discussion Horton Go 229 1/72

[Cogez88]

Jordan I'll pull up a seat if I may .

Thanks John good to have you along!

Not much done tonight, two more coats of yellow on the underside. I also found a couple of little bubbles under one of the decals, so I searched the forums for what to do. Pricked a little hole with a hobby knife, and put decal softener over the top. Will have a look again tomorrow!

 

[Cogez88]

Jordan,
a suggestion - HobbyBoss 1/48 P-51D Mustang 85806 ( alternatively 85902 or 85808 ) http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1314&l=en although of simple construction, makes up into a lovely model!
Dave

Thanks Dave, looks nice! It got me thinking about a question which I suspect is dealt with somewhere else and probably causes some debates... What are the pros and cons of the different brands? Is there a forum post on this already?

 

[Tim Marlow]

Thanks Dave, looks nice! It got me thinking about a question which I suspect is dealt with somewhere else and probably causes some debates... What are the pros and cons of the different brands? Is there a forum post on this already?

In my experience, virtually all brands have duds in the range, and conversely all ranges have their gems Jordan. Until you’ve got a feel for the various manufacturers, it’s probably best to ask on here first.

 

[Dave Ward]

pros and cons of the different brands?

Jordan,
it's not a hard and fast rule, but the more modern production models are better engineered & should fit better. but as Tim says there are duds around. That's not to say that all older models are poor, there are models made in the 70's & 80's which still are up o modern standards! Research & asking on the forum are essential.
I wonder if you've found Scalemates? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/ It's the invaluable data base for models - you can find the date of the model, who has made it, reviews where available and sometimes you can download the instructions - handy for finding out what you're letting yourselfin for AND finding what paints you need. Some manufacturers allow you to download the instructions as well, but not always the case - I always look in at Scalemates before parting with my hard earned cash!
Dave

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Thanks Dave, looks nice!

Oh,trust me,it is :thumb2:
A couple of years back,Dave did several reviews of this range,on the strength of those I thought I'd try one,that "one" being the exact same kit as that Mustang .
An enjoyable build in every respect,and,as Dave said, when painted/decaled up,can be made to look very nice indeed

 

[Guest]

In my experience, virtually all brands have duds in the range, and conversely all ranges have their gems

Wellllllll … for some ranges, IMHO those statements only apply if you take them to be relative to the overall standard of the range Sure, every kit is buildable if you’re willing to put in enough time and effort, but some are simply not worth the bother unless you like doing that.

 

[Cogez88]

I wonder if you've found Scalemates?

No, thanks Dave, this does look useful! I have an idea for a next model that this may assist with...

Tonight has not been a super successful night... My yellow paint ran under the masking tape, so I need to fix that up. Pretty disappointing really, the same thing happened to a lesser extent on the nose landing gear door. I'm hoping I've done a better job of firmly applying the tape to the leading edges to get a clean finish.

Ok in writing that paragraph I decided to remove the tape after my first coat of the top surfaces, and I've got the same problem so back to the drawing board for this masking and painting!

In positive news, the colour itself looks good so if I just look at it from the right angle, I've nailed it haha

 

[Dave Ward]

Jordan,
I use masking tape, about 5mm wide, the stuff for moddelers is thin & pretty flexible - when I've applied it in the right place, I use the handle of an old paintbrush to really press down the edges - but anything hard and smooth, without sharp edges will do. You can seal the edges with a thin brushstroke of matt, or gloss varnish - that will really stop anu paint creep - that is useful when the surface isn't totally flat ( like a Ju 52! )
Dave

 

[Andy the Sheep]

Jordan, a suggestion for yellow tips and small parts: as yellow paints are made with very fine pigments, they tend to be very liquid; they usually find their way under the masking tape easily, especially if you use brushes.
Best thing to do is paint the yellow tips/parts first, then mask it very well and paint the rest of the blade/part in the needed colour. This works fine with airbrush (or "hissing stick":smiling3 painting as well.

 

[Cogez88]

Jordan, a suggestion for yellow tips and small parts: as yellow paints are made with very fine pigments, they tend to be very liquid; they usually find their way under the masking tape easily, especially if you use brushes.
Best thing to do is paint the yellow tips/parts first, then mask it very well and paint the rest of the blade/part in the needed colour. This works fine with airbrush (or "hissing stick":smiling3 painting as well.

Thanks Andy, that makes sense!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Personally ive not found yellows to be more fluid than other paints. What I have found is that the pigments are transparent, so it takes more paint to get good coverage. Bright reds and oranges can be similar. This makes it harder to judge how much paint you’ve applied, especially on darker areas. This, in turn, can lead to overapplication of paint, so flooding the area and causing runs and bleed under masking.
My advice, different from Andy’s, which is also valid, is to mask off the propellor and first paint the tip area with a sand or buff colour. These cover well, and are easier to judge, giving you a good baseline to work over. You can then paint the area with yellow paint, which will cover far more successfully over a lighter undercoat, and get a far better result.

 

[Cogez88]

I've been working on the top surfaces, and did some painting of one half of the camouflage pattern tonight. Spent a fair bit of time pressing the tape down with the handle of a file, and I've got much cleaner lines. So it's looking ok! The two colours are much more similar than I had imagined before I mixed them, but it's still looking pretty good.

I did end up with some ridges of paint where the tape was... Is there are anything I can do to correct or prevent those?

 

[Guest]

To prevent paint build-up against the edge of the tape, don’t brush towards the tape but along it and away from it. If you see too much paint against the tape, while it’s still wet, do the same: just brush it away from the edge.

 

[Guest]

Jordon, look fine to me, always thought yellow was hard one to paint .