discussion The Bobby Oxspring Spitfire Mk1 build....

[BarryW]

The rivets certainly are not subtle but once I get three coats of varnish and washes on they will be OK.

As for the difference in sheen, there is certainly one but the lighting does exaggerate it. As for why...

MRP is a very thin paint with exceptionally fine pigment, in fact it is more ink-like than paint. It is so thin that it is really affected by the surface underneath, even to the extent of sometimes revealing the 'sworls' of plastic from when it was injected into the mold. This quality is one of the good things actually, as it shows how even many coats of paint and varnish do not hide detail. It does mean that the shinier and smoother the surface is where it is sprayed the shinier and smoother the top coat is... The primer is not as smooth and shiny as the Dark Earth that was sprayed onto it, so the Dark Green sprayed onto the Dark Earth looks a bit shinier still.... None of this is an issue as I will be spraying a sealing coat of gloss varnish before washes, then two coats of matt varnish and it will all end uplooking fine with no sheen difference at all. In fact just one good matt or semi-matt varnish coat makes all the difference.

 

[stillp]

Thanks Barry.
Pete

 

[Defiant911]

The rivets certainly are not subtle but once I get three coats of varnish and washes on they will be OK.

As for the difference in sheen, there is certainly one but the lighting does exaggerate it. As for why...

MRP is a very thin paint with exceptionally fine pigment, in fact it is more ink-like than paint. It is so thin that it is really affected by the surface underneath, even to the extent of sometimes revealing the 'sworls' of plastic from when it was injected into the mold. This quality is one of the good things actually, as it shows how even many coats of paint and varnish do not hide detail. It does mean that the shinier and smoother the surface is where it is sprayed the shinier and smoother the top coat is... The primer is not as smooth and shiny as the Dark Earth that was sprayed onto it, so the Dark Green sprayed onto the Dark Earth looks a bit shinier still.... None of this is an issue as I will be spraying a sealing coat of gloss varnish before washes, then two coats of matt varnish and it will all end uplooking fine with no sheen difference at all. In fact just one good matt or semi-matt varnish coat makes all the difference.

I know what you mean about it being thin, the airbrush really goes through it fast. I usually order twice as much now as I would with any other paint.

 

[BarryW]

I know what you mean about it being thin, the airbrush really goes through it fast. I usually order twice as much now as I would with any other paint.

What pressure are you spraying, it is best at 10-15 psi or even lower? I adjust the air pressure (using an in-line fpc) to the minimum that gives me atomisation and up it for cleaning. Also reduce the flow and spray relatively close in.

I found a big reduction in how much paint I was using, it really was surprising

 

[Defiant911]

What pressure are you spraying, it is best at 10-15 psi or even lower? I adjust the air pressure (using an in-line fpc) to the minimum that gives me atomisation and up it for cleaning. Also reduce the flow and spray relatively close in.

I found a big reduction in how much paint I was using, it really was surprising

I generally spray around 20-25psi but as you say being quite thin paint I should perhaps lower the pressure. I'm hoping that two bottles of each colour will be enough for the Lancaster exterior (1:48). Anyway, im probably going off your thread topic , sorry.

 

[BarryW]

I generally spray around 20-25psi but as you say being quite thin paint I should perhaps lower the pressure. I'm hoping that two bottles of each colour will be enough for the Lancaster exterior (1:48). Anyway, im probably going off your thread topic , sorry.

You definitely need to lower the air pressure a lot and one bottle of each should be enough for a 1/48 Lanc. You will get much better results if you do in every way. I would suggest getting an in line air pressure control to supplement the one on the compressor.

 

[Defiant911]

You definitely need to lower the air pressure a lot and one bottle of each should be enough for a 1/48 Lanc. You will get much better results if you do in every way. I would suggest getting an in line air pressure control to supplement the one on the compressor.

Which one would you recommend Barry?

 

[BarryW]

Which one would you recommend Barry?

Gunze do one with a water trap and Harder & Steinbeck do one as well. Take a look and see what suits you, there are plenty around.

 

[BarryW]

I have done an overall semi-gloss coat to seal the decals and I will start doing a pin wash tonight.



I do like to keep an overall tidy work area, it means I have plenty of room and don’t lose anything!

 

[Tim Marlow]

That’s looking really good Barry.

 

[BarryW]

I have done a pin wash using AKI Deep Brown. Next I will do the first matt varnish coat.

 

[BarryW]

After the first matt coat I applied pigment weathering and streaking effects. The streaking was a mix of dark brown wash and two shades of weathering pencils. Blending of the wash was with white spirit and weathering pencils a brush dampened with water.

MRP exhaust stains was airbrushed where appropriate and smoke pigment dry brushed to replicate gun stains.

The pictures are after a final matt coat over the above.



still plenty of weathering to do before final fittings.

oil and kerosene staining to give a different sheen where appropriate is needed.

metal powders need to be used for chipping and wear

a couple of bits of detail painting to do such as wing tip lights.

 

[Steven000]

Looking good barry, I always love the moment when the gloss-goes-to-matt-face, nice progress :thumb2:

 

[BarryW]

Looking good barry, I always love the moment when the gloss-goes-to-matt-face, nice progress :thumb2:

Yes, endeed. There are several points in a build when its nice to sit back and just saviour the moment. When the cockpit interior is done before joining fuselage sides, when the primer is on, when the markings are on and sealed in a gloss coat and, yes when the final matt coat is on..

 

[BarryW]

Well, I have finished the build and I will shortly post a thread in the 'Completed' section

What can I say about this kit....

I am not a fan but you can get a reasonable Mk 1 or Mk 2 out of it by getting aftermarket corrections. The main issue, ignoring the inaccuracies, being the warping of the cheap plastic. I am not really satisfied with this build because of the warped wings which are noticeable when you look at the model from the wrong angle. If a better Mk 1 Spitfire kit, in 1/32 scale, is released then I will do another 'Oxspring' build. I would love Tamiya (unlikely), Zoukie Mura, ICM or HK Models to release one.

However, dodgy as it was at one point, I did get it finished and at most angles it looks fine, not my best work but OK.

Here she is with the cufflinks themselves.... more photos in completed models.

 

[Vaughan]

Well Barry I think it's turned out well despite all your trials and tribulations. Hopefully your next build of the Frogfoot will have less problems.

 

[Steven000]

Very nice model indeed Barry :thumb2:
Steven