discussion M3A1 BY ILOVE KITS IN 1/35 SCALE LEND LEASE DIORAMA

[scottie3158]

Coming on very nicely indeed John. It does indeed look a lot better than the slab sided M3's

 

[Guest]

The M3 mediums had a reputation for being relatively roomy, probably more so in British service than American, though — given the cramped size of British tanks of the period, as well as the fact that the Americans stuffed seven men into an M3 while the British had only six (by relocating the radio from the hull to the turret, which meant there didn’t need to be a radio operator sitting next to the driver). Though I suspect the M3A1’s sleeker looks also means it was more cramped than the other members of the family.

Incidentally, your model is an early M3A1: the loader’s hatch (the big one in the hull roof, to the right of the turret) opens forward. It was found this made it hard to close because it was difficult for the loader to lift it, so they later changed it around to have the hinges at the back instead of the front.

Glad I wasn't in one then.at my age it's very dangerous for any one to be near .
Yes that hatch , so I did get it right. Going to find a figure of a tankie to pop in. Also looking at tank riders on line , I've had the Tamiya before so this time gone for the ICM 34640. There's only 4.Any more then they might fall off

Coming on very nicely indeed John. It does indeed look a lot better than the slab sided M3's

Thanks Paul.

 

[Guest]

Took some time to get used to using the jig, there's not a great deal of room to fit everything in
The new tape, well I've done another length in the jig band put the green side up so in the morning I will see how easy it will be to remove.
Figures now on order, some big differences between sellers from £ 12: 70 to. £27.Yes that was in the UK as well.

 

[Guest]

Glad I wasn't in one then.at my age it's very dangerous for any one to be near .

Oh, I don’t know, aging Aussies manage it too

Or if you want the full version, there’s thirty parts. Though the whole thing is interesting, parts 20, 21 and 22 are really worth watching.

There's only 4.Any more then they might fall off

They can probably use the front of the tank as a slide

 

[Guest]

Really interesting video, they certainly had there work cut out.Nice to watch people that knew what they were doing.

 

[Guest]

The way they kludge a modern engine in there is quite interesting, but I’ll say it again: the gold-star episodes are 20 to 22.

 

[Guest]

1st track length done, leaving it over night to fully dry.

Will watch the rest of the video tonight as had to stop when we had visitors.

 

[Guest]

A brilliant video, two very skilled guys.

 

[Si Benson]

Coming along nicely there John :thumb2:
Seems I missed a few updates…..don’t seem to be getting notifications on threads I’m watching :thinking:

edit….i didn’t click the email box after all :smiling5:

 

[Guest]

Coming along nicely there John :thumb2:
Seems I missed a few updates…..don’t seem to be getting notifications on threads I’m watching :thinking:

edit….i didn’t click the email box after all :smiling5:

Its me that's the older one Si. Thanks for looking in.

 

[grumpa]

Sorry so late John, looking great as always.

Jim.

 

[Guest]

Sorry so late John, looking great as always.

Jim.

Hi Jim . Nice to have you pop in.
Hope life's treating you well ?

 

[Guest]

I've managed to finish those tracks, with out Jakko's very kind help think I would have struggled to assembly them, so thanks to Jakko.

Don't think I've managed to loose that many pins connectors but I'm going to be short, the good thing I am going to have this entering water to those missing links can be forgotten. A shame though If you wanted to have it on dry land.

I bought some very cheap tweezers from Temu cost .89 p though I'd risk it, so glad I did. Going to keep these only for track parts only.










Just right tip size for picking up very small parts, and with out pinging them in to the carpet monster. Considering how much I've paid in the past from Uk sellers makes you think.



Next will be to paint them, think I will also paint the lower half of the tank Fit those tracks, mask up and paint the upper hull . Need to do a couple of addition s such as cables for the lights, and tone of those fuel tanks. Think they must have been strapped on, will have a look on the web unless one of you knows.

Thanks for staying with this.

John.

 

[Waspie]

A positive result then John. Tweezers and Jacko, you need nothing more when putting tracks together!!

 

[Guest]

It’s not a bad set as far as workable tracks go, but like most, it would be nice if they would give you a handful more than are actually required. Still, not as bad as AFV Club’s Sherman sets, which are not long enough for a long-hull tank (M4A4) despite giving you more links per side than the real tank had …

As for painting, I would suggest not installing the tracks at all yet. Fitting them now, with the upper hull loose, will not be much easier than with the upper hull in place, so IMHO, you might as well first build the rest of the tank, paint all of it in one go, and only then fit the tracks. This will save masking, at any rate.

Alternatively, since the lower hull and whole suspension of these tanks typically got an all-over covering of mud quite quickly in wet conditions, you could fit the track before painting, build the rest of the model, spray the upper hull olive drab and then the whole lower hull, suspension, tracks, etc. in a mud colour that matches the groundwork in the diorama.

 

[Guest]

A positive result then John. Tweezers and Jacko, you need nothing more when putting tracks together!!

Your right there Doug.:smiling2:

It’s not a bad set as far as workable tracks go, but like most, it would be nice if they would give you a handful more than are actually required. Still, not as bad as AFV Club’s Sherman sets, which are not long enough for a long-hull tank (M4A4) despite giving you more links per side than the real tank had …

As for painting, I would suggest not installing the tracks at all yet. Fitting them now, with the upper hull loose, will not be much easier than with the upper hull in place, so IMHO, you might as well first build the rest of the tank, paint all of it in one go, and only then fit the tracks. This will save masking, at any rate.

Alternatively, since the lower hull and whole suspension of these tanks typically got an all-over covering of mud quite quickly in wet conditions, you could fit the track before painting, build the rest of the model, spray the upper hull olive drab and then the whole lower hull, suspension, tracks, etc. in a mud colour that matches the groundwork in the diorama.

Can see your point, but as the track guards would not be on yet wouldn't that be a better to paint the tracks then while they are drying do the lower hull , then assemble?

 

[Guest]

The tracks should just slide under the track guards (assuming you mean the mudguards by that, not sand shields that completely cover the upper run: there should not be sand shields on a Soviet M3 medium, AFAIK) if you start at the back and push them forward over the return rollers. Your method should work just as well, of course — though, as you said, it means you would need to mask the lower hull when painting the upper hull.

 

[Guest]

Getting to grips with the tracks now, I have a couple of sets if you want to get your teeth into some more :smiling5:
Those tweezers look like they belong in a medievil tool box, not been down the museum of late have you, liberating items to save returning them to the country we nicked them from...
Missing end connectors, just put them on the inside of the track, the wheels will hide them...
Looking forward to more of the build.

 

[Guest]

The tracks should just slide under the track guards (assuming you mean the mudguards by that, not sand shields that completely cover the upper run: there should not be sand shields on a Soviet M3 medium, AFAIK) if you start at the back and push them forward over the return rollers. Your method should work just as well, of course — though, as you said, it means you would need to mask the lower hull when painting the upper hull.

Can you enlighten me which part to remove please .

 

[Guest]

Getting to grips with the tracks now, I have a couple of sets if you want to get your teeth into some more :smiling5:
Those tweezers look like they belong in a medievil tool box, not been down the museum of late have you, liberating items to save returning them to the country we nicked them from...
Missing end connectors, just put them on the inside of the track, the wheels will hide them...
Looking forward to more of the build.

Er, no thanks Wibble, but very kind of you to offer.
Going to keep those tweezers in a carton so I don't use them near CA !
Wobble