discussion Non-slip tweezers?

[Tworrs]

I would like to know whether anyone has come up with a way of treating the tangs of tweezers to make them non-slip?
Maybe I'm just not doing it right, but gripping very small plastic parts with a metal tang tweezer, has me searching the floor for the parts as they tends to have a mind of its own, they just ping off everywhere.
I tried coating the tangs with contact adhesive and let it dry out thoroughly but that didn't work.
I'm open to suggestions from those with more experience, and clever tricks up their sleeves :smiling:
Thanks in advance
Garry

 

[Gern]

Fix a small piece of emery cloth to the end of your tweezers with superglue then trim the edges to fit.

 

[Tworrs]

Great suggestion Dave, many thanks

 

[David Lovell]

I only really work in braille scale its not often I build 35th (leggo scale) if I do use tweeser the two pairs ive got are medical grade and totally diffrent beasts to run of the mill tweesers their good but still not fool proof. You can purchase those pens with a sticky little ball on the end great for photo etch just put a small dot of CA where the etch it to be positioned on the model using a cocktail stick and pop it on using the pen ,these can be used as well to hold small parts in place whilst you leech some TET (other brands are available)around the piece. Of course a cocktail stick with a small blob of blue tack does the same job , the best tool though your finger put a small dot of glue where the part goes moisten the end of your finger dab piece to pick up and put in place cement should be enough to release from finger secure part with TET. Also do you really need to pick the piece up with tweesers you'd be surprised just what you can pick up with your thumb and fore finger ,study the instructions as well they don't always give the best sequence to put things together. Dave
Study the part to be picked up there is always a better way to approach handling it with the tweesers and most importantly what a lot of people forget its a small plastic part no need to grip it as if its a pallet of bricks just enough pressure to hold the piece that way if it slips out you don't have to call a taxi to go and find it.

 

[Tworrs]

Thanks David, some great suggestions.
I agree that the thumb and index finger work very well, it's only when I get to the very small parts that I battle a bit. Here I'm talking parts that may be 3mm.
The blue tack on a toothpick has helped me at times as well.
You are right though, I need to take my time and analyse the part and where it needs to go, and then use the appropriate tool for each operation.

 

[Ian M]

The sand paper trick is quite a good one, but the biggest reason things ping off across the known universe is due to gripping things to hard.
I have quite good successes with reverse tweezers that you squeeze to open. Thus the 'clamping force' is minimal.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Never had much luck with them myself until I bought a couple of good quality jewellers tweezers. The most important thing is that the tweezer jaws close parallel to each other. Anything else squeezes the part out and into orbit. I still use the blue tack trick though, sometimes with the tweezers, and find it more reliable. I’ve also been known to leave a scrap of sprue on the part to make it more manageable. The clean up can be completed once the part is in place and the glue properly set.

 

[GerryW]

........I have quite good successes with reverse tweezers that you squeeze to open. Thus the 'clamping force' is minimal.

Was going to suggest these as well - just seems strange to use them - squeeze to open, release to grip

 

[Tworrs]

The sand paper trick is quite a good one, but the biggest reason things ping off across the known universe is due to gripping things to hard.
I have quite good successes with reverse tweezers that you squeeze to open. Thus the 'clamping force' is minimal.

Thanks Ian
You are right, having not built a model for so many years, I have to train my hands again. All the work I have done in the interim has required a more firm and direct grip. Nothing that practice won't overcome though.

 

[Tworrs]

Never had much luck with them myself until I bought a couple of good quality jewellers tweezers. The most important thing is that the tweezer jaws close parallel to each other. Anything else squeezes the part out and into orbit. I still use the blue tack trick though, sometimes with the tweezers, and find it more reliable. I’ve also been known to leave a scrap of sprue on the part to make it more manageable. The clean up can be completed once the part is in place and the glue properly set.

Thanks Tim
I hadn't though of leaving a small amount of sprue attached for manipulation, and then cleaning it up afterwards, Great tip!

 

[Tworrs]

Was going to suggest these as well - just seems strange to use them - squeeze to open, release to grip

I have to agree Gerry, it does seem counterintuitive doesn't it.
I'll have to try them out, I'm sure my good lady has some somewhere.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Thanks Tim
I hadn't though of leaving a small amount of sprue attached for manipulation, and then cleaning it up afterwards, Great tip!

No probs Garry. I also do this to help when cleaning up small parts, because they still have mould lines on them.

 

[GerryW]

I have to agree Gerry, it does seem counterintuitive doesn't it.
I'll have to try them out, I'm sure my good lady has some somewhere.

I've only got the one set, came in a set of tweezers bought from a jewelry/watch tool suppliers

 

[David Lovell]

Also I know this might sound daft but some bits that are made from three or four pieces if possible I'll build on the sprue then remove and fit to the build ,easier to clean up as a larger part than three or four small pieces ,also I'll build all the pairs of road wheels on the sprue saves having loads of parts all over the bench(dining table). Lots of little things that I'm sure will come back to you the more you get back into it. Dave

 

[Tworrs]

Also I know this might sound daft but some bits that are made from three or four pieces if possible I'll build on the sprue then remove and fit to the build ,easier to clean up as a larger part than three or four small pieces ,also I'll build all the pairs of road wheels on the sprue saves having loads of parts all over the bench(dining table). Lots of little things that I'm sure will come back to you the more you get back into it. Dave

Not daft at all Dave, it makes a lot of sense, and definitely something that I will add to my knowledge arsenal.

 

[Mini Me]

Tweezers are at best a useful tool, but can also become an eating utensil for the Carpet Monster! Parallel is key .....there is a product called end dip. It's sort of a liquid rubber or vinyl like substance for dipping your small hand tools into to give them a new grip. You might try a small amount of that applied to the gripping surfaces. Just let it dry really well first. Rick H.

 

[Tworrs]

Tweezers are at best a useful tool, but can also become an eating utensil for the Carpet Monster! Parallel is key .....there is a product called end dip. It's sort of a liquid rubber or vinyl like substance for dipping your small hand tools into to give them a new grip. You might try a small amount of that applied to the gripping surfaces. Just let it dry really well first. Rick H.

Thanks Rick, I'll look that one up :smiling: