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C17A

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Oh well I started my Revell C17A today my third plane build and I think I have spoilt it already. I wanted to do it with the loading bay doors open so I cut along the line marked on the part to have the door open and I must have been holding the knife at an angle ,because on the underside its not quite on the panel line and I have slightly cut into the body, I am hoping when it's all put together it won't notice but it does at the moment.
 
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Hi all not very experienced with planes, as I am doing my own livery on it is it ok to mask up the body and spray it separate from the wings, as it seems to me it would make it easier to mask up or am I going to cause myself a headache later on.
 
You say you have cut into the body slightly?.You should be able to repair it with filler and sand it down .Then the damage will disappear when you paint over it.And you should be able to paint the wings separately.Try fitting them to the fuselage without glue.If they are a good fit without any gaps you should be able to paint them separately.Just be careful when you eventually glue them on not to use too much glue.Otherwise it will squeeze out of the join onto your nice paintwork.If I was building this kit I would glue the wings on before painting so I could sort out any problems with the joint to the fuselage.But I would leave the engines off until after painting to make painting easier.
 
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Thanks Dave as I say have only built three planes, well when I say 3 I am including the c17a which of course I haven't built yet the other 2 were a bae red arrow and a spity both 1/72 so all and any help and tips gratefully accepted.
 
Like Dave said, make up the main aircraft, you can leave wheels and engines and other danging things until later. Then fill/sand to get nice joins/seams, mask your windows off, paint away. It is easier to paint the main lighter colour first and then do your cheat lines after that in the darker colour.
 
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I think I will do a bit of both as looking at it I think I can I will mask it up then stick the wings on, I am pretty sure I can do that with out fouling anything else (famous last words) so if after I stick the wings on there are any gaps in can fill them, I do have some play as it will be my own livery so if it looks like it may foul somewhere I may be able to alter it. Must admit I am a bit apprehensive my normal thing is boats, and even when I was into plastic 30 odd years ago it was mainly cars or motorcycles with the occasional train or truck. Trouble is there are so many ways to ruin a model. I only recently discovered these forums and used to think my ships and boats were pretty good, but since finding these forums I have realized that, I am just a little below average, if I am being honest. But I do get a lot of encouraging on these forums too, you guys and gal are amazing give yourselves a well deserved pat on the back. Thanks for being there.

Ken P.
 
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Hi all well I have left it for tonight its come close to being thrown at the wall a few times tonight and I have barely started it. The inner body bit (don't know what you call it ) where it sticks to the floor, it wont, it's stuck all the way along apart from the last 1/2 inch which won't I have even tried superglue trouble is you can't peg it or tape it with masking tape till its dry as that just makes it twist so you just have to hold it together till you think the glue has dried then a minute or so later ping it opens up again, grrrr not enjoying this, wondering if this is a sample of what's to come with the rest of this kit.
 
Can you get hold of some zip kicker? It's a spray to get CA superglue to dry instantly. Failing that, baking powder does the same thing but your joint will be seen - does that matter if it's on the inside?

Gern
 
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No I don't think it will be seen will have to check out some completed models but I am pretty sure it won't be so thanks for that.
 
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Hi all I finaly managed to get it to stick here is where the problem was

as you can see its well and truly stuck now.

here is where I am at now

I realise the colours are not per instructions but it si my own livery after all
 
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A small update.

got some pretty bad release pin holes to fill on the undercarrage doors

also this wing is well and truly warped

I cant remember ever having to use so many pegs to hold any part of any model down before

is this generally a bad model or have I got a dodgy one.
 
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That's just like my Tomcat Ken! I think sometimes Revell's quality control isn't up to par.
 
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Thanks dubster nice to know about prob kits maybe we should have a post thingy for just such kits.(or do we already have such a thing)

Anyway I have done some to the suspension (which is very fiddly but at least it seems to fit ok) hoping this is a sign of things to come

after reading further into the instructions I have noticed a problem (for me anyway) the running lights have to be put into the wings and the body then glued together, what do I do about masking them, they are tiny I could not cut masking tape that small nor could I cut round it without damaging the bodywork or wings, how do I get round that. sorry if it seems like a stupid question but not come across this prob with cars or ships(which is what I am used to).
 
Running lights? If they are small lights near the fuselage in the wings you could mask them with Blue or White tac. If you could show us what you mean we may be able to come up with a solution.
 
Mask them before you fit them using Maskol or similar. You'll just need to be careful when handling the kit so you don't rub it off.

Gern
 
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Hi flyjoe and gern will post pics later but I think the bluetack idea sounds good don't have any maskol?
 
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hi here are the pics as promised

they are tiny about 1.5 mill
 
Oh yep, I see them now. You can actually mask these with tape prior to fitting them if you have patience and a sharp blade. Not sure Bluetac will adhere to such a small surface and stay there. Are you hairy brushing or airbrushing KP?
 
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Air brushing the outside usually use brush on small bits.
 
I ask because it may be worth thinking about hand painting around the light area then masking it off, making the masking less fiddly? Then you can airbrush away.
 
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