discussion Doug's 1/72 Academy Ju 87 G-1

[Guest]

Here's my planned offering for this GB. I'm sure it's the same kit as Patrick's, but with older box art (it came from eBay), though Patrick's kit is billed as a G-2. I don't know the difference yet but I'm sure I'll work it out once I start doing my research. I won't be able to start it right away as I've got something else on the go - maybe in a few weeks. I'm looking forward (?) to the customary battle with Academy decals, though maybe it's time to capitulate and look for some aftermarket ones?
View attachment 278041

 

[Ian M]

Look forward to seeing the build Doug.

 

[Thorbrand]

I do like a Stuka, interesting shape designed for low altitude bombing or strafing runs, one of these is on my wish list when i've got through some of the other kits i have

 

[Guest]

Good to see another 1/72 kit in this GB Doug! As far as I know, the differences between the G-1 & the - 2 is that the former is based on the Ju 87 D-3, whereas the latter is from the D-5.

The D-5 had a larger wingspan & the dive brakes (including the fittings) removed. Although if memory serves, the G-1s has their dive brakes removed in the field, with just the mounting points remaining.

 

[Guest]

I've made a start now, while I wait for coats of paint to dry on my current project - interior dark grey is now on. I won't bore you with pictures as one 1/72 Stuka interior painted dark grey looks much like another, and Patrick's already done it.
I've also enlisted a bit of outside help, as you see from the pictures. Masking a Stuka canopy looked too much like hard work, hence the Eduard mask. Also, the kit propeller and spinner look wrong (blades too short and the wrong shape). Extending the blades would be a bit tricky, so I got the Quickboost resin parts to help with this. The spats need a bit of re-shaping too. I could probably have done this myself, but as I was already in touch with Mr Quickboost...
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[Robert1968]

Nice to see another Tank killer on the horizon ( have we got a squadron yet on this GB ??
Looks like a nice offering Doug and with all those extras this looks to be a great build
I'm in to watch this

Regards

Robert

 

[peterairfix]

I will be in from time to time and thanks for joining in.

 

[Guest]

An update on this, just to show I've been making progress (quite quickly by my standards). It's reached the 'aeroplane shaped' stage, where my builds seem to spend a very long time. It went together pretty well, though a few dabs of filler are (I think) visible. I forgot to drill out the locating holes for the underwing radiators and gun mountings (schoolboy error), but they can fairly easily be attached without. I located the gun mountings by pushing them into place on the guns, placing the whole part at the right angle, gluing the mountings to the wings, then removing the guns from the mountings. The resin spats are in place, and the resin propeller went together very easily thanks to the nifty jig they provide. The canopy is masked and 'undercoated' in the interior colour. My plan is to glue the rear guns in place, and the canopy, before spraying the camouflage. I'll have to mask the guns, but I hope it will be easier than masking all the interior. The final picture shows the forest of pegs, tweezers, blue tack etc. holding all the parts I want to paint separately. What did modellers do before clothes pegs and cocktail sticks were invented?
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[Guest]

Mines at about the same stage as yours is Doug. I'm just waiting for my Tamiya scriber from John before I get some primer down.

 

[Robert1968]

This is looking very clean and sharp Doug
The win details look very sharp.
I like the cannons too
This is going to be very nice
Mines about ready for the top coat of white wash ( temp winter colour) been found some practice on some old milk cartons to get the strokes right.I've done the splinter cell but still need to do spinner and im stil awaiting more decals

Regards

Robert

 

[Guest]

I haven't bored everyone with a blow-by-blow account so far, but thought I'd give an update now I've reached the decal stage. Previous traumas with Academy decals have alerted me to possible grief here, so I've attempted to minimise the risk by getting as good a gloss coat as possible, and by experimenting with some of the spare decals on a painted and varnished drinks bottle. So... the search for the world's shiniest Stuka is at an end (two coats of Humbrol Clear sprayed on fairly 'wet'), and I've experimented with different combinations of decal solutions with the spare crosses/codes on a drinks bottle. I have to say the decals don't seem all that bad, especially as regards silvering. I'll know more when it's dried.

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[Guest]

Well, the winner is... Micro Set with Micro Sol (what I've always used, in fact). To be honest, there isn't much in it, especially as the decals seem pretty decent in the first place. I think using hot water to soak the decals made a difference, too. So, now for the proof of the pudding.

 

[Guest]

Looking fantastic

 

[Robert1968]

Well, the winner is... Micro Set with Micro Sol (what I've always used, in fact). To be honest, there isn't much in it, especially as the decals seem pretty decent in the first place. I think using hot water to soak the decals made a difference, too. So, now for the proof of the pudding.

