discussion Gluing transparent bits

[Guest]

If you havent already tried it then i recommend some of this

no mess, no fuss, no fogging

so easy to accurately glue you canopies etc.

 

[mossiepilot]

Is this the same as the contacta glue with the metal tube applicator, used it before and bunged up the tube, reckon the glue had dried inside it, so I wasted half the glue because it wouldn't come out. Nice idea though.

Tony.

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

the tube on this is much thinner and the cap has a peice that goes inside the tube when you put the top on so it never blocks, it dries perfectly clear as well

 

[mossiepilot]

Mmmm, I'll have a look round for it.

Tony.

 

[Guest]

i got mine from ebay, a seller in japan.

free postage but takes a while to arrive.

 

[stona]

It's an acrylic cement used by jewellers for watch glasses and the like though it has found a niche in the hobby market too. I know one of SWMBO's friends uses it in the beautiful "doll's houses",sometimes shops etc,that she makes.

I bought some in Birmingham,probably in the jewellery quarter,but can't remember where.......old age I suppose.

It's readily available in the UK online,a quick google will turn up some retailers. It retails at about £3.60-£4.00.

Cheers

Steve

Cheers

Steve

 

[Gern]

Is this the same as the contacta glue with the metal tube applicator, used it before and bunged up the tube

I use a bit of fuse wire to clean mine out if it clogs. If the glue has set, carefully pour some boiling water over the tube first.

Gern

 

[Guest]

jewellery glue | eBay

You will find them all here & next to nothing in cost.

Laurie

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Seems Mom had one all the time, its now appeared in my stash

Lets see how long before I get a call

Adrian

 

[Guest]

I always use KLEAR for gluing my cockpits, never had a problem, doesn't need to be a particularly good fit either. Derek

 

[Guest]

I'm a pva fan myself for any clear bits. I eithe use a thin brush or a syringe to apply.

this stuffs got my attention though with it having its own applicator an all

will have look see at getting some and trying it out.

 

[Guest]

Yes I have tried PVA Colin but it has never worked all that well for me. I find this Jewellers stuff a bit stronger.

Perhaps it is me but I find the stuff has a mind of its own & dribbles out unless you put the pin in which is a nuisance. I do not squeeze it in any wayAny body had this problem is so has any one solved it ?

Laurie

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I've never used PVA , I tend to mainly use Micro Kristal Klear, but now I have that G.S stuff I will try it on my latest build to compare

Adrian

 

[stona]

Gator's Grip for me,just another acrylic cement. I did use the GS Hypo stuff for a while and it worked well enough but I mislaid it a while ago and have never found it. It probably got chucked out by mistake

I have a pot of Gator's Grip which has thickened up a bit over time and not only attaches clear parts but can be used to fill small gaps.

Steve

 

[Ian M]

Gator grip for me to.

Steve you know that when it starts to go thick, you can just give it a few drop water and a good shake and its as good as new.. and you can reach it again

Ian M

 

[Guest]

Just purchased some, I need all the help I can get with canopies, i'm never happy with the results.

 

[stona]

Gaz,I always try to avoid the canopy having a "stuck on" look to it.

My method,which is by no means standard,is to attach the masked canopy to the model at the end of construction and before painting. This means I can sort out any gaps or other nasties. The masking stays on the canopy throughout the entire painting and varnishing process,only being removed at the very end. It's a bit of a nail biting moment removing it! It's usually okay though sometimes minor blemishes have to be rectified.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Gaz,I always try to avoid the canopy having a "stuck on" look to it.My method,which is by no means standard,is to attach the masked canopy to the model at the end of construction and before painting.

Steve

Yes I have adopted that procedure. Difficult enough to get this looking right with some models rather than my original method of sticking it on at the end. This gave exactly that impression "stuck on at the end".

Just one thing about any body using Gaytor Glue. It is a great piece in the armoury but if using for the first time watch out. Be frugal when applying it expands (foams) as it dries so make sure canopies are battened down as to much Gaytor glue will rise inside the canopy or raise the canopy. Get it on your fingers & it is a real pain.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Gaz,I always try to avoid the canopy having a "stuck on" look to it.My method,which is by no means standard,is to attach the masked canopy to the model at the end of construction and before painting. This means I can sort out any gaps or other nasties. The masking stays on the canopy throughout the entire painting and varnishing process,only being removed at the very end. It's a bit of a nail biting moment removing it! It's usually okay though sometimes minor blemishes have to be rectified.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks for the tip Steve, I have done this on a couple of occasions, but then when removing the masking it removed the paint from the canopy too. (i think the varnish had formed a skin over both the masking and the canopy) - I turned the air blue for several hours and have since returned to putting them on at the end and touching up... I now seem to have developed some strange canopy aversion disorder and start to tremble at the mere sight of a clear part...but truth is I reckon you are right and I need to try it again, once i'm feeling braver.

(I'm building the Graf Spee at the moment - no clear parts - it's like therapy.)

 

[stona]

I now seem to have developed some strange canopy aversion disorder and start to tremble at the mere sight of a clear part..

You are not the only one!

I wash my clear parts (ooooh errr) and then dip them in Klear (Way Heh!) before masking. The first paint is usually the internal colour so no primer. I've not had much trouble with the paint lifting with the masking with acrylic (Xtracrylix) or enamel (Humbrol,WEM) paints. I did have some Vallejo lift once but that was probably just bad luck or bad preparation on my part.

Steve