Water,water everywhere but how do you make it?

[Guest]

Good point ian if you want the illusion of depth then some blueish paint or browny green if it's muddy then several coats of high gloss varnish will give the illusion of deep water my mate Ron uses this to good effect. If you want actual effect then a pouring resign is a good method.

scott

[AlanG]

Anyone know which Scenics Water i can use to recreate something like a shell hitting the water (like you see when tankers are getting dive bombed)?

[Guest]

Its for my LCVP in open water, i've built the base approx 2" deep, i painted this dark greens and greys. I then placed a clear perspex sheet in and cut out a slot for the craft to sit in, i was starting to add resin on top of this and aimed to put in around 15 -20 mm then use clear silicon to show the effect of breaking water around the boat, still aim on doing this but may have to paint the first coat of resin and start again.

[Guest]

Al, I would look at using the Valejo water effects. I have seen a demo where they have done small spikes of stretched sprue sticking out f the water around a load of figures. This was then covered with the foam and snow resulting in machine gun bullet splashes, looked really good. Have a look here

[AlanG]

Many thanks Graham

[Ian M]

Its for my LCVP in open water, i've built the base approx 2" deep, i painted this dark greens and greys. I then placed a clear perspex sheet in and cut out a slot for the craft to sit in, i was starting to add resin on top of this and aimed to put in around 15 -20 mm then use clear silicon to show the effect of breaking water around the boat, still aim on doing this but may have to paint the first coat of resin and start again.

Sounds like my water for the Volga dio in the Russina front GB.

A Couple of tips. I used Vallejo Still water resin. And yes its very clear! On the plus side it can be tinted to any colour with a few drops of their paint. I used Khaki and sand for a nice muddy river water. I would thing a blue grey will be more your cup of tea (yummy). Be sure that the boat fits well in the hole and I would advise you to seal it in with plastercine so there are NO leaks. My first bottle ot the resin drained away over night!. Also I would recomend that you dont do it in the shed. It will take forever to cure and you will risk fogging and even worse, lifting.

Vallejo also make the clear water paste, which is a bit like very thick pva but isnt. You could maybe use this to seal the hull in the perspex with. Once that has dried, pour the resin in and leave to dry. If you want onlt light ripples on the water, this can be acheived my runnung your fingers across the resin before it is dry. You could use the paste again to build up waves. The paste can also be coloured to match the water. Once that is dry you can try either a thick white paint to do a bit of scum around the boat, or use the foam from Vallejo. ( No I do not have shares in them, I just like them).

Here are the products: Water & Stones

[AlanG]

Graham. Do you know if you can add colour to that Vallejo Water Effects? Apparently it dires clear/transparant

[Ian M]

Allyne; Yes it can, See post above...

[AlanG]

oops missed that Ian. Thanks. I presume it's the acrylic paints you used and not the inks for tiniting?

[Guest]

You could also use the Vallejo Snow and Foam which is designed to be used as, well snow and foam, so wave tops, white water etc. I have just got a few from John in this mornings post, the Still water, Snow and Foam and Water Effects not sure when I will get around to trying them but I will pass on any info when I do. Snow and Foam is a small pack designed to be dripped on to wave tops or as snow on tree branches etc. Have a search for Vallejo tutorials for the water effects. I know some reviewers are not keen on the water effects and still water but I will make my own mind up.

[Guest]

Graham i've just had a look at that blog and that is well cool in fact it has helped me with my idea for that WWI dio cheers mate.

scott

[Guest]

Just in case any of you hadn't noticed this one, here is a perspex water effect which looks superb.

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/completed/11119-quiet-corner-kent-1940-battle-britain-1-72-a.html

[Guest]

Sounds like my water for the Volga dio in the Russina front GB. A Couple of tips. I used Vallejo Still water resin. And yes its very clear! On the plus side it can be tinted to any colour with a few drops of their paint. I used Khaki and sand for a nice muddy river water. I would thing a blue grey will be more your cup of tea (yummy). Be sure that the boat fits well in the hole and I would advise you to seal it in with plastercine so there are NO leaks. My first bottle ot the resin drained away over night!. Also I would recomend that you dont do it in the shed. It will take forever to cure and you will risk fogging and even worse, lifting.

Vallejo also make the clear water paste, which is a bit like very thick pva but isnt. You could maybe use this to seal the hull in the perspex with. Once that has dried, pour the resin in and leave to dry. If you want onlt light ripples on the water, this can be acheived my runnung your fingers across the resin before it is dry. You could use the paste again to build up waves. The paste can also be coloured to match the water. Once that is dry you can try either a thick white paint to do a bit of scum around the boat, or use the foam from Vallejo. ( No I do not have shares in them, I just like them).

Here are the products: Water & Stones

Cheers Ian, thats proberaly where i got the idea from:thumbsup:, i sealed around the hull and edges with clear silicone, i'm afraid all i've got is the shed and i don't fancy leaving a heater plugged in when i'm not about.

I also had a bit of a seepage problem on my first attempt (no sniggering at the back please) but able to save most of the resin, oh well live and learn

[Guest]

also had a bit of a seepage problem on my first attempt (no sniggering at the back please)

Sorry but to my shame, I had to snigger..........

[Ian M]

I hope you had more luck with getting the resin to stay on the silicon! On mine it was a bit like opposing magnets; not matter how you try the darn things just repel each other. With hind sight the next time I will stick the plexi down with the thick paste rather than silicone.

An other good point if you do the pour in stages, like I did, would be to scour the surface of the first resin. I can see on mine that the top layer is lifting away. I dont know if its due to the lack of a key, or that its living in the shed. OK the bowl of water out there isnt frozen yet but its bloody cold and a tad damp. One of the good things with the Vallejo stuff is that it is as good as odourless, and does not produce heat duering the cureing process, so I would say its not a big problem to use indoors.

Hope yours is going well and look forwards to a photo or two.