G
Hi people. Picked this up at a 30% off sale here in Adelaide for my first model build attempt since I was a child. Do you think a newbie 58 year old will have much trouble?
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hi Andrew
I am sure you will have great fun. Just take your time and do plenty of dry fits before getting the glue out.
Jim
I am sure you will have great fun. Just take your time and do plenty of dry fits before getting the glue out.
Jim
G
just started on the idler as per instructions. I thought they may have clicked together but they are loose?? Is this correct? and the poly cap loose? Sorry for the lame questions but don't want to muck it up on the first night.
You are gluing the parts, right?
Hi Andrew,
I have the same kit in mothball so hang on a minute as I detach the hull and also look at the instruction sheet if I still have the box. As far as I know the idler wheels that are situated at the top front would be the same as the road wheels except that is has more bolts. They use the same size polycaps(short). The polycaps are slotted in without glue then the front and back of the idler or road wheels are glued together. Add glue only to the outer side(the part that slots into part A1) of the part A17 and A2.
I hope that's clear.
Cheers,
Richard
I have the same kit in mothball so hang on a minute as I detach the hull and also look at the instruction sheet if I still have the box. As far as I know the idler wheels that are situated at the top front would be the same as the road wheels except that is has more bolts. They use the same size polycaps(short). The polycaps are slotted in without glue then the front and back of the idler or road wheels are glued together. Add glue only to the outer side(the part that slots into part A1) of the part A17 and A2.
I hope that's clear.
Cheers,
Richard
G
hahahaha........rookie! I only read where it said "Do not cement". didn't realise it only meant the poly caps. Thanks guys. There will be more dumb questions I am sure.
Don't worry Andrew, keep them coming. There are no stupid questions and we are all here to help each other. 
Yup, keep them coming, no worries.
Cheers,
Richard
Cheers,
Richard
Andrew
Tamiya are world famous for there poly cap wheel system. It allows your model to be used as a "toy" if you so wish. Some Tamiya kits allow you to put a little motor and axle inside so that the AFV can travel along under its own steam. Most modellers end up gluing everything in place once they are happy with their set up. You may also want to consider whether to stick the wheels on yet as it maybe easier for you to paint the hull and the wheels separetly and then stick them all together at the end. Do whatever you are most comfortable with. Good choice of build by the way:thumb2:
Steve
Tamiya are world famous for there poly cap wheel system. It allows your model to be used as a "toy" if you so wish. Some Tamiya kits allow you to put a little motor and axle inside so that the AFV can travel along under its own steam. Most modellers end up gluing everything in place once they are happy with their set up. You may also want to consider whether to stick the wheels on yet as it maybe easier for you to paint the hull and the wheels separetly and then stick them all together at the end. Do whatever you are most comfortable with. Good choice of build by the way:thumb2:
Steve
G
And their Leopard was indeed also available motorised. This one has some holes in the hull floor for switches and things for that purpose, and Andrew may be able to see a moulded-in battery holder too (I’m not sure — the only Tamiya Leopard I ever built has its turret glued on so I can’t check).
My advice would be to leave the wheels separate, which the poly caps make very easy. The model has one-piece tracks that just pop round the wheels, and given the motorisable nature of the kit, the hull top probably comes loose too — a notch at the back and one or two big poly caps at the front, as I recall, so you can still put the wheels tracks on even after gluing the side skirts to the hull top, just as long as you don’t glue the hull top to the hull bottom.
In any case, Tamiya kits are probably your best bet if you’re wondering if you can put together a model. Stay well away from brands like Dragon or AFV Club until you’ve got a bit more experience, for example, as they tend to have many more, much smaller, and more fiddly parts.
BTW, Andrew, in the interest of historical accuracy I’ll point out that this doesn’t build into an Australian Leopard without some modifications. Of course, you may not care about that — just mentioning it in case you want to build a reasonably accurate model of one. If not, then ignore what I said
G
Thank you for the quick responses with tips and info. You guys are great!
The model will probably sit somewhere on a display shelf so historically it is not important.
I want to build some others from WW1 & 2 and make into dioramas later.
Can't believe how excited this 58 year old kid is.
The model will probably sit somewhere on a display shelf so historically it is not important.
I want to build some others from WW1 & 2 and make into dioramas later.
Can't believe how excited this 58 year old kid is.
G
I agree with Rick .
It's heartwarming to see people offering help to Andrew.
Getting a model right on your return is important , it will give you the confidence to continue this great hobby. Good luck with the build.
John.
It's heartwarming to see people offering help to Andrew.
Getting a model right on your return is important , it will give you the confidence to continue this great hobby. Good luck with the build.
John.
G
Hi Andrew and welcome a bit late I know, it's better to ask for help or suggestion before rather than later and there's never a stupid question, we all get stuck for time to time I know I do.
Good luck with the rest of your build :thumb2:
Pete.
Good luck with the rest of your build :thumb2:
Pete.
Hi Andrew, welcome to the group.
Hi Andrew
Welcome to the madhouse.....you’ll love it. Someone is always able to help if you get stuck!
Tim
Welcome to the madhouse.....you’ll love it. Someone is always able to help if you get stuck!
Tim
Andrew,
Most Tamiya tanks are ideal for a first time build - they fit together very well, and most importantly look the part when finished. They may not be as detailed as some of the other makers offerings ( or as costly ), but careful painting helps a lot! Their instructions are pretty clear, which is more than can be said for some major manufacturers! The Tammy Churchill and Cromwell are good models, but it depends on which period and country you are aiming for..........
Good Modelling
Dave
Most Tamiya tanks are ideal for a first time build - they fit together very well, and most importantly look the part when finished. They may not be as detailed as some of the other makers offerings ( or as costly ), but careful painting helps a lot! Their instructions are pretty clear, which is more than can be said for some major manufacturers! The Tammy Churchill and Cromwell are good models, but it depends on which period and country you are aiming for..........
Good Modelling
Dave
Welcome aboard. A great kit to start with, and has been said already there is no such thing as a dumb question we are all learning off each other everyday.
G
Quick update. Going slow and hope I am doing it correct? I guess paint will cover the glue smudges? Painted the shovels & tools last night, will add photos tonight.View attachment 309949View attachment 309950View attachment 309951
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