discussion Artesania Latina 1/50 - Dallas Revenue Cutter New York 1815

[bluriusz]

@Graham D cheers. I wasn't sure as if you follow the plans it'll tell you that there should be pins in. Good, some work saved

 

[Guest]

I was just re-reading the posts about plank bending. I just saw the post saying that the kit was 35 year old. The wood does become more brittle with age, which might explain why it split when you soaked it, and I had no problems .

 

[papa 695]

Iv'e never built a boat in wood but seeing what you have achieved so far it looks very good indeed. Looking forward to more updates

 

[bluriusz]

Ufff, It's been a while since my last update. Had some guest for a week, then Telford and visiting brother. Finally, hungry for modelling I've managed to do something

Keelson is on:

It looks more like a ship now

As the planking is done, I can finally work on some bits that go on the deck.

But first I did channels on the sides. Then I moved to bell tower which was easy. Well, fastening bell on that piece of brass was a bit of a challenge, but sorted

In the meantime I've done the splashboard (that was a nightmare, as the wood was quite hard and needed to be drilled at correct angle). Have placed the knighthead bitts on too:

The same from the back:

Can't wait to do more tomorrow

 

[bluriusz]

Hello.

Some more work done.

And again, what should be a nice enyoing work is quite annoying, because of the plans. Plans, instructions and pictures doesn't match at all. Simple hour work extends to three hours work, because I basically need to plan in all by myself. I don't really know if this is how it should be as it is my first ship build, but it's kinda joke..

You simply can't work depending on the dimensions given in instructions. Now I know that I need to plan it before using any glue and stuff.

What I've managed to finish so far:

Gratings and chimney:

And a hatch with cannonballs:

Sorry about white balance on pictures, but it's not easy to take pictures with poor light I have and I didn't wanted to take out my "studio" to do in progress pictures.

Thanks, see you soon.

Bart.

 

[flyjoe180]

Well that is looking A1!

 

[Guest]

considering you have never built a wooden ship before you have done a very good job and as i found out myself AL's idea of beginner and ours are two different things,just remember to take your time and double check things especially when it comes to rigging as plans and booklet on mine at least dont match up and always remember when you plank the hull do it evenly ie one plank one side then one plank the other side as usually if you plank all one side then try the other you will find it has twisted or bowed the hull but well done and if you need any advise just ask

cheers steve

 

[bluriusz]

Quick update.

I've done cannon base and riggings. Again, not an easy one. No information in the instruction about how to make the riggings, how to use blocks etc. If that's a begginers kit, I don't want to even see na pro kit..

But the result is well.. Rather nice

@steve244 : thanks. If I'll have any questions, I'll ask, for sure Oh! there is one. Do you finish the hull at the end by waxing it somehow? What should I use? I've seen somewhere that people use oil for wood, but not sure about it.

Thanks,

Bart.

 

[Guest]

You have got the cannon rigging correct. On the wooden models I have made, I used a matt varnish, you can use oil as well, it all depends on what type of finish you want. The oil will give a satin sheen on the wood.

 

[bluriusz]

@Graham D : thanks. I found someone who did Dallas and have some reference photos instead of just text

Should I put some dirt on the ropes?

 

[Guest]

@Graham D : thanks. I found someone who did Dallas and have some reference photos instead of just textShould I put some dirt on the ropes?

I haven't put dirt on the ropes as I do not use white, but cream or black thread for ropes. I might look better to tone down the white a bit. You can stain the thread with tea to give it a light brown colour. I have also, when I ran out of black, stained the thread with black ink, but it did make the tread very stiff once the ink had dried.

 

[Guest]

i used danish oil and beeswax on the hull of my hms supply which gives it a nice colour and protects the wood its a personal thing others may use varnish i just went with what pleased me as i did'nt want to paint the hull, also you may know this tip but i use a double sided tape to coil the ropes and then a wash of pva glue to fix it when dry just peel the coil off the tape

cheers steve

 

[bluriusz]

@steve244: I took your advice and used oils. I put Finishing Oil on and the result is outstanding. Wood colour is much deeper and more attractive. I oiled not only the hull, but the deck and all furnishings on the deck too.

In the meantime I've been working on the deck house and pumps.

Next is the rudder and t-bits. After that is just masting and riggings

It looks a bit yellowish on the pictures, but it's not as yellow as you can see. Once it will be finished I'll do proper pictures

Thanks.

 

[Guest]

Looking good, I like caulking between the deck planking

 

[Guest]

Your doing a great job their she is looking very nice,when you get round to doing the rigging invest in a couple of needle threaders if you hav'nt got one already as this will make it easier for threading blocks and get some blocks of beeswax to run your thread along as this will remove any fuzzyness on the thread and it makes it stiff and easier to work with, have a look on my hms supply thread you may find something helpfull

cheers

steve

 

[bluriusz]

Thanks @steve244. I've used normal wax from a candle for now to do the railings. I'll buy a proper beeswax possibly tomorrow, as I'll need it as hell. The deck is FINISHED! Yeah Now a lot of work with the masts and riggings. Well, I thought that will be a matter of correct ties etc, but apparently all supplies masts need to be sanded to desired diameter, like 6mm on the bottom and 4 on the top, then 2mm at the very top. What I have at the moment is just 6mm. I have no idea how to do it so far. Any suggestions?

Meanwhile, the pictures!:

And slightly bigger photo:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cuxiKaidLTA/VJXAi0vZKFI/AAAAAAAACo0/oGR20v3ePyU/w1500-h505-no/DSC_6954.JPG

My deadline for this ready to be for Christmas failed.. Too much overtime at work..

Well, next year then

See you soon.

 

[Ian M]

That is looking very tidy and err ship shape! This is going to be great when finished.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

i have seen people put the mast into a drill and then either just use a strip off a sheet of sandpaper turn on the drill and run the sandpaper up and down the length of dowel but beware as this could burn your fingers due to the friction or put some sandpaper around a spare block of wood then its just a matter of sanding it down to the correct diameter, hope this helps

cheers steve

 

[bluriusz]

@steve244 I come up with preety much the same idea. I hope I won't ruin it I had a look on the plans and.. well they're worse then the worst Dragon instructions I'll manage anyway! See you some time after Christmas.

thanks for the help!

 

[Guest]

thats fine just take it steady invest in a pair of digital callipers if you have'nt got any they're cheap enough off amazon and that idea is better than trying to sand it down in your hand as you will end up with flat edges, the plans should be to scale so in theory you can measure your dowel off the plan just remember to do a bit at a time and check the mast with the hole in the deck as sometimes that can be bigger than the dowel was in the first place.

cheers steve