Red Arrows: Which Red?

[Guest]

Firstly let me apologise if this has been asked before, but a search of the forum hasn't answered my question.

I'm about to order the Airfix 1/48 RAF Red Arrows Hawk with the intention of it being my first airbrushed model (eek!). The idea being that the single colour (red all over) will be easier to start with than a camo model.

I was hoping to use Vallejo Model Air paint but I'm having trouble working out which red would be nearest the desired BS537 Red.

Do any of you guys have a recommendation as to which "Model Air" red would be closest.

[tr1ckey66]

Hi Andy

The shop actually stocks the Red Arrows red see link below...

-arrows-red-bs537-xtracrylix-xa1014.html

Like the Vallejo Model Air Range it is (as the name suggests) acrylic paint and although I've never tried them I've heard good reports. If it's your first dabble with an AB you'll need to get used to the individual brand of paint anyway. This will need to be thinned with water for the AB.

Hope this helps

Cheers, P

[Guest]

Had a look online at the Xtracrylix RAF Red Arrows Red BS537 XA1014, but it doesn't say how big the tin is...

I assume it's similar to a Humbrol tin size of approx 14ml?

Will this be big enough to cover a 1/48th scale Hawk?

Does anybody use Xtracrylix paint? Is it ok to airbrush? If so, what thinning ratio is best?

Sorry for so many questions, but having not used an airbrush before I just want to know what I'm up against, (and how much paint to buy ).

[Ian M]

Xtracrylix are very good. I thin them with vallejo airbrush thinner and they spray very nice and dry to a hard smooth finish.

As to how mush to thin... to many variables for me to say.

Its a case of trial and error.

there is enough in a pot to paint at least a couple or three 1/48 scale aircraft.

Ian M

[Guest]

I have some good conversion sheets to had, If its airfix then it will have the humbrol numbers in the manual let me know the number and i can give the Vallejo colour codes. Will dig out the links to my colour conversion stuff if i am aloud to post them here

[Guest]

Just had a look, not sure on the exact BS no so i have included 537 and 538

BS381 537 - Signal Red CONVERSION TO Humbrol 174 - Signal Red CONVERSION TO Model Air 71.085

BS381 538 - Post Office Red / Cherry CONVERSION TO RAL 3013 - Tomato red CONVERSION TO Vallejo Model Colour 957#31 CONVERSION TO Model Air 71.084

These may not be 100% correct but worth a shot,

I have 71.085 Ferrari Red and too me looks right, but check 71.084 Fire Red which i dont have

Hope these help

[tr1ckey66]

Xtracrylix paints come in 16ml plastic pots model air in 17ml bottles (pre-thinned for airbrush), so in effect you get more paint with the Xtracrylix. 1 pot should be plenty for a 1/48 Hawk but you will need to prime the model first.

This is my take on airbrushing but others may tell you differently...

I believe there is no substitute for actual practice with an airbrush. I've been using airbrushes now for over 20 years and I still feel I learn something each time I pick it up. That said I believe the most important points are these:-

1 The mix of the paint is VERY important. A general 'rule-of-thumb' is that the paint should be the consistency of semi skimmed milk. You will need to get used to thinning paints and this project seems as good as any other. Although model air is pre-thinned in the bottle I actually find it too thick and thin it down further anyway. I've read that, for best results, thin Xtracrylix between a 60:40 and a 50:50 ratio with Vallejo airbrush cleaner (sounds weird but I have done similar with other paints). Other solvents (isopropyl alcohol etc) will work but I'm trying to keep the answers as simple as poss (probably failing in this task!)

My paint collection consists of Model Air, Model Color, Tamiya, Life Color and a few odd tins of whatever. My personal preference is 'Life color' which you do need to thin but has excellent smooth pigmentation, thins beautifully and covers perfectly.

The point to this rambling is that whatever paint you buy you will need to practice with THAT brand of paint in YOUR airbrush set up as there are so many factors at work - the air pressure you're using, temperature, humidity etc.

2 The pressure you use in the AB is also VERY important. Too low and the paint will spatter on the piece, too high and the paint will dry on the needle tip and block the AB. My airbrush is generally set around 25psi but can go lower than 15psi for fine work and sometimes a little higher depending on usage. Generally speaking the finer the work the the lower the pressure.

