discussion Glueing Cockpit Canopies

[Guest]

Hi All, during my current build I tried a new way of glueing my canopy, I made sure I had a good fit and used KLear. I appled it with a fine brush and allowed it to wick around the joint. It had a grab in about 2 Hrs, but I left it overnight to strengthen. It subsequently withstood my masking, airbrushing and removal of the masks. You get an almost faultless joint. You can go over it again to fill in any very small gaps. Cheers Derek

 

[Guest]

Good tip Derek. Have to say though that most canopies I have had to stick on have not been that good a fit. OK, I am a modeller and I should make them fit better but you know what it is like..... Anyway, that is why I use Gator Glue as it tends to fill the gaps I get a bit better lol. I will certainly try Klear if I get one that good.

 

[colin m]

A subject I always find a bit tricky, thanks for the tip.

Colin M..........

 

[Guest]

Will be using this tip alot..

Tony G

 

[stona]

I've used it to attach extra layers like armoured windscreens or "blinkers". My only reservation is that Klear seems to shrink as it dries and unless you have a pair of good mating surfaces you may find tiny bubbles develop. Bubbles are not going to be a problem when attaching the canopy to the rest of the aircraft but you need a good fit.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Hi all, as you say Graham and Steve you need a good fit, but for me I am fed up buying this chemical for this bit and another chemical for that bit. My house is beginning to resemble a chemical factory. Anyway, I attach a close-up of the SU-33 canopy, which is the best I have achieved so far. Cheers Derek

View attachment 24024

View attachment 136550

 

[Guest]

Graham, how good was gator glue for glueing canopies as I was considering buying some from John but thought it was only for etched parts

 

[Guest]

Nooo, you cannot live without a pot of Gator glue, isn't very big and lasts for ages. Think of it as a PVA that when dry it is clear and as hard as ...... well a very hard thing. PVA tends to have a rubbery consistency when dry. I use it for all sorts. OK, it is not as fast as superglue but then again, it isn't super glue. Will not fog clear parts and also useful for sticking kit onto figures, just have to give it time to dry. Initially when I stick down a canopy for masking and spraying, I just do a few tiny blobs which then allows me to 'break' the canopy off for final touching up and cleaning.

Worth having a pot in your glue box believe me.

 

[Ian M]

Agree with You there Graham. Gator glue works a treat. As you say by no means super-glue, and the extra drying time does take a bit of getting used to. I also use it for fixing pre painted parts, that are to small to clean up or risk the wonderfull capillary effect where normal glue just runs round all the corners and detail.

An Other usefull one to have in the box o tricks is microscale's kristal klear. Also a PVA base that dries clear. Its a bit thicker than Gator glue. dries clear and can be used for small windows and lights. INSTEAD OF the clear plastic part. Great for port holes and other small flat clear parts.

Ian M