Looking good Chris, very nice work on the cockpit and pilot.
G
Thanks Ian for stopping by!
Looking again at the pilot I’ve decided to give him / her a wash, so let’s see how that goes!
Looking again at the pilot I’ve decided to give him / her a wash, so let’s see how that goes!
Google search -
F-35's canopy has a forward hinge because there's a lifting fan to the back of the canopy in the B model. Since the canopy is a common part amongst the three models, the models without the lifting fan also have the forward hinge
G
Snatched an hour this afternon and got on with some things I had to do that I wasn't looking forward to.
The first was a little step in the exhaust, which is covered in dimples. I've fixed the seam (I think) and will inspect once reprimed. Any ideas how I might resintate the little dimples that have been unavoidably removed?
Next, the undercarriage.
Ordinarily I would be over the moon that a model manufacturer has thought about weighting the wheels. However, on this occassion I am not displaying it 'on the deck', so weirdly I find myself needing to reinstate the whole tire!
I also need to extend the undercarriage so that this is uncompressed, having already primed the main gear :anguished::tongue-out3::tired::smiling5::smiling5:
The first was a little step in the exhaust, which is covered in dimples. I've fixed the seam (I think) and will inspect once reprimed. Any ideas how I might resintate the little dimples that have been unavoidably removed?
Next, the undercarriage.
Ordinarily I would be over the moon that a model manufacturer has thought about weighting the wheels. However, on this occassion I am not displaying it 'on the deck', so weirdly I find myself needing to reinstate the whole tire!
I also need to extend the undercarriage so that this is uncompressed, having already primed the main gear :anguished::tongue-out3::tired::smiling5::smiling5:
Lovely work so far mate. For a non wingy person and its probably a stupid question, I understand I think that the panels on the fuselage are zig zagged to minimise straight lines to reduce radar signature?? but why are they always painted a different colour around the edges not just the main body colour?
G
Great question! From what I've read, the angular shapes are a measure to reduce the planes radar cross section. The main body is coated in a special stealth coating to reduce it's radar signature and I would guess that the lighter coloured areas are a protective measure, positioned in high wear areas to reduce the potential for damage to the main coating.
G
Cracking on with the undercarriage mods.
Starting with the front leg I removed the torque links, the axle end and cleaned off the remaining oleo strut. I then drilled a 1.2mm hole through the head of the axle mount and the outer oleo leg, glueing in a 1.2mm styrene rod. I then fixed one half of the torque link to the outer leg at a guessed angle, pushed the axle down over the rod and set the other half of the torque link. Once I adjusted them so they met I glued the axle in place.
I repeated this for both the main struts, with the exception of one of the torque links, which pinged off never to be seen again. I had to scratch these from some plasticard.
I recalled once posting that I'd never injured myself with a blade, and today is the day this is no longer correct and to mark the milestone I took a picture. I stabbed myself with the tip of the scalpel whilst working on the exhaust manifold. Evidence here.
Talking of the manifold, the solution I came up with was to drill 28 0.4mm holes and fill with stretched sprue, which will be filed down to approximately the right length and hopefully not look too bad.
Finally for this mornings early start I decided that flattening and glueing sprue to the wheels would provide the solution I need. I'll fill all the gaps and then file down once set.
Starting with the front leg I removed the torque links, the axle end and cleaned off the remaining oleo strut. I then drilled a 1.2mm hole through the head of the axle mount and the outer oleo leg, glueing in a 1.2mm styrene rod. I then fixed one half of the torque link to the outer leg at a guessed angle, pushed the axle down over the rod and set the other half of the torque link. Once I adjusted them so they met I glued the axle in place.
I repeated this for both the main struts, with the exception of one of the torque links, which pinged off never to be seen again. I had to scratch these from some plasticard.
I recalled once posting that I'd never injured myself with a blade, and today is the day this is no longer correct and to mark the milestone I took a picture. I stabbed myself with the tip of the scalpel whilst working on the exhaust manifold. Evidence here.
Talking of the manifold, the solution I came up with was to drill 28 0.4mm holes and fill with stretched sprue, which will be filed down to approximately the right length and hopefully not look too bad.
Finally for this mornings early start I decided that flattening and glueing sprue to the wheels would provide the solution I need. I'll fill all the gaps and then file down once set.
G
This is speculation, but it could be something as simple as to allow ground crew to see where they are more easily, and therefore can avoid stepping on them?
G
What I do know is that I’m not looking forward to painting them!
HI Chris i see an accident again more blood flowin oh dear an i had a little accident yesterday as my over head light has a hot halagen light in it an when i was working on makin a bit for my tiger an the light was very nr my head well smelt a horrible smell only to find my hair had court fire from the light heat now im nr bald lol
chris
chris
G
Are you ok?! That sounds painful!
Mine is the smallest of pin pricks; I’m being intentionally hyperbolic, but setting fire to yourself is something else!
Did you seek advice from John R?
Mine is the smallest of pin pricks; I’m being intentionally hyperbolic, but setting fire to yourself is something else!
Did you seek advice from John R?
Some nice fixes to your little problems Chris, and the work is looking very good.
HI Chris yes it was a might painfull but the missus rubbed some cream on it an i dont think i lost to much hair as i dint have much in the first place lol an so far no blister as i caught it quick an patted the flames out an :thinking:askin J/R he'd just fan the flames as he loves them that much lol:face-with-head-bandage::rolling::smiling:
chris
G
Thanks Ian!
I fully expected to balls it up, so am pleased I didn’t do a terrible job...so far!
AN yes Chris your model is lookin good will it show the lift fan or will you fit the hatch closed ? but whatchout for scapels an such like like im now aware of havin the bloomin light to close
chris
chris
G
You’ll be able to see everything!
Great progress chris , and top work reinstating the details on the exhaust. Cheers tony
G
Having finished my previous project, the Fairey Swordfish, I have a clearer bench and some time to really get on with this.
I finished up the work on all the fixes and reprimed this morning and there was only one thing I was unhappy with. This:
What an absolute bag of spanners. So I set about working out how I might improve it.
I remembered fairly quickly that this kit comes with an alternative straight exhaust, so I had a donor.
So I split the exhaust to be corrected and did what I should have done; sanded the mating faces truly flat, then started chopping out the areas to be replaced.
Using some of my standard tools I started to remove and shape the donor parts.
I ended up with this:
I cleaned this up and squared the edges as best I could. The donor parts had to be made out of two pieces because inexplicably the nozzles are different lengths. I did this in two sittings today but forgot to take photos, but this is how it looks after priming.
MUCH better.
Next up will be white painting and more work on the internals.
I finished up the work on all the fixes and reprimed this morning and there was only one thing I was unhappy with. This:
What an absolute bag of spanners. So I set about working out how I might improve it.
I remembered fairly quickly that this kit comes with an alternative straight exhaust, so I had a donor.
So I split the exhaust to be corrected and did what I should have done; sanded the mating faces truly flat, then started chopping out the areas to be replaced.
Using some of my standard tools I started to remove and shape the donor parts.
I ended up with this:
I cleaned this up and squared the edges as best I could. The donor parts had to be made out of two pieces because inexplicably the nozzles are different lengths. I did this in two sittings today but forgot to take photos, but this is how it looks after priming.
MUCH better.
Next up will be white painting and more work on the internals.
Chris,
That is a superb repair mate.
That is a superb repair mate.
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