Thanks all.
Yes that acrylic filler is ok for those mentioned, I've just cut and wired a head, and used Tamiya to start the filling.
1/35 TAMIYA StuG 1V
- Thread starter John Race
- Start date
Yes that acrylic filler is ok for those mentioned, I've just cut and wired a head, and used Tamiya to start the filling.
As mentioned about, the figure I want to look at the side, while speaking to some ground soldiers. Not wanting to fit a new head, I've cut and wired this one. Using Tamiya filler , will need to add more but applying in layers.
Mean while the rest of the parts, minus the tracks, have had a coat of primer. Used Ultimate own brand, found it to be perfect as no thinning required.
Have done those tools this way off the kit as I will fully paint and put them on later. Next will be the main colour and chipping, looking forward to that part.
John.
Mean while the rest of the parts, minus the tracks, have had a coat of primer. Used Ultimate own brand, found it to be perfect as no thinning required.
Have done those tools this way off the kit as I will fully paint and put them on later. Next will be the main colour and chipping, looking forward to that part.
John.
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Very nice John, coming along a treat
Thanks Bob.
Not done much today, glued the base together , no hair spray for chipping with my bad chest , even with a mask .
You're making fine progress. Looking very good.
Thanks Jim. The base is done, will post photos later.
Just gone through your build ..great work so far on a classic kit
Stug is looking wonderful JR
Afternoon all.
Yesterday I started the base.Using XPS foam 40 mm thick . The Proton was used, but as the length is limited, you have to join to get to the required size. Those marks are from the tape when the PVA stuck to the tape .
As it will be covered, there is no problem.
PVA on the XPX FOAM, brush marks show the direction of the adhesive, on the corresponding top section, the glue goes the opposite way .
Leaving it for 5 mins to become tacky adds to the grip. I still move the two sections in opposite directions to expel any air and increase the even coating. The top is Kappa Line foam board, by far the best out there.
Nice and thick base, helps make to make it stable.
Now weighted and left to dry overnight.
The pins in the triangle setting help to hold the top in place while you place the weights. Finally, I add the container to get an overall pressure.
Done a base plan, to help with where I want to build.
That's it, not exciting to some I know, but to any of our diorama builders it might be.
John.
Yesterday I started the base.Using XPS foam 40 mm thick . The Proton was used, but as the length is limited, you have to join to get to the required size. Those marks are from the tape when the PVA stuck to the tape .
As it will be covered, there is no problem.
PVA on the XPX FOAM, brush marks show the direction of the adhesive, on the corresponding top section, the glue goes the opposite way .
Leaving it for 5 mins to become tacky adds to the grip. I still move the two sections in opposite directions to expel any air and increase the even coating. The top is Kappa Line foam board, by far the best out there.
Nice and thick base, helps make to make it stable.
Now weighted and left to dry overnight.
The pins in the triangle setting help to hold the top in place while you place the weights. Finally, I add the container to get an overall pressure.
Done a base plan, to help with where I want to build.
That's it, not exciting to some I know, but to any of our diorama builders it might be.
John.
Attachments
Nice to see clean nails John!!
Thanks Bob, but you've not seen my left hand finger nails when I've been gardening!
Wondered that lol!Thanks Bob, but you've not seen my left hand finger nails when I've been gardening!
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