discussion Paint sanding

[BattleshipBob]

I have started using lacqure and one very important thing get a MASK!! I have just bought a selection of MRP and also Mr color and tamiya and in my opinion MRP is the best i have found and its pre thinned!

But as Laurie says, get one bottle of Vallejo , tamiya etc etc and play and practice

 

[Guest]

I wonder if there is a equivalent to this that I already have.?

Carl, I've tried with several other similar thinners that don't achieve the same. So I'm no help on that one.

 

[Defiant911]

OK Carl some information to feed on. This is my recommendation.

Dump the AB brush in the drawer.

The Iwata is as fine brush. well engineered. I use a similar with a 0.35 for general work. Also has a top cup where you can add colours & thinners etc straight into it.

Paint. Well this is a hot bed. Every one has there ideas. Most descend on to one brand. I have. Reason is that I have become used to it know what I can do with it drying times how forgiving it is.

You have heard about Lacquer paint. So the best is to get a pot & try it. Do not go mad & buy a lot. Try it first to see if it suites you.

I use Tamiya XF & X range. This is a sophisticated range of acrylic Paint. It is thin & you will not loose any detail panel lines etc in fine detail. Try that just one pot.

With a lacquer & Tamiya you will have the best of paints.

I would get a large empty plastic drinks bottle. Spend lots of time with this selection of paints trying them out. Close then 150mm away different setting of PSI.
Spend a couple of hours it is worth while as you will learn a lot about the paints & the Iwata Brush.

On your disaster there are half a dozen reasons that could have happened. No mention of primer. I as said use the Tamiya range. The primer I use for that is Stynlerez which is superb.Not a Lacquer man so cannot adivse.

Hi Laurie,
I have many Tamiya paints and also a selection of varnish. Is there a specific varnish for Tamiya to mix?

 

[Defiant911]

So I used my Tamiya thinner to remove paint back to plastic. This seem to work just fine. I taped off some of the area of the fuselage and sprayed the wing back in. It actually went much easier that I thought and it’s pretty hard to tell it was resprayed again other than if compared to the opposite wing as the paint has a smoother finish this time. I used my 0.35 needle Iwata which has a much smaller spray pattern so you have to build the paint up with many runs. I also set the psi down to about 15 and moved in smaller patterns until area was covered. I almost feel like doing the other wing to improve the finish but I’m not going to tempt fate as it looks ok from a foot away long as you don’t feel the paint finish.
anyway, I can move on to finishing the model off now with some paint touch ups and a coat of varnish .
Carl

 

[Tim Marlow]

Looks good now Carl. Nice recovery. I really would think about redoing the other side though, a rough finish will make decal application harder and may cause slivering Under the decal.

 

[Guest]

Few things Carl.

Tamiya paints. some of the FX have a strange semi gloss finish othere pure matt.

With Tamiya FX I 30% thin with Tamiya 20a thinner. I also have Tamiya X35 which is a semi gloss. I drop 10% into the XF colour. Gives a nice smooth finish.

Tamiya do not have a high gloss varnish stupid. I use Aqua Aclad 11Lacquer Aqua Gloss Clear. Thin for giving & very easy to clean your airbrush.

Carl I would bin your Vallejo Primer it peels like an orange. A disaster area in the masking removal zone.

Go for Stynylerez it is for Acrylics a hard primer & can be feather edge sanded. Vallejo primer can not be. Also in the UK marketed under the name Ultimate Primer.

All the above is Acrylics info. For Lacquer get info from a Lacquer user.

With your Iwats do not be to timid. For general coverage 20PSI. About 150 175mm from the surface. Keep moving with the trigger pressed down & pulled back plenty.
You want good coverage & so that the surface is just getting very slightly wet. Keep moving the brush ALL the time. Lower PSI & not enoguh paint will give a rough finish.

Do not for get . This is the way I do it. See how others do it & get your own technique.

 

[Defiant911]

Few things Carl.

Tamiya paints. some of the FX have a strange semi gloss finish othere pure matt.

