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M10 LEND LEASE BY ACADEMY 1/35 AMBUSH .

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You only find out how much handier it is to build Shermans that way when you need to set the suspension to a certain attitude, like to represent much weight on the front but not the rear, for which you pretty much have to glue the bogies to the hull before painting.

Oh, one thing I forgot this morning: the M10 has an inward-sloping bit to the bottom of the upper hull sides, at the level of the top run of the tracks. On the real vehicle, this is a hinged piece, but Academy has moulded it to the upper hull. You almost certainly won’t be able to fit the drive sprockets if you glue the hull halves together first, so make sure those are on before you do that. If you want to use the tracks from the kit, you will also need to add those before installing the upper hull. However, if you use workable tracks, like your preferred Friuls, you should be able to put the track in after glueing the hull halves together — just as long as you haven’t joined the ends of the track first, of course :)
 
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Hope there's still a seat in the back rows or gallery.
I filled to the brim my insulated 1/2 litre tea mug, so no need to elbow my way to the front. ;)
Hi Andrea.
In case you can't find a seat shout FIRE, this will clear the front row quicker than Matron appearing .;)
That's a good idea of Jakko's. Certainly worth noting in my book of tips
Yes indeed Jim, think I shall be asking for help on this quite a bit !
You only find out how much handier it is to build Shermans that way when you need to set the suspension to a certain attitude, like to represent much weight on the front but not the rear, for which you pretty much have to glue the bogies to the hull before painting.

Oh, one thing I forgot this morning: the M10 has an inward-sloping bit to the bottom of the upper hull sides, at the level of the top run of the tracks. On the real vehicle, this is a hinged piece, but Academy has moulded it to the upper hull. You almost certainly won’t be able to fit the drive sprockets if you glue the hull halves together first, so make sure those are on before you do that. If you want to use the tracks from the kit, you will also need to add those before installing the upper hull. However, if you use workable tracks, like your preferred Friuls, you should be able to put the track in after glueing the hull halves together — just as long as you haven’t joined the ends of the track first, of course :smiling3:
Thanks for that, I've done the road wheels as suggested, spent some time removing the mould line .
Will be using the kit tracks this time as an article in Scalemates which I posted earlier appeared to favour them .

No doubt I shall re read your post many times as I progress :nerd: and pm -ing you if that's ok .
 
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"Right there's more ", a famous expression by a US train u tuber Jaw Tooth.

Although I did find a wooden box with 4 Panserfausts in I've made a box with two . Seemed a better size for modelling .
IMG_20230801_193516552.jpgIMG_20230801_193529083.jpg Tried to make the internal supports in wood was just to small so used some Evergreen plastic strip .
Finished the 12 road wheels, sanded the mould line back , these will be sprayed and the outer rims painted in black tyre paint before they are assembled, as suggested by Jakko .

IMG_20230801_194000776.jpg
That's it , off to cook the tea .
John .
 
Good work John, once a joiner always a joiner, and it compliments your modelling skills.

Andy.
 
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Box looks great. The old habits and skills eh! :thumb2:
Thanks Jim, yes even better as it's a lot lighter :smiling2:
Rather use this Basswood than plastic card. Nice to work with, far better than Balsa.
Good work John, once a joiner always a joiner, and it compliments your modelling skills.

Andy.
Thanks for that Andy, appreciated.
 
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Finished the 12 road wheels, sanded the mould line back , these will be sprayed and the outer rims painted in black tyre paint before they are assembled, as suggested by Jakko .
My recommendation was actually to put together the whole bogies with the wheels in them, but leave the wheels free to rotate, and only then paint them :)

For realism, what you can do now is paint the rim of the wheel a bare metal colour. You can see a raised edge where the rubber tyre meets the wheel, and that rubbed against the inside of the track teeth, wearing away the paint. This is usually hard to spot in black-and-white photos and when the suspension is dirty, but it was pretty common.
 
That had me wondering where you'd bought a couple of genuine Panzerfausts!
Pete
 
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Great news John, I'll pull up a seat :smiling3: looking forward to the snacks :p
Welcome Cogz88
You will be offered snacks, but check first that your like what's in them .
Be prepared for some weird comments and a complete deviation from the build.

My recommendation was actually to put together the whole bogies with the wheels in them, but leave the wheels free to rotate, and only then paint them :smiling3:

For realism, what you can do now is paint the rim of the wheel a bare metal colour. You can see a raised edge where the rubber tyre meets the wheel, and that rubbed against the inside of the track teeth, wearing away the paint. This is usually hard to spot in black-and-white photos and when the suspension is dirty, but it was pretty common.
Right I'll do that when ready to paint :smiling2:
That had me wondering where you'd bought a couple of genuine Panzerfausts!
Pete
Well they were a good price, from Panzerfausts For U and guaranteed to work , so might come in useful at some point ;):nerd:
 
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This morning more with the boxes, going through my box if PE found some bits .

Think the two hasps are ok, made up some hinge like things and stuck the down .

IMG_20230802_132531588.jpg
Thanks for looking in
John
 
Panzerfausts look great in their boxes John :thumb2:,and the boxes themselves will be a very nice little detail in the diorama.... good stuff mate :cool:
 
I'm taking notes JR, as In the future, I may also need to build Panzerfaust crates.... :thumb2:
 
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Nice work, but wouldn’t the hinges be on the outside of the box rather than inside the lid?
 
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