discussion clear coating

[Lloydy 1978]

Evening everyone,
Im very new to this model building and I'm currently building a number or Bell Kit Rally Cars!!!!! Which I'm enjoying very much!!
Ive come across a problem when applying decals with Hymbrol Decalfix that the tamiya paint is starting to run off!!!
Should i be clear coating every single part?? or should it just be the parts that require Decals???

Thanks for taking the time to read this
Ill be very grateful of any advice given

Rgds

Thomas

 

[Guest]

It might be the case that Humbrol decal fix is too strong for Tamiya paints? Humbrol paints are enamels and thus can handle stronger solvents... (decal softeners and fix are weak solvents, that I'm pretty sure about)
I'm using Tamiya markfit and it's ok-ish on Tamiya paint as long as you don't rub it too much...

It is a good practise to clear coat the areas you are going to apply decals on but clear coats can change the appearance of colours so the safe option is to clear coat the whole model.
If you're going to add a couple of layers of clear coat after the decals it's probably safe to just clear coat the areas for decals.

And to be precise, with clear coat I mean glossy, not flat varnish. It's much easier to apply decals on a glossy surface.

 

[Mr Bowcat]

I've had issues with Decal fix eating into Tamiya paint, even with a coat of W&N Galeria gloss over the top. As Jens said, it might be too aggressive for acrylics.

I changed over to MicroSol & MicroSet for decals and havent had an issue since.

 

[papa 695]

Me I would and do gloss coat all over, if nothing else it protects the paint from knocks and scratches while handling your kit when decaling.

 

[Lloydy 1978]

Thank you everyone for you replys!!!
I've almost finished my first model
Learnt lots on the way and still need to learn more
Another question
When I start me next model
Should i prime, paint and lacquer every single part for the best results???
Also I'm using tamiya x22 with mr levelling thinner!!! I give it a mist coat and then 2 decent coats and the part is gleaming but I fancy it's dying off by the next day!!!!
What am I doing wrong???

 

[flyjoe180]

Decalfix has a reputation for dissolving some acrylic finishes (paint and varnish). It works fine on enamels and certain acrylics. Could be that whatever Decalfix is made of is close or the same as what Tamiya use in their paints.

Should i prime, paint and lacquer every single part for the best results???

No need to do every part prior to assembly. I personally build sub assemblies and treat each to primer and then paint /varnish as required.

 

[Lloydy 1978]

Hi guys
Slowly getting the hang of these models..
Still plenty of room for improving and learning all the time.. I'm using micro sol now and it's is 100% better. I've painted the shell using the colour code of the original car and using car paints!!
Priming, base coat then laquer but for some reason the paint isn't fully hardening for weeks and it seems like it's softening the plastic model???
Is this possible
You can see in the pics where there's marks apearing yet the models not touched anything

 

[Mr Bowcat]

Are you spraying the car paint straight from the can or decanting it and applying with the airbrush?

I'm wondering if you are spraying straight from the can whether the propellant is a bit hot for the plastic.

 

[Lloydy 1978]

Are you spraying the car paint straight from the can or decanting it and applying with the airbrush?

I'm wondering if you are spraying straight from the can whether the propellant is a bit hot for the plastic.

Yes straight from the can!!!!!
Didn't think of decanting it
But I don't think my air brush kit will give a good enough finish

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Thomas
I’m with Bob on this, you are probably putting too much paint on with a car spray can, it’s a bit like watering your garden with a fireman’s hosepipe.....the other issue you may have is that the paint coats are not fully dry when you add the next layer. This could trap solvent under the top coat, which is designed to dry quickly to prevent dust getting trapped in the paint....the solvent can’t get out, so the paint appears to stay tacky....it could also soften the plastic of the model while its trapped....
I would go for very thin coats and leave them 24 hours to properly gas off before recoating....
Cheers
Tim

 

[Guest]

What paints are you using exactly? Your primer, basecoat and clear, are they all the same brand or not?