discussion M3A1 BY ILOVE KITS IN 1/35 SCALE LEND LEASE DIORAMA

[Andy the Sheep]

Late as always... a back seat near Mike will do.

 

[Guest]

Late as always... a back seat near Mike will do.

Right Andrea, thanks for joining, seat to your left.

 

[Guest]

I've sent for some Mig double-sided tape, which has one side with a very strong grip, and a lesser top side. When removing the tracks form the jig this morning :disappointed: they broke , but :smiling3: the pins were ok eack side so just had to re glue the top and base plate. Will wait for the new tape to arrive.

Continued with the rear, ok a boob as I glued some bits on wrong.

Didn't see the recesses for the PE to go in, not the end of the world but annoying to say the least.



Decided to cheat and place some of the PE in place after the plastic part was glued on. As the top goes on later most of that section won't be seen. Tried out the new handle jig, pleased as the handle was very small.


also made one of those bar things on the air filters ? Just noticed one of the plastic parts is damaged as well .:anguished:. Think there are some spare on one of the sprues.




At least this part is right.

Standing by for a bl****** from Jakko :sad:.

John.

 

[Guest]

Think I need to look at a walk round ! Before I remove any more seams :worried:

Not much risk of that, I think. The whole upper hull was cast in one piece, so any moulding seams you see on the plastic parts are safe to remove, and the same goes for the turret and the commander’s cupola. The bogie bodies were also cast steel, but without any prominent seams that you should definitely leave on. Pretty much all other major parts on an M3A1 medium tank were flat plates riveted or bolted together — and that’s little more than the lower hull, really.

When removing the tracks form the jig this morning :disappointed: they broke , but :smiling3: the pins were ok eack side so just had to re glue the top and base plate.

phew I was worried it had actually broken, but that just sounds like the block halves just weren’t glued that well. Lucky escape there

As the top goes on later most of that section won't be seen.

I was about to say: most of those things will be largely out of sight anyway.

also made one of those bar things on the air filters ?

Those are the air filters, yes. There were two types, square like you have here, and cylindrical; both types were also found on M4 and M4A1 Shermans, as those had essentially the same engine and engine compartment as the M3 and M3A1 medium tanks.

At least this part is right.

Oh, that’s a fairly good way to do the idler wheels. It will leave a big seam around the outside that you’ll need to remove, but unlike the MiniArt version, there are no fragile rings to fit to the wheels.

BTW, when it comes to painting, these wheels don’t have a rubber tyre Only the roadwheels do, everything else is entirely steel.

Standing by for a bl****** from Jakko :sad:.

You’re doing very nicely, IMHO

 

[BattleshipBob]

My groveling apologies John.

Should have posted a lot earlier.

 

[Guest]

Not much risk of that, I think. The whole upper hull was cast in one piece, so any moulding seams you see on the plastic parts are safe to remove, and the same goes for the turret and the commander’s cupola. The bogie bodies were also cast steel, but without any prominent seams that you should definitely leave on. Pretty much all other major parts on an M3A1 medium tank were flat plates riveted or bolted together — and that’s little more than the lower hull, really.


phew :smiling3: I was worried it had actually broken, but that just sounds like the block halves just weren’t glued that well. Lucky escape there :smiling3:


I was about to say: most of those things will be largely out of sight anyway.


Those are the air filters, yes. There were two types, square like you have here, and cylindrical; both types were also found on M4 and M4A1 Shermans, as those had essentially the same engine and engine compartment as the M3 and M3A1 medium tanks.


Oh, that’s a fairly good way to do the idler wheels. It will leave a big seam around the outside that you’ll need to remove, but unlike the MiniArt version, there are no fragile rings to fit to the wheels.

BTW, when it comes to painting, these wheels don’t have a rubber tyre :smiling3: Only the roadwheels do, everything else is entirely steel.


You’re doing very nicely, IMHO :smiling3:

Thanks.

My groveling apologies John.

Should have posted a lot earlier.

No need to apologise Bob, just look in when you can .:thumb2:

 

[Guest]

Hello all , yesterday I achieved this.


I've not glued the idler or drive wheels.


All of the road wheels are able to move, glueing them up when placed on the base.


Decided to chrome the lights before I glue the face on.


Started the light PE guard , bent will glue on after the light is fitted.

Thanks for looking in.

John.

 

[Guest]

Looking good

 

[Strenko J]

Keep the magic coming JR

 

[scottie3158]

Coming on very nicely me old mate.

 

[Guest]

Looking good :smiling3:

Trying , and at times it is

Keep the magic coming JR

Nice of you to say, cheers Joe, hope all is well .

Coming on very nicely me old mate.

Thanks , the only problem Paul is the small PE .

 

[Waspie]

Nice going John. I'm hovering around on ye magic carpet Mk7.

 

[Guest]

Nice going John. I'm hovering around on ye magic carpet Mk7.

Arh, the Mk7, and perfect choice Doug.

 

[Waspie]

Arh, the Mk7, and perfect choice Doug.

Indeed, a vast improvement over the Mk6. Hot beverages, a biccy dispenser and a hot water bottle for the colder transits!!!

 

[Mickc1440]

Looking good JR

 

[Guest]

Looking good JR

Thanks Mick.

 

[Guest]

No doubt there will be much wailing and gnashing of teeth from some quarters when they see what has become of the PE.

This first photo show just how small ( I forgot to include measurements but you can imagine )


The piece of plastic was less than 8 mm in length

This is where it went, the surrounds were placed after the plastic section had been glued in.


Well its in place, one of the T sections became dislodged, daren't attempt to move it again.


This part went in well , as did the use of the new handle jig


Then it was those light guards, very thin section of PE.In the end I drilled out the small fitting marks and managed to get one to work. Then it was the turn of the second, gave up trying to handle the PE and went for a bit of wire.


With this being the thinnest PE I'm struggling to gauge any depth of field with having only one good eye. At least a coat of paint , mud and tank riders will see it right:thumb2:

John.

 

[Guest]

Indeed, a vast improvement over the Mk6. Hot beverages, a biccy dispenser and a hot water bottle for the colder transits!!!

But no WC...

 

[Waspie]

But no WC...

Oh you armoured person you!! The hole in the centre of the carpet isn't just for pouring ones dregs from tiffin you know!!!! Keep up please. Magic Carpet design has been around a long time you know!!!! :smiling: :smiling: :upside:

 

[Waspie]

With this being the thinnest PE I'm struggling to gauge any depth of field with having only one good eye. At least a coat of paint , mud and tank riders will see it right:thumb2:

John.

That is the problem I suffer with John. Depth of field and I have two eyes, well usually!! Gin has a detrimental effect of vision I find too!!! That's the problem with dealing in small scale I guess!!