Hi Doug I'm always in the mood to try something new and sorry to be a ( thickie) but I've never used micro sol or set.
I've heard of it and possible in the past come across it.
So Ry how do they conform to instead of using warm water on the decal ( sometimes if not always done my decals this way ) do you soak the decal in the Micro sol until the backing paper releases then onve on the model you use micro set which if I'm understanding this eliminates the air bubbles etc and conforms the decal to the model IE contours etc.
Other thing or question once your decal is dry can they be weathered like the rest of the model.
Reason I'm asking is I've still got the decals to do on my Ju87 but I still want to weather the A/c quite heavily as its posed in winter of 1941 ( lots of mud oil etc )
Your advice on this would be handy
Then I'll tap John at SMS to get both

 

[Guest]

Hi Doug I'm always in the mood to try something new and sorry to be a ( thickie) but I've never used micro sol or set.
I've heard of it and possible in the past come across it.
So Ry how do they conform to instead of using warm water on the decal ( sometimes if not always done my decals this way ) do you soak the decal in the Micro sol until the backing paper releases then onve on the model you use micro set which if I'm understanding this eliminates the air bubbles etc and conforms the decal to the model IE contours etc.
Other thing or question once your decal is dry can they be weathered like the rest of the model.
Reason I'm asking is I've still got the decals to do on my Ju87 but I still want to weather the A/c quite heavily as its posed in winter of 1941 ( lots of mud oil etc )
Your advice on this would be handy
Then I'll tap John at SMS to get both

Hi Robert,
Micro Set and Sol are meant to be used together to help the decal adhere, and, crucially, conform to the surface contours and detail. Both soften the decal, but Sol is much more drastic and is meant to be put on once the decal is firmly attached to the kit. The process is:

• Soak the decal as usual in water (warm helps soften the decal if you think it'll be a bit hard or thick)
• Apply Micro Set to the area where the decal will be applied (this provides some lubrication to slide the decal around, and also softens it a bit)
• Press the decal down to remove air bubbles etc., as normal
• Apply Micro Sol to the decal. At this point the decal will probably wrinkle and look terrible - don't worry, it will settle down as it dries. I usually apply Sol a few minutes after the decal is applied - others may wait longer.
• When everything's dried, if the decal still doesn't look perfect, you can reapply Sol, maybe pricking any air bubbles with a pin, or cutting the decal if needed. Good decals settle in to the panel lines like magic, with just the basic steps outlined above. Less good ones may need a bit more effort.
• After I'm happy with the decals, I clean off the decals and the area around with water, to remove any residue from the solutions. This may not be necessary, but sometimes there's a slight 'tidemark' visible. This has never been visible on the finished model, after the last coat(s) of varnish are applied.
• I then apply a coat of gloss varnish over the decals.
• It should be fine to apply weathering washes, etc. at this stage. I use the Flory water-based ones, but I'm sue oil-based ones will be just as safe.
• Final coat of flat varnish.

It's important not to get Set and Sol mixed up - Sol is the 'dangerous' one as it almost melts the decal, and should only be used when the decal is in place. It's in the red bottle - I take that as a warning!

There's a video here:

, and there are other videos out there. Other decal solutions are also around, which do pretty much the same thing.

 

[Guest]

Hi Robert,
Micro Set and Sol are meant to be used together to help the decal adhere, and, crucially, conform to the surface contours and detail. Both soften the decal, but Sol is much more drastic and is meant to be put on once the decal is firmly attached to the kit. The process is:

• Soak the decal as usual in water (warm helps soften the decal if you think it'll be a bit hard or thick)
• Apply Micro Set to the area where the decal will be applied (this provides some lubrication to slide the decal around, and also softens it a bit)
• Press the decal down to remove air bubbles etc., as normal
• Apply Micro Sol to the decal. At this point the decal will probably wrinkle and look terrible - don't worry, it will settle down as it dries. I usually apply Sol a few minutes after the decal is applied - others may wait longer.
• When everything's dried, if the decal still doesn't look perfect, you can reapply Sol, maybe pricking any air bubbles with a pin, or cutting the decal if needed. Good decals settle in to the panel lines like magic, with just the basic steps outlined above. Less good ones may need a bit more effort.
• After I'm happy with the decals, I clean off the decals and the area around with water, to remove any residue from the solutions. This may not be necessary, but sometimes there's a slight 'tidemark' visible. This has never been visible on the finished model, after the last coat(s) of varnish are applied.
• I then apply a coat of gloss varnish over the decals.
• It should be fine to apply weathering washes, etc. at this stage. I use the Flory water-based ones, but I'm sue oil-based ones will be just as safe.
• Final coat of flat varnish.

It's important not to get Set and Sol mixed up - Sol is the 'dangerous' one as it almost melts the decal, and should only be used when the decal is in place. It's in the red bottle - I take that as a warning!

There's a video here:

, and there are other videos out there. Other decal solutions are also around, which do pretty much the same thing.

Sweet video, I like the look of that stuff, may have to give it a try.

 

[Robert1968]

Thanks Doug and it seems to clear up a lot of fears I had on using the stuff.
I'll defo need to chap Johns door and order some

Kind regards

Robert

 

[Guest]

Well, I've completed this one now. In 39 days (elapsed - not man-days!). I'll post a separate thread in Completed Builds, and reference this GB thread. Hope that's the right thing to do. Apologies to the moderators in advance if I've got this wrong.

 

[flyjoe180]

I'll post a separate thread in Completed Builds, and reference this GB thread. Hope that's the right thing to do.

I think that's the right way to do it Doug. Look forward to seeing the completed Stuka in the aircraft section