discussion AFV Club 1/35 Centurion Mk5/2 with 105mm gun

[Guest]

I really hope either the gun barrel is still loose, or the fume extractor is … you have it hanging underneath the barrel when it should be on top:

View attachment 504539

The clear parts on the glacis plate are the tank’s headlights. I have no idea why, but until the Mk. 5 these were two hooded lights above each other. At least at the Mk. 6 they saw sense and put normal headlights on both sides of the glacis.

 

[scottie3158]

The lead wire is just the beginning this is how the madness begins.

 

[Mickc1440]

I really hope either the gun barrel is still loose, or the fume extractor is … you have it hanging underneath the barrel when it should be on top:

View attachment 504539

The clear parts on the glacis plate are the tank’s headlights. I have no idea why, but until the Mk. 5 these were two hooded lights above each other. At least at the Mk. 6 they saw sense and put normal headlights on both sides of the glacis.

only fitted for show but thanks anyway I’d not have known. you can build a Mk6 with this kit and it’s 4 headlights

The lead wire is just the beginning this is how the madness begins.

Nope I will not be seduced by the dark side

 

[Mickc1440]

A little more progress on the turret but had to stop as our dog needed a vets visit, really wish they would pull a knife on you so I feel like you’ve been robbed correctly. Anyway back to the kit, as I said at the start of this project it’s a first ever ARV Club kit, some of you will be used to how they design their kits but several things I just don’t get or particularly like. There’s a flat PE disc on top, there’s a place to mount it and a locating hole but it’s just a flat disc, there’s no reason for it to be PE. Then there’s the use of all clear parts when only a tiny bit of it is left clear and requires some skilful masking, the top of the commanders hatch being one such part, it’s 95% hull colour with little vision blocks. There’s also another all clear part in the pic that didn’t fit the moulded hole and you can actually see into the turret. I’m not the best modeller but these parts could have been moulded on the normal sprue surely? If I’m doing this wrong I’m sure you’ll point me in the right direction

 

[Guest]

I think the idea with the clear cupola is that the periscopes are so small that moulding them separately would make masking even more difficult. TBH, I don’t bother at all — I don’t mask them at all, paint over them, and then paint them matt black to be followed by a coat of graphite from a pencil. The clear part at the left front of the turret is the loader’s periscope. Here’s a view of (nearly) all of them:

As for the round etched part, I’m not sure either. Off the top of my head, I think there are also Centurions that have a more raised ventilator there, which would be supplied as a plastic part, but the blanking plate for when the ventilator isn’t fitted is thin enough that they didn’t want to do it in plastic?

 

[Mickc1440]

I think the idea with the clear cupola is that the periscopes are so small that moulding them separately would make masking even more difficult. TBH, I don’t bother at all — I don’t mask them at all, paint over them, and then paint them matt black to be followed by a coat of graphite from a pencil. The clear part at the left front of the turret is the loader’s periscope. Here’s a view of (nearly) all of them:

As for the round etched part, I’m not sure either. Off the top of my head, I think there are also Centurions that have a more raised ventilator there, which would be supplied as a plastic part, but the blanking plate for when the ventilator isn’t fitted is thin enough that they didn’t want to do it in plastic?

I’m thinking exactly the same Jakko and just slapping the paint over them.

 

[Jim R]

Very good progress Mick. The way they have used clear parts is a new one on me although Jakko's reasoning makes sense.
Vet bills can certainly come as a bit of a shock!

 

[Guest]

I’ve tried keeping clear periscopes clear on some models, but I reached the conclusion that I don’t see the point unless you can see both sides of one.

 

[Mickc1440]

Very good progress Mick. The way they have used clear parts is a new one on me although Jakko's reasoning makes sense.
Vet bills can certainly come as a bit of a shock!

thanks Jim, they are eye watering at times

I’ve tried keeping clear periscopes clear on some models, but I reached the conclusion that I don’t see the point unless you can see both sides of one.

Excellent point

 

[Mickc1440]

Quick update, started undercoating today using GW chaos black, hopefully more time tomorrow to do some more.

 

[Ian M]

A nice build Mick. I dont know why but have not built a Centurion. (too hung up on WWII I guess). This looks to be a good kit to have a pop at.

 

[Mickc1440]

A nice build Mick. I dont know why but have not built a Centurion. (too hung up on WWII I guess). This looks to be a good kit to have a pop at.

Thanks Ian,

 

[Mickc1440]

Slow progress due to work but it’s getting there, trying to get the mantles to stick, tracks being built up then got to painting these side skirts. There have been several times when I’ve wondered what were they thinking, latterly the turret mounted machine gun, 6 parts 5 of which are plastic and then one PE? Now these have to qualify as the flimsiest large parts I’ve ever come across, I have paper thicker than this?

 

[andy55]

OK not built much as yet only just returning to modelling, but there does seem to be a case of adding more PE just to get the number of parts up.

 

[Mickc1440]

OK not built much as yet only just returning to modelling, but there does seem to be a case of adding more PE just to get the number of parts up.

This does come complete with a small PE fret but just random parts that really don't add much to it

 

[Guest]

IMHO, AFV Club usually use etched parts where they do make a difference, to get things much closer to scale thickness than they would be in plastic.

 

[Waspie]

Nice choice Mick.
Problem points.
The internal grills at the rear can be a bit awkward, but they are hidden.
The track guards need watching to make sure they are horizontal to the ground, I made a jig to hold them.
The turret top can develop a distinct lip between it and the sides, and the join at the rear.
The headlight brush guards can become broken. (new 3D ones are available from Scorpion Scale Models) As are the engine hatch handles.
Workable tracks.
They can be a bit frustrating, trying to clip them together, and will have a tendancy to come apart at crucial moments...
Resin tyres are available as a replacement for the rubber ones again from Scorpion.
Suspension arms/rods will hold together without the need for the hot nail head treatment.
Track tensioner can be left loose untill you fit the tracks and then the tension can be taken up.
Other than these points the kit itself is well woth the effort, and using the resin items from Scorpion other later marks can be built.
Will sit at the back and watch with interest.
Mike

But apart from the points noted?????

 

[Guest]

Hello Mick,
I see you are still progressing in the right direction towards the end. Those 'bazooka' plates I have always replaced with either thicker card or brass, but they are no problem, just my choice.
But above all it is not a bad kit. We all swooned when Tamiya brought out their Centurion and Chieftain and this AFV offering is a big improvement as is the Meng Chieftains.
But now you have almost built one, you have to go the whole hog and build other versions....

 

[Guest]

But now you have almost built one, you have to go the whole hog and build other versions....

At least that gives plenty of choice, from a Mk. I to an Olifant Mk. 2 to a BARV or a bridge layer. Not quite one of those vehicles where you can build variants for the rest of your life without ever doing the same one twice (like, say, M113s, Shermans, T-34s, etc.) but getting there …

 

[Mickc1440]

Hello Mick,
I see you are still progressing in the right direction towards the end. Those 'bazooka' plates I have always replaced with either thicker card or brass, but they are no problem, just my choice.
But above all it is not a bad kit. We all swooned when Tamiya brought out their Centurion and Chieftain and this AFV offering is a big improvement as is the Meng Chieftains.
But now you have almost built one, you have to go the whole hog and build other versions....

Thanks for looking in Mike, I’ve now fitted them they just seem a little flimsy compared to the rest of the kit.