The best advice I can give is to practice with the paint in your airbrush and experiment a little. Try different pressures and paint consistencies starting within the ball park set out above. Practice on paper and try and get as thin a line as you can (this will teach you control). Try signing your name. Then try to get a really flat even finish by spraying side to side smoothly without 'pooling' the paint. Then try a transition from a thin line to a wider spray pattern in one movement. All this will get used to the airbrush. Remember the distance at which you work will vary too - fine work will be close and coverage painting will be at a distance of around 10-12 inches. Once you've practiced a bit and your more confident with the equipment and materials try airbrushing a test piece (you could prime the inside of a wing and then airbrush that).

Remember practice is the key word here there is no substitute.

The next advice is to learn to clean your airbrush and KEEP IT CLEAN because if paint is left in there it will either impair it's performance or block it completely. You will not believe how automatic this procedure will become. I liken it to cleaning the rifle in 'Full Metal Jacket' - 'this is my airbrush, there are many like it but this is MINE!'. You'll learn how to dismantle the thing blindfolded and put it back together again. That sounds comical but in a few years time you will realise how familiar those bits of shiny metal are and will actually know in advance when the AB will block and know the reason why.

An airbrush is a great tool for the modeller and I hope you have some fun with yours. The flat even coverage of the Hawk shouldn't be too difficult, although gloss finishes tend to be a little more difficult to achieve that matt ones. The Red Arrows Hawk should be a good test for your first AB venture and I wish you all the best with it.

Remember to keep us up to date with the build!

All the best

Paul

[Guest]

The FS number for the Red Arrows Red is FS11350.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks for the input chaps. I've decided to give the Xtracrylix Red BS537 a bash, I didn't want to take the path of thinning paint (hence my desire to use Model Air) because of my lack of airbrushing experience, and I want to try and develop a technique before adding more variables (if that makes sense). But seeing as it comes recommended I thought I'd get some ready for when I start spraying.

So I paid Hannants a visit this afternoon, my first for about 3 or 4 years, and I'd forgotten just how massive and impressive the Hannants Warehouse is! I found what I needed then started to have a browse round but started to run short on time , so it looks like I'll have to visit again soon to continue my browsing. It's a shame it's all of 1 mile away from my front door

[Guest]

... I forgot to mention, I walked out of Hannants with the Airfix 1/48th Red Arrow Hawk, an Eduard paint mask for the Hawk canopy, a jar of Xtracrylix Red BS537, some Tamiya masking tape and a tube of Squadron White Putty.

Damn! Just realised, forgot to get some white primer... any recommendations guys?

It's about time I got another order in at the SMS shop, I'm hoping this will be the last order/purchase before I commence the Hawk build. I'm hoping I've got all the necessary tools and stuff to get on with the job now.

[Ian M]

AS far as primer goes if you want one for the airbrush I can recommend the Vallejo range. Dry flat and smooth and if left to cure fully is as hard as nails.

Also, Alclad primers are great and can be used under just about any paint type. Down side the smell. good side dry and ready after a few hours.

They are the two I use most and I'm pleased with the results.

I'll just add that for a good red finish that pops, try a yellow undercoat.

Ian M

[Guest]

I'll just add that for a good red finish that pops, try a yellow undercoat.Ian M

Yep ... The perfect way to make it 'pop' ... White primer then flat yellow then the red will do it if you can't find a decent yellow that grips the surface ...

[Guest]

Yep ... The perfect way to make it 'pop' ... White primer then flat yellow then the red will do it if you can't find a decent yellow that grips the surface ...

Vallejo do a yellow primer

Laurie

[tr1ckey66]

Hi Andy

I've always used automotive primer out of a rattle can. Halfords plastic primer is excellent. By far the best white primer I've used is Mr Base White 1000 (although it is comparatively more expensive), halfords white primer works fine. My experience with Vallejo range is that there not as tough/durable as the automotive stuff but again, don't let this put you off, you need to find what works for you.

Hope this helps

Paul

[tr1ckey66]

Oh Andy, before I forget, remember you'll need some solvent for the xtracrylix - Vallejo airbrush cleaner has been suggested elsewhere. Having used airbrush cleaner with other paints I'm trusting in this advise.

Cheers, P