Peter , now downloaded