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1 350 HMS Daring, float or sink lol

Hi Chris,
Sorry,it does read a bit cryptic doesn't it!
What I was trying to say was,as I struggle with building a tank that's smaller than 1/72 scale, which scale Battleship kit would be best for me to try?.....
That is IF I were to add one to the stash!! ;)
Andy
WELL Andy if you struggle with building a tank that's smaller than 1/72 scale, an you are thinkin of a ship than i dont think you would be able to do a 1/350th battle ship as they have very small parts an if you did say a 1/72 scale ship it woud be in the same size as my tiger at about 8ft long an i dont think you want that do you ?

chris
 
WELL Andy if you struggle with building a tank that's smaller than 1/72 scale, an you are thinkin of a ship than i dont think you would be able to do a 1/350th battle ship as they have very small parts an if you did say a 1/72 scale ship it woud be in the same size as my tiger at about 8ft long an i dont think you want that do you ?

chris
Indeed not!! I think I'll give it a miss then,I did a Revell U Boat about 6 years ago,(can't remember the scale),and that was a struggle!
Thanks for your input :)
Andy
(P.S....... you got an 8 ft Tiger?!! )
Apologies for hijacking your thread Bob.
 
Indeed not!! I think I'll give it a miss then,I did a Revell U Boat about 6 years ago,(can't remember the scale),and that was a struggle!
Thanks for your input :smiling3:
Andy
(P.S....... you got an 8 ft Tiger?!! )
Apologies for hijacking your thread Bob.
Yes Andy im building my hms tiger in 1/72 scale an it is nr 8ft long
chris
 
Andy, you’re thinking about this all wrong mate…..as the scale decreases the smallest kit parts don’t get any smaller. Size is dictated by moulding technology. What changes is the resolution of the thing you are building. Take an armour weld line on a 1/35th tank as an example. You not only should be able to see the weld, but also the weld texture. To make a properly characterful model you need to add that weld. When you drop to 1/72 the weld line will probably still be visible, but the texture is unlikely to be noticeable, and if added will be far out of scale. If the weld is missed out, it won’t detract much , if anything, from the model…. Drop again to 1/144 and the weld is not distinguishable….so nothing is lost if it’s missed off.
Ships in 1/350 are the same, enough parts should be in the kit to add character, but the smallest things get left off as impractical to make or irrelevant to the appearance of the kit.
What I’m saying (or trying to say) is that if you can build in 1/35 you can build at any other scale, you just recalibrate your “modellers eye” to what you can reasonably be expect to see.
 
Thread owner
I find 1 350 or 1 35 ideal for my peepers and sanity lol

Airfixs 1 600 is ok but 1 700 is the norm now, never tried one? The other prob is the inceasing prices of 1 350

Daring is just practice for me
 
I find 1 350 or 1 35 ideal for my peepers and sanity lol

Airfixs 1 600 is ok but 1 700 is the norm now, never tried one? The other prob is the inceasing prices of 1 350

Daring is just practice for me
HI Bob m8 this is just a bit confusein to me regards the scales Tim an you are talking about yes 1/350 th is an ok scale for a battle ship but in 1/35 it would be huge as it would be only 35 times smaller than the real ship or am i reading your blog wrong sorry if i am guys
chris
 
If anyone can make a fist of assembling individual track links on a 1/35 model, then a ship model should hold no fears - if you use PE details on your AFV, you've got the skills to do the same on a small scale ship. As already mentioned, 1/350 models are getting expensive, but 1/700 is common & not expensive - it depends on your interest levels & how deep your pockets are! John has the Tammy Rodney or Nelson < £12, and the King George V at < £15 ( not including the discount! ) - not too bad for dipping your toes.
You might know that I vary my subjects a lot, but ships are still a favourite
Dave
 
Thread owner
HI Bob m8 this is just a bit confusein to me regards the scales Tim an you are talking about yes 1/350 th is an ok scale for a battle ship but in 1/35 it would be huge as it would be only 35 times smaller than the real ship or am i reading your blog wrong sorry if i am guys
chris
I 35 in armour or StuG Chris. My god a 1 35 KGV!!!!
 
HI Bob m8 this is just a bit confusein to me regards the scales Tim an you are talking about yes 1/350 th is an ok scale for a battle ship but in 1/35 it would be huge as it would be only 35 times smaller than the real ship or am i reading your blog wrong sorry if i am guys
chris
Chris, I think you are misunderstanding what I’m trying to say. The kit parts produced by any model manufacturer cannot get any smaller than the technology used to produce those kit parts is able to make them. Regardless of kit type or scale the smallest parts on any kit cannot be smaller than those in any other. in real terms this means that just because a kit is 1/350, or even 1/700, it smallest part will not be any smaller than the smallest part on a 1/35, or even 1/12 scale model kit. If you can build kits in one scale you can therefore build kits in any other scale. The skill set required is the same!
 
The only exception IMHO is rigging. Tying knots or gluing almost invisible line is tougher than same w/wire, thread or string.
 
Thread owner
Hiding in the shade, due to ME no energy or bugger all else, but

The kits hull as a line all the way around and its not the boot topping
20210613_133056.jpg
The box art does not show it but the plans do. Some models have it others do not?

Found some close up pictures of the ships and cannot see one, apart from a picture of HMS Duncan's stern and it looks like a line but only on the stern and a bit on the hull??
 
+1 on the waterline mark. Surprised it isn’t on the inside though…if you don’t use it you need to fill it!
 
Hiding in the shade, due to ME no energy or bugger all else, but

The kits hull as a line all the way around and its not the boot topping

The box art does not show it but the plans do. Some models have it others do not?

Found some close up pictures of the ships and cannot see one, apart from a picture of HMS Duncan's stern and it looks like a line but only on the stern and a bit on the hull??
Properly the best place Bob, that's where i'm off to as well. You build them and I'll watch , just too small for me having just read Dave's post.
 
Thread owner
+1 on the waterline mark. Surprised it isn’t on the inside though…if you don’t use it you need to fill it!
Hi Tim

Did not think it would be so high and its not even a lightly scriped line

Properly the best place Bob, that's where i'm off to as well. You build them and I'll watch , just too small for me having just read Dave's post.
Afternoon John

Too hot for me, i should live in Iceland and not the land of frozen chips lol
 
Hi Tim

Did not think it would be so high and its not even a lightly scriped line


Afternoon John

Too hot for me, i should live in Iceland and not the land of frozen chips lol
Looking at the box art I see exactly what you mean Bob…..not sure what it’s for then…..
 
Thread owner
Think may have dropped one lol

Using Tamiya and have the hull grey on order from John BUT, remembered that Tamiya is terrible to brush paint, after spraying the decks i will have lots of items to brush paint in hull grey, bugger

So do i look for vallejo to brush paint and hope its the same colour as Tamiya or forget using Tamiya???
 
You'll get loads of contradictory answers Bob!

I can only type what I've found to be the case.

I only brush paint and Tamiya is awful to brush on, particularly large areas of plastic.

Whereas, Vallejo 'Air' brushes on like a dream. Same goes for Vallejo 'Colour' but that is slightly thicker than 'Air'.

To be honest, I wouldn't beat yer sel' up about exact colour/shade matches.

There again, I'm a fully paid up member of 'The Near Enough' Club.... :upside:
 
Can’t you spray all of the grey, then paint the other bits with Vallejo or such?
 
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