The paint i mentioned earlier is the ‘ have glass ‘ grey in the Hataka US Greys set ive got , I’ll get it out and have a look at it and let you know what its like chris , cheers tony
G
Well, this is where we are.
What do we think? Passable?
What do we think? Passable?
Yep, passable :thumb2:
Most definitely.
Jim
Heres the Hataka ‘ have glass ‘ grey chris . I painted it on a piece of white paper to try and give you an idea of what it looks like . Its basically a dark grey with a metallic sheen , in otherwords a dark gunmetal . If you didnt want to go down the route of buying the hataka paint then i reckon a mix of vallejo Model color basalt grey and model air Gunmetal in a ratio of maybe 90 / 10 should give something like . Obviously you’ll have to experiment with the ratios but if youve got the colours then it should be fairly straightforward , hope this helps , cheers tony
G
Interesting....thanks Tony.
Repainting is out of the question, but perhaps a little gun metal in the varnish might work?
I’ll think on it.
Repainting is out of the question, but perhaps a little gun metal in the varnish might work?
I’ll think on it.
G
Have spent some time mucking about with a few varnishing tests.
In each image there are four patches of three coats of the following (top left clockwise):
1. 2/1 gloss varnish / gun metal
2. 3/1 gloss varnish / VMC real steel
3. 2/1/1 gloss varnish / VMC real steel / VMA black
4. 2/1 gloss varnish / VMC real steel
Bottom row has had a matt varnish, which will be satin on the real thing judging from real examples.
Combination 1. gives a good effect, neutralising the colours at an angle, but it's too bright. I'm trying to dull them down a bit and this is doing the opposite.
On the other hand, combo 3 is too dark and adding any pigment creates streaking which I definitely need to avoid.
Overall I think combo 2 is the best.
In each image there are four patches of three coats of the following (top left clockwise):
1. 2/1 gloss varnish / gun metal
2. 3/1 gloss varnish / VMC real steel
3. 2/1/1 gloss varnish / VMC real steel / VMA black
4. 2/1 gloss varnish / VMC real steel
Bottom row has had a matt varnish, which will be satin on the real thing judging from real examples.
Combination 1. gives a good effect, neutralising the colours at an angle, but it's too bright. I'm trying to dull them down a bit and this is doing the opposite.
On the other hand, combo 3 is too dark and adding any pigment creates streaking which I definitely need to avoid.
Overall I think combo 2 is the best.
Chris,
I'm not a wingy person but I recognise great work when I see it.
I'm not a wingy person but I recognise great work when I see it.
Wow, looks like a nigthmare to mask and paint, you did a nice job so far Chris :thumb2:
have fun!
Steven
have fun!
Steven
G
Update No. 13 - Painting cont'd
I said I might not, but I couldn't ignore it. So I spent another collection of hours masking the underside and painting it.
Just prior to painting I found a clog in my airbrush in the collar that sits between the trigger and the paint cup that was grabbing the needle and keeping it open, so while I was cleaning this with nail polish remover, disaster struck. I toppled the bottle in a clumsy swipe of the arm and splashed the corrosive solution all over the place.
Thankfully the model was not completely doused. I started to try to dab it off but realised quickly that the best thing to do was to leave it to evaporate.
Some repairs to the top will be necessary.
I said I might not, but I couldn't ignore it. So I spent another collection of hours masking the underside and painting it.
Just prior to painting I found a clog in my airbrush in the collar that sits between the trigger and the paint cup that was grabbing the needle and keeping it open, so while I was cleaning this with nail polish remover, disaster struck. I toppled the bottle in a clumsy swipe of the arm and splashed the corrosive solution all over the place.
Thankfully the model was not completely doused. I started to try to dab it off but realised quickly that the best thing to do was to leave it to evaporate.
Some repairs to the top will be necessary.
That’s unfortunate Chris. Looks like you can fix it though.
G
I'll definitely be able to fix it, but through my own inability to control my limbs I have added a 5th round of paint application to something I hoped would be 2 rounds!
Feels like it will never end at the minute!
Feels like it will never end at the minute!
Some beautiful work though. PaulE
G
Thank you Paul. I would describe it as pain staking, emphasis on the pain!
Chris,
Glad to know that the accident with the nail varnish remover didn't right off all your hardwork.
Glad to know that the accident with the nail varnish remover didn't right off all your hardwork.
G
It was very close! I had visions of this in the bin, or at least having to strip it and start again!
I've just finished repainting the damaged grey areas and it looks pretty much good as new. Crisis averted I think.
G
Final update for today.
I'm calling the painting finished. I can't face any more masking and am seriously considering monocolour subjects from now on.
So much masking for a couple of panels, leading edges and tails....
I'm calling the painting finished. I can't face any more masking and am seriously considering monocolour subjects from now on.
So much masking for a couple of panels, leading edges and tails....
G
There’s a knack for picking subjects that are easy to build. If I ever find out how, I’ll let you know
Hi Chris
Well despite the near disaster it does look good. Very eyecatching.
Jim
Well despite the near disaster it does look good. Very eyecatching.
Jim
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