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slupanter

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Hi all.

Filters?

Do any of you use the brand stuff? I've only ever used 3 oil tones.

Are they any good?

Which brand?

An I write in thinking you just use it to blend the camo with the base?

What so you use filters for?
 
Well if you ask me, filters are a fancy name for a wash, just to trick folk into parting with more money than they're already doing.

Bottom lie is that IMHO a wash and a filter are the same thing: A thin 'paint' applied over the top of another paint to change or enhance the overall appearance of the colour which you have spent several days trying to get just right to make it accurate, to make it look more real....

Never bought one. Filter that is. I, like you, have some Windsor and Newton in the draw and a big bottle of thinners!

Ian M
 
Whether filters work or not is a matter of personal perception. The fact that a filter effect is hard to see in photos makes it hard to appreciate.

But filters & washes aren't the same for 1 important reason - a wash is applied over a gloss coat to run into the nooks & crannies, whereas a filter is applied to matt paint so that it 'clings ' to the paint itself.

I've used homebrew filters from oil paints to reduce the contrast between 2-3 colour camo schemes - with varying results! ;)

Cheers

Patrick
 
Thread owner
\ said:
Whether filters work or not is a matter of personal perception. The fact that a filter effect is hard to see in photos makes it hard to appreciate.But filters & washes aren't the same for 1 important reason - a wash is applied over a gloss coat to run into the nooks & crannies, whereas a filter is applied to matt paint so that it 'clings ' to the paint itself.

I've used homebrew filters from oil paints to reduce the contrast between 2-3 colour camo schemes - with varying results! ;)

Cheers

Patrick
So for dark yellow with green and red brown camo what oil colours to you use?

And what white spirit do you use?
 
For that scheme, I use a burnt umber filter - normal white spirit bought from anywhere works for me.

Unlike a wash, rather than thinning the paint I take a quantity of white spirit (my measure is 3/4 of an empty Tamiya jar) & dip a brush with the paint into that, swirl it around so you end up with tinted thinner as opposed to thinned paint.
 
\ said:
But filters & washes aren't the same for 1 important reason - a wash is applied over a gloss coat to run into the nooks & crannies, whereas a filter is applied to matt paint so that it 'clings ' to the paint itself.
So if I put it over a gloss its a wash, but over a matt its a filter. Oh I get it. I better get out and buy some of each...

Ian M
 
\ said:
But filters & washes aren't the same for 1 important reason - a wash is applied over a gloss coat to run into the nooks & crannies, whereas a filter is applied to matt paint so that it 'clings ' to the paint itself.
not when its an oil dot filter, you have to put that over a gloss coat,

i think this is one of those subjects where theres so many different ways of doing things theres no real answer

however i do agree with Ian, its one of those things where it seems fashionable so lets see how much we can make out of people
 
I think a wash and a filter serve different purposes, whatever the niceties of the definitions. I consider them different things.

I usually apply a wash of one sort of another to a model to bring out detail, fasteners, access hatches etc but without overdoing it. For me the results are hardly noticeable for being there, but you'd notice if they weren't they (if you know what I mean).

A filter is an entirely different thing and is a way of altering our perception of the finish. I've used multi-coloured oils on some models, like an all black P-47, but generally now use a slightly tinted gloss coat over the decals which serves the same purpose.

I find that a grey tint will help to reduce the overall contrast between camouflage colours, give a very slightly aged look to the paint and help to blend in decals all in one go. An added bonus is that it is very simple to make and apply. I just add a drop or two of a grey acrylic paint (I find the green/grey RLM 02 or RLM 75 work well) to my gloss varnish. Don't overdo it! The effect is quite subtle.

Yesterday:



Today with filter



I'm not sure that my photographic skills are up to showing a subtle difference, but it is visible to a Mk1 eyeball :)

Cheers

Steve
 
\ said:
I think a wash and a filter serve different purposes, whatever the niceties of the definitions. I consider them different things.I usually apply a wash of one sort of another to a model to bring out detail, fasteners, access hatches etc but without overdoing it. For me the results are hardly noticeable for being there, but you'd notice if they weren't they (if you know what I mean).

A filter is an entirely different thing and is a way of altering our perception of the finish. I've used multi-coloured oils on some models, like an all black P-47, but generally now use a slightly tinted gloss coat over the decals which serves the same purpose.

I find that a grey tint will help to reduce the overall contrast between camouflage colours, give a very slightly aged look to the paint and help to blend in decals all in one go. An added bonus is that it is very simple to make and apply. I just add a drop or two of a grey acrylic paint (I find the green/grey RLM 02 or RLM 75 work well) to my gloss varnish. Don't overdo it! The effect is quite subtle.

Yesterday:



Today with filter



I'm not sure that my photographic skills are up to showing a subtle difference, but it is visible to a Mk1 eyeball :)

Cheers

Steve
Hi can you give me some advice please. Looking into the weathering of my model somewhere in the distant future. I have done some research and found contradictory information.

The main querie I have is if you use Acrylics as your main paint you should use oil washes on top so not to effect the acrylic ? Surely if you seal with a gloss coat first before application the substrate paint or top layer is irrelevant?

cheers

Daz
 
Generally speaking Daz, the 2 types of paint are applied so as not to affect each other - oil-based on cured acrylic or vice versa. The key is to make sure whichever type you use is fully cured & not just dry.

Washes are usually oil-based, either enamel or oil paint simply because they're easier to work with. Some people have obtained good results with acrylics though.

My preference is enamels for base colours, an acrylic based gloss coat & then oil washes. Typically I'll leave at least 48 hours between each one, just to be safe.

Cheers

Patrick
 
\ said:
Generally speaking Daz, the 2 types of paint are applied so as not to affect each other - oil-based on cured acrylic or vice versa. The key is to make sure whichever type you use is fully cured & not just dry.Washes are usually oil-based, either enamel or oil paint simply because they're easier to work with. Some people have obtained good results with acrylics though.

My preference is enamels for base colours, an acrylic based gloss coat & then oil washes. Typically I'll leave at least 48 hours between each one, just to be safe.

Cheers

Patrick
Cool thanks for that, now it makes more sense.

Cheers for the quick reply

Daz
 
Is there a general rule of thumb on which to do first? A filter then a pin wash or vice versa?
 
\ said:
Is there a general rule of thumb on which to do first? A filter then a pin wash or vice versa?
As a filter should be applied over matt paint, that would precede the gloss coat & subsequent washes.
 
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