discussion He 219 1/32

[Guest]

I look forward to see if it stands up right rather than falling on it's big belly lol.


Scott

 

[Guest]

Do you know what, after all the weight I have added to get this big bitch sitting properly......... She is sitting on her bloody tail don't know how to fix it?


Scott

 

[Guest]

As it's all sealed up, maybe live with it for now & once it's done pose it on a base with some superglue to hold the nosewheel tyres to the base?

 

[stona]

I had a similar problem with an Me 262. I fixed it to a base, but to avoid any evidence or gluey marks I drilled the front tyre and inserted a pin which I then glued into a corresponding hole in the base. A variation I've heard of is to fix a wire to the tyre and pull that through the base, bending it to make a fixing which still allows the model to be easily removed. I've never tried that but it should work.


Cheers


Steve

 

[Guest]

Cheers guys I might just do that.


Scott

 

[PhilJ]

What about a maintenance trestle/prop at the rear? I have seen loads of pictures with them used on old German fighters and jets? Not sure if they used them on bombers ect but it would also add some interest


Phil

 

[yak face]

Shame about that scott , as others have said gluing the nose wheel to a base is one of the best ways , or maybe making four wheel chocks and gluing them to the main wheels , front and back to stop the beast sitting up , cheers tony

 

[Gern]

Do you know what, after all the weight I have added to get this big bitch sitting properly......... She is sitting on her bloody tail don't know how to fix it?
Scott

That's a d**n shame Scott! How short of weight are you? If you're nearly there, I think there's a tiny bit of space in the nose so could you pour a little PVA in through the hole in the nose piece and then pour in some sand or similar? There's also a bit of space available in the prop spinners which you could fill with a PVA/sand mix or Blutack. Maybe these could swing the balance for you depending on how short of the required weight you are .....

 

[Guest]

How the heck, after all those extra weights. Maybe more I the mid section will help, it will be in front of the rear wheels where it counts.

 

[stona]

I've got another big German lined up for my next project, also a tricycle undercarriage, and this is making me feel nervous


Cheers


Steve

 

[Guest]

I worked out I have used just under 200g of weight and I've no idea how to work out how short iam.


Scott

 

[stona]

I worked out I have used just under 200g of weight and I've no idea how to work out how short iam.
Scott

At the risk of stating the bleedin' obvious, it depends how far in front of the pivot point, the main wheels, you can get it.


Cheers


Steve

 

[Gern]

Try adding little bits of blutack to the very front of the nose 'til it tips. If you need a lot, then you're either going to have to fix the nosewheel down or support it at the rear as the guys have said.


It begs the question though of how Revell came up with their weights - which are obviously waaaaayyyyy short of what is needed.

 

[Guest]

Gents iam here to inform you of success, iadded lead shot to the inside of the prop noses and some lead wire fed in through the hole in the nose and I got her to stand.


ScottView attachment 243888

View attachment 243889

View attachment 243890

 

[stona]

And very nice she looks too!


Cheers


Steve

 

[Guest]

Thanks Steve.


Scott

 

[Gern]

Result! Well done Scott.

 

[Guest]

Relief, iam glad I've got it sorted cheers Dave.


Scott

 

[PhilJ]

Well done mate, my dragon me262 had loads of weight added to the front. You've only got to breath on it and it still wants to tip back!


Looking good though

 

[Gern]

Relief, iam glad I've got it sorted cheers Dave.
Scott

At least we all know now to load every available spot when building this. I've put a little note in my box to remind me to load both the nose and the nosewheel itself with lead wire! Sometimes someone has to be the guinea pig for kits - looks like it was your turn this time Scott!