discussion Best type of AB ?

[Alan 45]

As the title says , well I just got an AB set aerosol type and it works fine but you lose too much pressure when the can goes below half way but I also think the AB is at fault as it uses a system of pushing air upwards instead of along a tube

This is the one I've got very basicView attachment 82954

Now this is fine I get good cover and smooth finish but the drop of pressure causes a splutter which then ruins the finish.
1st would this work better with a compressor ?

2nd is this a flaw with the design and the better tube with paint pot on top be better.

3rd what is the best paint to use , I've used humbrol and revell acrylic so far and found that it does dry very quickly and blocks the nozzle at the top of the paint pot

Any help is greatly received thanks

View attachment 195977

 

[PaulTRose]

a compressor would help as the air pressure would be more constant and you can regulate it........drop or increase it as you want.....you cant do that with canned air, and you have no idea how much is in the can as you use it. when i started out with one of those it would always run out just when you needed it most. its also very expensive!

if cost is an issue i know Badger do an adaptor to use a car spare wheel, cos i had one of those for a while

a compressor is a great investment

revell aquas are ok if you get the mix right, could never get on with humbrol.............if you can get hold of vallejo they are brilliant, straight out of the bottle

 

[Alan 45]

a compressor would help as the air pressure would be more constant and you can regulate it........drop or increase it as you want.....you cant do that with canned air, and you have no idea how much is in the can as you use it. when i started out with one of those it would always run out just when you needed it most. its also very expensive!if cost is an issue i know Badger do an adaptor to use a car spare wheel, cos i had one of those for a while

a compressor is a great investment

revell aquas are ok if you get the mix right, could never get on with humbrol.............if you can get hold of vallejo they are brilliant, straight out of the bottle

Thanks mate that's a big help , price isn't really an issue as I can get a compressor for £40 on eBay so that's no problem

I'll ask at my LHS and see if he can get some Vallejo he does have the acrylic but not seen any other type in there

Thanks again

 

[Ian M]

Vallejo only make acrylic paints...

Make sure they are thinned and it will help a lot.

with the one you have you can also sdjust the amoumt of paint that comes out ny screwing the nozzel that comes from the jar up or down.

 

[Alan 45]

Thanks Ian , I have adjusted it to how I want so there's not a problem , I think my problem is thinning paint to much or not enough and the pressure thing

I'm thinking of trying enamels or tamiya paints as I have them as well

The problem with acrylic is is dries faster so clogs that little nozzle on to of the pot

 

[Guest]

The word on this forum is generally that an AB with a paint cup on top (gravity fed) is often the best bet. But if yours is now working, stick with it, just wipe the opening in the paint jar after every 20 sec. of spraying time or immediately before not spraying for more than 20 secs (assuming acrylic paint). Now and again I use a brush (on the nozzle of my gravity cup AB) wet with AB cleaner to keep it clean, although paint collects there rarely. Yes, acrylic paint dries very quickly compared to enamels but this makes it possible to do another coat of the same colour 30 minutes later, or longer if a different colour, (but not within 24 hours if a varnish is to cover it). Also, being able to clean the AB and brushes in water is a huge convenience,I think.

Since I started 15 months ago I have used acrylic only, mainly Vallejo Model Air (not Model Colour) but also a little of Xtracrylix and Ravell. I now keep to Vallejo, partly because you can spray straight from the bottle (no thinning needed in normal circumstances but thin if you want to) and the small dropper spout on their bottles allows controlled quantities of paint to be put into the AB. I really don't like the jars or wide-mouthed containers that Tamiya, Xtracryllic, Revell and Humbrol use. I find that the paint dries on the lip of the jars and on the thread which risks flakes going into the AB (not a good idea!). In fact, as soon as I make another order from the shop I will get several empty Vallejo bottles for such non-paint things as Mr. Surfacer 500 (a semi-liquid filler). The filler is in a wide-mouthed jar with a full-size plastic cap underneath which is very messy to open and use. A Vallejo-style dropper bottle (with an M4 nut inside as a shaker/stirrer) seems ideal.

 

[Guest]

Alan with the cans when they lose pressure have a dish of warm water to hand and pop the can in it. this re-pressurises the can.

 

[Alan 45]

Thank you Steve that some good advice cheers

Terry thanks for the info I can practice a bit more now

Thanks to all for your advice and tips it's been a big help

 

[Guest]

One last thing Alan - if you decide to go with vallejo paints, invest in a jar of Windsor & Newton flow improver. It costs less than a fiver usually & adding a drop to each cup of paint will prevent tip drying & smooth out the finish.

 

[Alan 45]

Thank you Patrick will this work on other acrylic ?

 

[Guest]

I haven't tried it with Tamiya acrylics - I'd be careful with them as chemically they are really synthetic lacquers.

I've heard Humbrol & Revell acrylics are fine with it although I can't vouch from personal experience.

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

In 2 1/2 years back at the bench 99% of the paint I have used has been Tamiya, never had any flakes drop in the jars as I wipe them after each use the same when I use Mr Surfacer, I use IPA ( alcohol ) to thin my paints.

I started with a simple Badger 200 airbrush that was bottom fed and later purchased an Iwata airbrush. At the end of the day its down to preference and budget, the compressor will allow you greater control and will pay for itself soon enough if you look at the cost of each can of air.

There is a modeller in our club that never uses an airbrush yet you wouldn't know it on the finishes he has on his builds just shows you its each to there own I guess

Adrian

 

[Alan 45]

I agree Adrian , I've only got one because of shallow panel lines but I have been impressed by the finish so I'll keep plugging away and if it's not for me then I'll stick with the hairy stick because although my builds aren't as good as they could be I'm happy with them and I enjoy it

As you say each to there own

 

[Gern]

I agree Adrian , I've only got one because of shallow panel lines but I have been impressed by the finish so I'll keep plugging away and if it's not for me then I'll stick with the hairy stick because although my builds aren't as good as they could be I'm happy with them and I enjoy it As you say each to there own

It's gotta be worth a good try Alan - even if you only ever use it to cover large areas with base colour or primer like I do. It's so much quicker and, for me anyway, the biggest advantage is no brush marks.

Gern

 

[Alan 45]

It's gotta be worth a good try Alan - even if you only ever use it to cover large areas with base colour or primer like I do. It's so much quicker and, for me anyway, the biggest advantage is no brush marks.Gern

I agree Dave I've seen builds using AB and was a bit worried about it even though I used to spray big machinery for a living but I took the plunge and without the problems I'm impressed I just need to get a better set up and I'll do the large areas and finish off with the brush for weathering and detail.

 

[Guest]

Stay away from compressed air cans-they have terrible performance. The best thing I did was to get an air compressor with a pressure gauge and water trap. Funny, I actually find the Mr Hobby colours are the best. True, the lids always gum up, but the paint quality is the best in my terms.

John