discussion HMCS Snowberry

[Guest]

View attachment 100222



the liferafts i have used ca glue to glue them together and it seems to work quite well if used sparingly doesn't foul the detail on the model otherwise it would be a pig of a job to clean up.


i have left the last one unassembled to show what i had to do to get the ropes on the rafts to join up perfect. i had to remove the join line on the inside because the ropes just wouldn't match up without removing it so it had to go

View attachment 213245

 

[Guest]

oh well thats it for now have to go and move the model building things into the other room so i can carry on for a few hours enjoy your evening and be good

 

[Guest]

i have had an idea about the priming, filling, gluing, painting and assembling situation i have some more colours to finish my corvette are in the post in the next couple of days i also have some paint on primer coming in the same order.


the idea is to prime everything on the sprues, then remove the items from the sprues, glue them, tidy them up, fill them as required, touch up the primer as required, then do the final assembly.


what do you guys think ?

 

[Guest]

right as promised some pics of the work that i have done recently.
View attachment 101896


the radar tower still needs a bit of work but it's coming along nicely. the only problem is that the clear plastic has gone misty i got glue on it and made a serious rookie mistake and tried to sand the glue off. have any of you got any advice on getting it clear again or should i just leave them out ???


i have some clear acetate i might just cut that to size and see how it goes.

The Roket Odourless glue I mentioned in your POW thread prevents this fogging. Dipping clear parts in 'Klear' floor polish before glueing also prevents this. I've never tried to rectify a fogged plastic, but you might like to try this, which is part of the removal sequence for removing longitudinal seams on aircraft canopies.


Take some Halfords Gr 1500 wet and dry paper, used it dry and buffed up the area. Did the same with Gr 2000. I then took some toothpaste onto a tissue and buffed it up for a minute, and finished off by buffing up with dry toilet tissue. Dunked the object in Klear and placed it on some kitchen paper towel to dry under a lid from a small plastic box to keep it dust free. Hope this helps Derek


p.s. Klear has recently been replaced with Pledge Klear Multi Surface Wax.

 

[Guest]

thanks for the information derek anything is worth a try i will let you know how it goes and what i did in the end

 

[Guest]

I think i have found a solution to my smelly paint problem. I have just started using Revell Aqua Colour because there is very little or no smell and you don't need thinners to thin it down i can use normal water and for cleaning brushes it's just the glue situation i have to sort out i have to wait a couple of weeks till we get paid and i can get hold of the Roket odorless ca glue the


Anyway enough about that i have done some more work on my corvette today. I have done some more work on the radar tower, the figures, the mines and a few other bits i will put some more pics up for you all to look at soon

 

[Guest]

here you all go as promised some more pics of the work i have done so far


View attachment 100741



the radar tower nearly finished it just needs rope handrails, posts and the ladder in place


View attachment 100740



the mines still need tidying up and painting


View attachment 100739



the figures had a goat getting rid of the mould lines ans made a start on painting them as for lips and eyes i think i will leave them off but thats it for tonight might do some more tomorrow if things go to plan

View attachment 213762

View attachment 213763

View attachment 213764

 

[Guest]

right as promised some pics of the work that i have done recently.
View attachment 101896


the radar tower still needs a bit of work but it's coming along nicely. the only problem is that the clear plastic has gone misty i got glue on it and made a serious rookie mistake and tried to sand the glue off. have any of you got any advice on getting it clear again or should i just leave them out ???


i have some clear acetate i might just cut that to size and see how it goes.

You should be able to wet and dry it up to 12000 grit although maybe 3000-6000 would do then use a suitable polish to get the ultimate shine back. Don't go to too low a grit yo start though as you will put deep scratches in. You are only trying to polish the surface. I know this from prepping fiberglass moulds.


The Humbrol video shows parts being dipped in their clear and they come out like glass but I have yet to try the clear myself.

 

[Guest]

hi dougie i used some acetate the type of stuff that people used to use on overhead projectors [back in the day] a bit of measuring and cutting and it fits like a glove. i'm now thinking of doing all the windows and portholes with the acetate and sealing it with clear seal on the inside to waterproof it

 

[Guest]

Nice progress Dave. Derek

 

[Guest]

thanks derek will be doing some more on her later by the way i have just ordered that roket ca glue that you recommended so i should have that in a couple of days

 

[Guest]

hmmm sanding and filling liferafts is becoming a little tedious tonight so i'm going to call it a day

 

[Guest]

finished filling and sanding 2 liferafts. going to start painting them soon and just ordered some 10mm brass stanchions to go round the radar tower

 

[Guest]

NOTE TO SELF: never use superglue on styrene plastic because it doesn't work unless it's photo etch, when sanding three of the liferafts the came apart in my hand so i decided to ask the missus can i get the great little ships liferafts upgrade kits instead of using the kit supplied rafts.


On a good note i have decided to plank my own deck with 1.5mm x 7mm balsa strips sanded down to wafer thin dimensions not sure of the exact thickness yet. I know that the whole deck is not planked and some of it is steel plated so if anybody has any pictures of this i would appreciate it thank you.


Here is a picture of the deck started.


View attachment 101003



Any advice or questions that you have on this would be greatly appreciated.

View attachment 214026

 

[Ian M]

CA works on Plastic. It does not work to well in oil/grease from fingers.... ?


Otherwise it could be that you sanded away the part that was glued.


As for the wooden deck sections. All of the bridge area. the fo'c'sle and the area to the rear and each side of the machine room. All the rest was painted steel.


Ian M

 

[Guest]

thanks for the advice on the glue and the wooden deck ian i will try again with the glue maybe apply the glue after i have cleaned up the area before gluing it. I will look for some pictures of the deck and steel plates online

 

[flyjoe180]

Coming along nicely Dave. These ship builds are fascinating, so many tiny pieces and details.

 

[Guest]

thank you joe she is a pleasure to build and not as much of a challenge as i expected but it will take some time to complete even more so with some of the photo etch parts that i am going to use.

 

[Guest]

i have done some more on my corvette but i have done the lower bridge ma in structure, about 20% of the mines, the engine room cover, rope reels, funnels, made a start on the engine room skylights, and a few other bits, i will put some more pictures up for you all soon but i have some family issues to sort out so i might not bee around much for a couple of weeks i will try to keep up with it but can't promise anything.

 

[Ian M]

Family befor forum mate. Hope it's nothing to bad.


Ian M