WELL it should be Ron so it fits against the mast but since he's gluded it i thought oh well no point sayin Ron unless Carl wants to break it off an fit it up against the abut against the mast ?
chris
HMS DREADNOUGHT 1906
- Thread starter Defiant911
- Start date
chris
That makes sense I guess. It’s easy enough to pull off with such small contact surface. I’ll move it tomorrow.
Sorry Carl, I should have stayed shtum like wot Chris did.
Glad to read it can be easily removed.
Glad to read it can be easily removed.
It’s no problem Ron, hopefully I learn a little from each mistake and thus improve. If it’s possible to rectify then I’ll usually try to correct the mistake .
Carl. That is the modeller's creed for sure. - All model makers, 'til they curl their toes up!
I sprayed up the grey part of the hull and dry fixed the wood just to get a feel of how it may be.
Sadly the hull
Red has seeped through onto my black pin stripe which I suspected would happen as I probably loaded the red a bit too much. So will have to remask and carefull build up the pin stripe black again..
Sadly the hull
Red has seeped through onto my black pin stripe which I suspected would happen as I probably loaded the red a bit too much. So will have to remask and carefull build up the pin stripe black again..
Deck looks good Carl, does not look proud?
Feel your pain, trying to find a article about stopping bleed, if i find it i will post it. I think it said to spray over the tape first??
Feel your pain, trying to find a article about stopping bleed, if i find it i will post it. I think it said to spray over the tape first??
I think the only way is to spray slightly further away at lower pressure and build up in thinner layers to avoid over wetting and running. I’ll test the theory when I respray the black line.
I think decks will be fine, there quite thin and I don’t think it will
Be noticeable
Carl are you usein tamyia maskin tape as i find thats very good but when you are fittin the tape on an over the small rideges on the hull i find you must use a very thin instrement or like me my finger nail to push the tape in each sides of the ridge an that will stop over spill hope this helps
chris
chris
Looking great Carl.
As to bleed through on spraying, there are several things that may help.
The best tape I’ve used is the yellow kabuki tape from Tamiya. Nothing else comes close.
When spraying I find it best to spray away from the tape if at all possible. Spraying into the tape edge just pushes paint into any void it can find.
As Bob says, over spraying the masking first with the previously masked colour can seal the tape edge. On clear parts, using gloss varnish is a good idea. You have to be careful not to build up too much paint at the tape edge though.
Cheers
Tim
As to bleed through on spraying, there are several things that may help.
The best tape I’ve used is the yellow kabuki tape from Tamiya. Nothing else comes close.
When spraying I find it best to spray away from the tape if at all possible. Spraying into the tape edge just pushes paint into any void it can find.
As Bob says, over spraying the masking first with the previously masked colour can seal the tape edge. On clear parts, using gloss varnish is a good idea. You have to be careful not to build up too much paint at the tape edge though.
Cheers
Tim
I did use the Tamiya white 2mm wide tape which is quite stretchy but despite using a cocktail stick to try to push it down either side I find the tape eventually lifts and in effect is sat 45 degrees across the gap.
maybe there is a better solution as this is a common occurrence.
Thanks John, I always feel
Better once I have completed the hull but I’m not quite there yet and anything can go wrong.
OK,
the way I stop bleed is, after applying the masking tape - I use a fine brush, and run a thin bead of varnish over the edge of the tape. Use varnish the same finish as the masked area. The varnish should seal the edge of the tape and prevent any colour bleed - any varnish bleed will not show on the masked area ( ie matt, or gloss ).
I use acrylics only, but should work with enamels.
Dave
the way I stop bleed is, after applying the masking tape - I use a fine brush, and run a thin bead of varnish over the edge of the tape. Use varnish the same finish as the masked area. The varnish should seal the edge of the tape and prevent any colour bleed - any varnish bleed will not show on the masked area ( ie matt, or gloss ).
I use acrylics only, but should work with enamels.
Dave
Hi Dave, so I’m clear on this, you varnish over the edge of the tape onto the part your about to spray so in affect when you spray your spraying over a small edge of varnish as well?
Carl,
It's clear varnish, I'm talking about.
I apply the masking tape, pressing it down at the edges as normal
I then brush apply clear varnish over the edge of the masking tape. overlapping onto the clean non-taped surface.
Allow to dry.
Spray main colour - overlapping onto the masking tape.
Remove Tape
The clear varnish should seal any gaps & prevent colour bleed. I thin the varnish as lot, then feather the edge on the clean surface, so it fades out..................
Dave
It's clear varnish, I'm talking about.
I apply the masking tape, pressing it down at the edges as normal
I then brush apply clear varnish over the edge of the masking tape. overlapping onto the clean non-taped surface.
Allow to dry.
Spray main colour - overlapping onto the masking tape.
Remove Tape
The clear varnish should seal any gaps & prevent colour bleed. I thin the varnish as lot, then feather the edge on the clean surface, so it fades out..................
Dave
I could try some of my humbrol clear Matt varnish then
As long as the boot topping is matt!
Dave
HI Carl anything eles happening on this ?
chris
chris
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