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Scale Model Shop

Bobs StuG no 2 ! Tamiya 1/35 B

You did well Bob, a few niggles with the tabs but considering the time it takes compared to a set of Trump's not bad at all.
Your model seems to give more clearance between the track and the guard, more realistic . My links fitted the sprokets perfectly, maybe a slight mismatch with the teeth on your version.
That paint work looks good .
 
Thread owner
Hi John, yep nice and easy to build and would use them again. Washed them and a good burnishing is next. Thats the problem with seperate track guards, had the same with a Revell StuG IV.

Thanks bob
 
John Race said:
Andrew when you've seen it could you tell me what you think please .
Click to expand...

Hi John,

So had a look and I think they look ok. The process is straightforward, although you obviously need to be very careful thinning the plastic.

ATB

Andrew
 
Coming along really well Bob. Thanks for the up date on the aerial. Good luck with the modulation.
 
Thread owner
Morning Steve

Getting worried, becoming a right nerd!!

Busy on youtube watching vids on modulation. So many ideas, some mask off areas, others free style???

Biggest question for me is the colour used, do you use a lighter shade or add white or what, my brain hurts!!
 
Excuse us Bob .

adt70hk said:
Hi John,

So had a look and I think they look ok. The process is straightforward, although you obviously need to be very careful thinning the plastic.

ATB

Andrew
Click to expand...
Thanks Andrew.
Yes a slight slip and all would be ruined. I used a hot soldering iron when I want to do hit, think that the heat on the plastic gives a reasonable damage mark.
 
Bobthestug said:
Morning Steve

Getting worried, becoming a right nerd!!

Busy on youtube watching vids on modulation. So many ideas, some mask off areas, others free style???

Biggest question for me is the colour used, do you use a lighter shade or add white or what, my brain hurts!!
Click to expand...

All I can tell you is what I would do if it were my model. Modulation is all about personal preference to how you want your model to look and where you think the light is coming from. I luv the contrast of having light wheels against a dark hull for instance. So I would coat all of the lower hull including the front slope in Panzergrau. I would do the same on all vertical panels including the ones by the front mudguards in Panzergrau. I would then lighten the colour by about 20% with Light Grey not White and do all the hatches at the front and on top along with the fenders and rear where engine covers are. I would do 30% lighter on front of hull and top of fightingcompartment so that you have contrast between these areas and the hatches. Finally I would lighten base colour by 40% and do engine covers and any raised areas anywhere on the model. This would mainly be done with a brush. The other layer would be done with an airbrush mainly free hand if you are comfortable with this. Modulation always looks best with crisp lines of different shades. It's all good fun. Looking forward to seeing how you get on.
 
John Race said:
Excuse us Bob .


Thanks Andrew.
Yes a slight slip and all would be ruined. I used a hot soldering iron when I want to do hit, think that the heat on the plastic gives a reasonable damage mark.
Click to expand...

I like the heat thing too and the look it gives. As you say one slip and a kit is ruined. Fortunately for the wargaming Junior and I do, it doesn't look good if your forces have lots of holes in before battle has commenced and so I don't have to worry about it.

ATB

Andrew
 
Thread owner
Steve Jones said:
All I can tell you is what I would do if it were my model. Modulation is all about personal preference to how you want your model to look and where you think the light is coming from. I luv the contrast of having light wheels against a dark hull for instance. So I would coat all of the lower hull including the front slope in Panzergrau. I would do the same on all vertical panels including the ones by the front mudguards in Panzergrau. I would then lighten the colour by about 20% with Light Grey not White and do all the hatches at the front and on top along with the fenders and rear where engine covers are. I would do 30% lighter on front of hull and top of fightingcompartment so that you have contrast between these areas and the hatches. Finally I would lighten base colour by 40% and do engine covers and any raised areas anywhere on the model. This would mainly be done with a brush. The other layer would be done with an airbrush mainly free hand if you are comfortable with this. Modulation always looks best with crisp lines of different shades. It's all good fun. Looking forward to seeing how you get on.
Click to expand...
Many thanks Steve, have given a hetzer a coat of panzer grey to practice with. much appreciated

best wishes bob
 
Just caught up Bob, neat paint work and damage :thumb2: .

Good luck with the modulation work, think I’ll use some of Steve’s tips too:smiling:.
 
Hi Bob, sorry for getting back to you this late. Yes, in my experience the lacquer system has always given me good results. I use Model Masters enamel and lacquer paints and clear coats exclusively. I have never tried water based paints on any model other than figure painting. That is about to change as I am going to try a winter cammo wash over panzer grey on my Mercedes 4500 "Kuchwagen", hope it works. Rick H.
 
Thread owner
Fernando N said:
Just caught up Bob, neat paint work and damage :thumb2: .

Good luck with the modulation work, think I’ll use some of Steve’s tips too:smiling:.
Click to expand...
Thanks Fernando, pleased so far!

Mini Me said:
Hi Bob, sorry for getting back to you this late. Yes, in my experience the lacquer system has always given me good results. I use Model Masters enamel and lacquer paints and clear coats exclusively. I have never tried water based paints on any model other than figure painting. That is about to change as I am going to try a winter cammo wash over panzer grey on my Mercedes 4500 "Kuchwagen", hope it works. Rick H.
Click to expand...
Not a problem Rick, appreciate the info. After getting my other airbrush repaired might get some Tamiyal acquer paints to try?

Bob
 
Bob,
Looking good. I haven't used modulation as such but I do make the middle of panels lighter. I use the same body colour but lighten it with light flesh as opposed to white. But there will be a million and one techniques that people use and it is one of those things that people will find a method they are happy with.
 
Thread owner
Many thanks Scottie

As you say, theres so many methods out there, so a Hetzers in the firing line!
 
WELL Bob as you know im no tanky but your build looks ok an im enjoyin watchin what you get up to on this build
chris
 
Bobthestug said:
Many thanks Steve, have given a hetzer a coat of panzer grey to practice with. much appreciated

best wishes bob
Click to expand...
This all too much , watch Rivet , Bob , he is trained by The Man from the North aka Simon T, members of the black arts society, he will have you doing multi-coloured camo next.
 
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