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Scale Model Shop

Junkers Ju87B-2 ‘Stuka’ Scale 1/24

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Thread owner
Yeahh!! I have finished all the pieces :rolleyes:

Tomorrow I will start to mask the canopy ;)

Ps: Imventory...the missing parts on my kit:

One tube on the engine, a piece on the cockpit, the rubber (of course) and the last one is a bomb....you have four, I have only three... :( but is not a problem, if I remember well.... I drop one on the Alan's bench :) :) :)
 
Thread owner
I love LEGO!

Will you dismount now and remount into something else?

Francesco
 
Thread owner
\ said:
I love LEGO!Will you dismount now and remount into something else?

Francesco
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:D :D :D Sorry Francesco, I express it wrong......maybe I'm quite obsess with the missing PIECES..... :oops:
 
Thread owner
Hi all.

I want to start the paint work this weekend. But seems I have a problem....taking a look at the instructions there is a reference for the lower side of the Stuka, is the Hellblau colour. As you can see on the photo I have the Hellblau one, but the reference number is different O_o (Instructions RLM 65). Is mine correct?

The other one is the dark green. If I compare with the list that I take on internet, the 91 Humbrol is the 896 of Vallejo. Seems this one is correct....

Suggestions?

The other thing I want comment is: Went I started to post the thread, I had the idea that this one must be detailed and, if I can, useful for all members. I love the Barry’s idea and his thread....so I will “copy” it a little :P Anyway all you know how dangerous is my English....so I will do it with many informative and step by step photos, think is much better ;)

Just hope you are interested on the idea :)

Polux

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It's the same colour mate rml 65 is the humbrol number , in revell colour it's number 49 :)
 
Polux do the instructions still give only one upper surface colour? They used to when I first made this kit but this is incorrect. There should be two colours, both greens, in a splinter pattern.



The two colours were known by the Reich Air Ministry (RLM) number codes as RLM 70 and RLM 71. Someone will know the Vallejo equivalents. Because they were both greens and because the contrast between them was very low the difference does not show up well on black and white photographs which is why when the kit was first released the colour call was for only one upper surface colour. I would have expected Airfix to have updated this by now.

Here are the same two colours on an early Bf 109. This is a still taken from an early colour film.



Even in sunlight (see the shadows) the contrast is low. On the upper surface of the wings it is very hard to see.

IIRC the Hasegawa instructions for their 1/32 Ju 87 have a good diagram of the scheme.

Cheers

Steve
 
Thread owner
Don't worry Steve!! On the instructions there are the both colours!

But I don't have the "lighter" one....:oops: need to find it quickly :eek:
 
The lighter one is RLM 71.

I'm sure Vallejo do a version of this. At 1/24 you might get away with spraying the colours as they come, but in smaller scales I usually lighten the 71 to give a little more contrast as in my 1/72 Bf 110.



Cheers

Steve
 
Thread owner
Mmmm....is perfect colour reference Steve ;) Thank you very much.

Looks like a green with a "touch" of brown....not?
 
Thread owner
Hi friends!

Today I have started finally the paintwork on the Stuka. As I commented, I will post a complete thread step by step. You know I’m not a plane builder, so, just give me some “liberties” if all you do it different, or I do it absolutely the wrong way in your opinion.... O_o I have thinking these days to try new things that I want to discover for my own, if they are erroneous or can turn a utility tips for all us. Don’t thing I’m trying to say that I don’t want to listen advices or comments from all you, please :eek:

errrr.... think I'm confusing all you now :confused:

:D :D :D
 
Thread owner
Advices and mistakes.

Remember when I built my last Stuka (I was seventeen :D ), but a good thing was doesn’t glue this part.

These parts are painted like the upper camouflage.

Anyway I glued them....Why? The reason is easy, on a small kit looks fine, but here you can have the same problem as me, the pieces need some plastic putty....

My advice is try how it fits and then decides if you can glue it later or now.

Remember are a big parts, so there is no problem to mask them later as well. ;)

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Thread owner
I usually do an extreme weathering on all my models, and this one doesn’t will be an exception...

Is just an opinion, but I think the grey primer is not "strong" enough....for me the best one is the panzer grey.

I’m searching for a resistant coat base and the panzer grey is so much dark, so I mix the grey primer and the panzer one, and add some drops of satin varnish as well. Now I have a resistant first coat, with a perfect colour to me.

View attachment 86330


When you mix colours needs some tool to calculate the portions, the best one for me is this :)

View attachment 86331


Is clean and easy. And this way you can remember always your mix.

If you, someday, will build this model...I explain you, I use (on the lower side) about 3,5 – 4 ml of paint :)

This is the final result so far :)

View attachment 86332


You can do some pre shade for a better look. Mine will lose surely , because I will add a new aluminium coat and the Hellblau colour as well. I’m thinking to create a chipping effect, that’s the reason for the aluminium coat.

I have decided to do the pre shade over the final Hellblau colour. Let’s see the result. :)

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Thread owner
\ said:
Can you get that satin varnish to use with a brush mate?
Click to expand...
What it means Alan? Sorry I don't understand your question :oops:

You want to use it with a brush? Or add the varnish after the primer coat..?
 
\ said:
What it means Alan? Sorry I don't understand your question :oops:You want to use it with a brush? Or add the varnish after the primer coat..?
Click to expand...
Sorry mate I should realise I have to be more clear , I wanted to know if you can use it with a brush mate :D
 
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