I would add that dry fitting all with sides secured w/weights to make sure all the in between stuff is accurate.
I do mine slightly differently to Dave; align end beams and apply Contact adhesive to one side only, allow to set once square - locate remaining beams (again glued one side only) - assemble, clamp and use TET on remaining joints. Wiggle and clamp, weight down and allow to set. Job's a good 'un! Having said that, ICM chassis, with their near-scale wall thicknesses, reward patience and methodical approaches!
Steve
Steve
G
Done a little work on the chassis, I primed it and then glued it taking my time to make sure it was okay.
Then I replaced the missing bit with something that's not perfect but is close, then sprayed it and the base black
and yes, I'm one of the silly ones who crosses out each step as its done
Then I replaced the missing bit with something that's not perfect but is close, then sprayed it and the base black
and yes, I'm one of the silly ones who crosses out each step as its done
Nice job. Looks like you've got the chassis all together and nice and square. Worth the extra effort as everything else relies on a decent chassis.
G
That would never work for me, I go back and forth through the instructions all the timeI'm one of the silly ones who crosses out each step as its done
I just use them to show me which parts go where, and not as a guide to the best order to build the model in … (It might be useful to add here that I also have a very good memory for which parts are already on and which still need to be added, so I don’t cross out parts I’ve stuck on either, as some people do.)
G
New model new learning curve...
You have overcome one problem with the broken part and solved the chassis part. If you are going to build more wheeled vehicles I would get a piece of 5mm glass and use that as the 'table' to assemble my chassis. I have the glass doors from an old video cabinet someone had thrown out, edges all safe so no cuts.
As for the instructions you are off in the right direction and later you will recognise when going through the instructions where you can break down your build into sub assemblies, but you will work out your own method.
Mike
You have overcome one problem with the broken part and solved the chassis part. If you are going to build more wheeled vehicles I would get a piece of 5mm glass and use that as the 'table' to assemble my chassis. I have the glass doors from an old video cabinet someone had thrown out, edges all safe so no cuts.
As for the instructions you are off in the right direction and later you will recognise when going through the instructions where you can break down your build into sub assemblies, but you will work out your own method.
Mike
I don't necessarily follow the order of instructions but I highlight when I removed a part from the sprue and mark when a step is complete.
It helps me keep track of the build.
G
I shall join the amassed onlookers if I may Steve. I've had many a twisted chassis in the past, have already learn't from reading the blog.
Me too. I even cross off each decal I attach!! With a memory like mine it’s a very prudent action.and yes, I'm one of the silly ones who crosses out each step as its done
Here speaks a person who can walk from one room to another to do something and totally forget what where and when!!!
Notes and crossing things out are all part of the Waspie tool kit!!
Crack on cracking on Steve, you’re taming this un that’s for sure.
G
Excellent idea!
I use a granite cutting board for big stuff & metal machined blocks for small pcs. The metal blocks come in handy for squaring things up.
G
I use a piece of glass from an old picture frame, but as you say, the edges are rough-cut so I have to be a little careful with it. Also, it’s just normal window glass so it can break — best would be a bit of tempered glass with smoothed edges, of course.
G
Some more bits added.
Not silly, I do it as well. However, I cross out each part as it is added, and add instructions like “add after paint”. Once all operations in a section are complete I cross off the whole section.yes, I'm one of the silly ones who crosses out each step as its done
See above Jakko. I do this, but use the instructions as a live work book, crossing off a section when all of the parts are on the model.
I do that as well, especially on the more complex airframe decal jobs with a lot of stencils to add.
I learned that from you Tim. Already started scribbling notes for the Wasp future build.
Re. the decals. I circle the ones that are needed for that particular build, For example, the Sea King had several options of decals dependant on mark being constructed. So I circle the decals needed for 'my' particular build, then as I add a decal it is then crossed off with a 'X'.
May seem an overkill or a lack of memory but I'm still learning the trade and as already intimated, memory isn't at its peak as age creeps up!!! Or in my case, crept up!!!!!
G
I only do that with models of aircraft that have a ridiculous amount of stencilling on them, because I found I soon ended up confused about which ones I had already put on and which were still on the sheet.
The 1/48 Airfix SK falls in the ridiculous amount of decals category!!
G
I'll tell you something for sure, this is the last vehicle I'll be doing. I'm like 10% and it's been a nightmare already and I really hated the damn leaf springs, not only couldn't I get th seams off but they didn't even match up seamlessly. so yeah, I'm sticking to aircraft after this one for sure.
G
Try a Tamiya vehicle kit instead after you’ve done a few aircraft. As Andy put it very well earlier in this thread:
Tamiya, OTOH, go the other way: often moulding things in one piece that other manufacturers would use half a dozen parts for. You’ll find them much easier to build for sure
That's a boogar!! Hopefully it'll get better Steve. :thumb2:
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