With Tamiya FX I 30% thin with Tamiya 20a thinner. I also have Tamiya X35 which is a semi gloss. I drop 10% into the XF colour. Gives a nice smooth finish.

Tamiya do not have a high gloss varnish stupid. I use Aqua Aclad 11Lacquer Aqua Gloss Clear. Thin for giving & very easy to clean your airbrush.

Carl I would bin your Vallejo Primer it peels like an orange. A disaster area in the masking removal zone.

Go for Stynylerez it is for Acrylics a hard primer & can be feather edge sanded. Vallejo primer can not be. Also in the UK marketed under the name Ultimate Primer.

All the above is Acrylics info. For Lacquer get info from a Lacquer user.

With your Iwats do not be to timid. For general coverage 20PSI. About 150 175mm from the surface. Keep moving with the trigger pressed down & pulled back plenty.
You want good coverage & so that the surface is just getting very slightly wet. Keep moving the brush ALL the time. Lower PSI & not enoguh paint will give a rough finish.

Do not for get . This is the way I do it. See how others do it & get your own technique.

Totally agree about the Vallejo primer . I’ve already had it peel of when masking etc. As you say, it doesn’t seem to stick too well. Annoyingly I got two big bottles of the stuff in grey and black.. I need to practice more in the psi I think.
carl

 

[Defiant911]

Looks good now Carl. Nice recovery. I really would think about redoing the other side though, a rough finish will make decal application harder and may cause slivering Under the decal.

Damn you, now look what you made me do..

 

[BarryW]

Totally agree about the Vallejo primer . I’ve already had it peel of when masking etc. As you say, it doesn’t seem to stick too well. Annoyingly I got two big bottles of the stuff in grey and black.. I need to practice more in the psi I think.
carl

Vallejo Primer is not good. But it can be made to work. Clean the plastic thoroughly first. Lay down the primer in very light coats building up colour gradually. Leave it for at least 24 hours, in an airing cupboard ideally so it fully cures. Humidity is your enemy and it will need longer depending on that.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Biggest issue I have found with VJ primer is not peeling, but the inability to sand it to feather edges for minor repairs. I have therefore relegated it to use on priming gaming terrain pieces only. I haven’t used Stynylres as I assumed it was similar. Normally use decanted Tamiya or Mr colour primers at the moment.

 

[BarryW]

Biggest issue I have found with VJ primer is not peeling, but the inability to sand it to feather edges for minor repairs. I have therefore relegated it to use on priming gaming terrain pieces only. I haven’t used Stynylres as I assumed it was similar. Normally use decanted Tamiya or Mr colour primers at the moment.

It does sand and feather. I used to do it. But you do need it to be fully and properly cured first. Humidity Is the big enemy. Stynylrez is much better than Vallejo both in ‘stickability’ and sanding though you still make sure you clean the plastic. It cures a lot quicker. I moved from Vallejo to Stymylrez and only stopped using that when I discovered MRP which trumps all other brands in every respect.

 

[Komedy]

I am a recent MRP convert and its a joy to spray and so forgiving. I add a little Mr Colour Levelling Thinner. Have not tried their primer of varnishes yet. For primer I am using the Ammo Mig Oneshot which goes down nicely.

Warren

 

[BarryW]

I am a recent MRP convert and its a joy to spray and so forgiving. I add a little Mr Colour Levelling Thinner. Have not tried their primer of varnishes yet. For primer I am using the Ammo Mig Oneshot which goes down nicely.

Warren

The Ammo One Shot is a rebranded Stynylrez so it is very good. The MRP primer is very good but that One Shot is as well.

The MRP varnishes are the best I have found and I have tried a lot of brands.

The main thing is to spray them in very light coats over MRP paint. If you lay it down too thickly it can reactivate the paint underneath and that can be problematical exposing the primer. I would not use anything else though.

 

[Guest]

... I am using the Ammo Mig Oneshot which goes down nicely.

I'll second that.