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Dragon M7 Priest

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RM6239

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Well with the weather finally starting to cool down, I can get back on the bench and I thought I would visit WWII.

priest.jpg

I won't bother with the sprues as it's a pretty old kit and it looks typically Dragon, with some nice texture where texture should be and no flash that I can see.

First page of instructions only had the one wrong numbered part, way down the bottom, D8 is actually A8.

priest aa.jpg

I removed all the parts from the sprue for this first page, cleaned them up and put them each in their own little baggy.

priest a.jpg

I'll start assembling them all over the next few nights.

cheers
Ross
 
Hi Ross - their checking procedures must consist of someone picking the instruction sheet up and putting it down again without actually reading them!

Off to a good start

I have the 374 page technical manual for the M7, TM9-731E

If you want a copy PM me an email address
 
Hi Ross
We're just warming up here so glad it's cooling for you down there. Sounds like a nice kit. Instructions up to the usual Dragon standards :rolling:Interesting how different people model. Some remove and clean up a lot of parts - Simon T works like that. I tend to to just remove parts as needed.
Jim
 
I downloaded it from some US government document archive - they are no longer subject to copyright and are free to distribute

I offered to send it so that Ross would not have to go looking......
 
I downloaded it from some US government document archive - they are no longer subject to copyright and are free to distribute
In principle, nothing made for the US government is restricted by copyright, which is very handy for modelling purposes.

I offered to send it so that Ross would not have to go looking......
And I gave a link so you wouldn’t have to go send it to him :)
 
Ross,
Good to see you back at the bench. I will pull up a chair and watch this.
 
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Hi Guys

Simon you should still have my email address.
Cheers for the link Jakko.
Jim, I normally do that too but I had time as it was a Sunday, so I thought it would easier during the week.
Welcome Paul, it's good to be back doing something.

After some dry fitting I worked out the easiest way to put the bogies together. This is what they are supposed to look like completed.


priest 1b.jpg

I decided to do them in 3 sections.

Priest 1.jpg

The bottom piece is turned around and put in the middle of the wheel section, then the left most piece is threaded through hole, very easy to do.

With careful gluing everything that needs to move is still movable.

cheers
Ross
 

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Ross.
I always enjoy watching a Dragon build , half the fun is trying to find the incorrect no !
As to removing all from the sprue ! I'd be in a worse state than I get with removing each part as required. :smiling2:
Will grab a seat and follow .
John
 
Thread owner
John, I don't normally remove so many parts at once, usually just what is needed for the step I'm on, this was an experiment.

6 little baggies made up.

priest 2.jpg

Back they go into their little baggies.

Next up the Gun, which looks pretty detailed.

cheers
Ross
 
Certainly get your monies worth on those suspension units Ross., Would you do that again with another build when doing a subsection ?
Looking fwd to the gun .
John .
 
Looks like you have got a lot to keep you going for a while. I wish you all the best and I look forward to seeing it come together
 
Thread owner
John, Yes I think I would, each step was kept in its little baggy, so there was no chance of mix up. It was probably no quicker than the way I normally do it but just being able to do them one after another, it seemed quicker.

Steve, welcome mate.

As with any open vehicle, there is going to be lots of construct then paint, then construct again, so I started to put some of the bits together. The gun was a bit awkward to rest so I just went and mounted it to it's base, it shouldn't make painting and weathering any harder.

priest 2a.jpg

priest 2b.jpg

priest 2c.jpg

Priming time.

cheers
Ross
 
Are you going to drop the floor with the gun in after painting, then? That should at least keep the interior accessible, though I think it would have been easier to keep the gun loose and add the floor into the model. OTOH, the only Priests I’ve ever built have been 1/76 scale :)
 
Thread owner
Jakko, I decided to mount the floor in the body.

Spent the weekend painting various bits and pieces, had to redo the ammo racks as I messed them up.

All the bits.

priest 3.jpg

Sections.


priest 3a.jpg

priest 3b.jpg

priest 3c.jpg

priest 3d.jpg

priest 3e.jpg

In between building the rest and painting I can start weathering up these pieces now.

cheers
Ross
 
Morning Ross from a wet Lincolnshire.
There's some great detail on the kit , top photo from Fridays post for example
Do you remove any paint or mask where you mention about paint then add futher parts ?
It's looking good, I've been looking at a large Russian field gun and thinking should I , or could I. :smirk:
Keep it coming .
John .
 
Are you sure silver is the right colour for the transmission? It seems an unlikely colour if the rest of the interior is olive drab.
 
Thread owner
Evening from a hot New South Wales John, I tend to try and glue as much as I can before painting, sometimes I remove paint, sometimes I will mask where other bits are supposed to go. Only if I can't paint it on the vehicle do I paint on the sprue or separate, like the fire extinguishes in the fourth photo, I think you should give your big gun a try, they can be fun, do you remember this?

steel rain 12d.jpgsteel rain 12e.jpg
steel rain 12f.jpg
It was difficult and it didn't help that I dropped it twice but it turned out ok and it was a fun build, apart from the terrible Dragon instructions.

Jakko, no, it's steel and it won't be staying that colour.

cheers
Ross
 
Vaguely, Ross, was it on the old site.?

I was thinking of this .View attachment 332312 !
Comes with the prime mover, but they included wheels ?
Going to try your tips, thanks .
John .
 

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