Thanks Steve, It will be fun picking out the stones I'm quite looking forward to it in my own sad way.
Mick, Thanks mate I find it hard to come up with an idea for a building that doesn't look like mini art haven't done it first lol.
not stew again.
- Thread starter scottie3158
- Start date
Not a lot to report as not much time at the bench. I have given the stonework some attention picking out the stones in various browns to give some variation and the lintels in a stone grey this has all had a couple of coats of kleer.
Next I have made a start on the woodwork my first attempt was using balsa but I didn't like it. The next try was using evergreen sheet. These were cut to size and the word grain put in using a razor saw and the planks by using a panel scriber. These will be painted and weathered then the metalwork fitted.
The kitchen has also received a pre shade and a coat of panzer grey ready for the next stage.
Scottie
Next I have made a start on the woodwork my first attempt was using balsa but I didn't like it. The next try was using evergreen sheet. These were cut to size and the word grain put in using a razor saw and the planks by using a panel scriber. These will be painted and weathered then the metalwork fitted.
The kitchen has also received a pre shade and a coat of panzer grey ready for the next stage.
Scottie
WOW... that wall looks amaizing :thumb2: :thumb2: :thumb2: :thumb2: :thumb2:
Hi Scottie
Building coming on a treat. Like the start on the woodwork. You would think that to model wood you would be best using real wood but that is not the case. I've seen real wood used successfully but it can also look wrong.
Jim
Building coming on a treat. Like the start on the woodwork. You would think that to model wood you would be best using real wood but that is not the case. I've seen real wood used successfully but it can also look wrong.
Jim
Thanks Greg looks ok using the 2 foot rule lol.
Jim, I think the problem was me I was a bit impatient between stages which caused the balsa to go all fluffy and the various colours to blur into one. You are right though real wood can be hit or miss.
I'm loving the hell out of this Paul. You just keep getting better and better!!! But hey, You gotta stop showing off with this foam stuff my friend. I mean everybody has some foam, even me...……..
So what's the big deal??? Huh!!! Wadda ya mean you have to scribe it???? Doesn't it come already made on the other side of the sheets??? Damn, I guess I better open the package and have look......….Seller told me a story I think…………..
Anyway, top work Buddy and I love following this project!!!!!!!!
Prost
Allen
So what's the big deal??? Huh!!! Wadda ya mean you have to scribe it???? Doesn't it come already made on the other side of the sheets??? Damn, I guess I better open the package and have look......….Seller told me a story I think…………..
Anyway, top work Buddy and I love following this project!!!!!!!!
Prost
Allen
Hello mate I suggest you get the blue stuff out and try it if I can do it anyone can.
Paul, I don't think I could do half as good a job as you have on your building. I took out the sheets and found out they are blank on both sides…...I'm so depressed….
Do you have one of those scribe pen tools things to work with??? It's all new to me so I'll have to see what I can find tomorrow and give it a try on a sheet!!!
Do you have one of those scribe pen tools things to work with??? It's all new to me so I'll have to see what I can find tomorrow and give it a try on a sheet!!!
Allen. I just use a pencil or biro to put in the detail. If it is the same foam that I use one side is smoother than the other this is the side you should try to detail. Just use gentle pressure and have fun. If you want brickwork use an old brush remove the bristles and form the fertile into the shape you want and press this in to form the patterns.
Thanks so much buddy!!! I only wish my current build had buildings in it.....I do want to give this a try so bad! You, JR and a few others make it look so easy.
In an old issue of Art Of Modelling, Emmanuelle Nouaillier had an article on making a red brick wall, with repairs, aged and weathered up. It looked like a hell of a lot of work, but the end result was mindboggling and so realistic looking..………...
Thanks again and have a super weekend!!!
In an old issue of Art Of Modelling, Emmanuelle Nouaillier had an article on making a red brick wall, with repairs, aged and weathered up. It looked like a hell of a lot of work, but the end result was mindboggling and so realistic looking..………...
Thanks again and have a super weekend!!!
Allen,
I have followed a few of his builds as well he is a great inspiration to me although I am along way off achieving what he does, but it's fun practicing.
take care mate and have a play.
Just spent a relaxing hour sticking individual roof tiles to a piece of cardboard. This will fit the main roof, another two smaller ones to do. When they have dried I will paint them in various shades of reds and orange. But first I will tidy the edges up a little or I might just leave them for that old rustic look.
G
Coming on well Paul .
The problem with all woods and especially with Balsa is the grain rising when you apply any water based paint .
You can reduce this by wetting the surface slightly, letting the grain rise and then cut back with a fine paper. The other problem with real wood is of course the grain size.
I've used Balsa before and still like it, the main problem being any PVA glue remains which will never take paint.,
The plastic card treated with a small wire brush can give some realistic results and of course paints perfectly.
I liked the way you had introduced the split ends into the timber, makes it look real straight away .
The problem with all woods and especially with Balsa is the grain rising when you apply any water based paint .
You can reduce this by wetting the surface slightly, letting the grain rise and then cut back with a fine paper. The other problem with real wood is of course the grain size.
I've used Balsa before and still like it, the main problem being any PVA glue remains which will never take paint.,
The plastic card treated with a small wire brush can give some realistic results and of course paints perfectly.
I liked the way you had introduced the split ends into the timber, makes it look real straight away .
Everything looking great Paul.
I love what you've done, but while John has raised the balsa issue, I'll give my two pennies worth. I like it and use it where I can. I give it a just a wash of colour, as I'm usually making bare wood. This brings out the grain built into it. I have to be careful with PVA and the grain does rise, but when its dry, you can rub off the raised grain with your finger, before drybrushing it. being in the commercial world so long makes me look for short cuts all the time. And I'm lazy!
Andy
I love what you've done, but while John has raised the balsa issue, I'll give my two pennies worth. I like it and use it where I can. I give it a just a wash of colour, as I'm usually making bare wood. This brings out the grain built into it. I have to be careful with PVA and the grain does rise, but when its dry, you can rub off the raised grain with your finger, before drybrushing it. being in the commercial world so long makes me look for short cuts all the time. And I'm lazy!
Andy
John and Andy,
Thanks very much for the thumbs up. I agree totally with your points on the balsa and I also enjoy using it but on this occasion I couldn't get the look I was after.
Hopefully the plastic "wood" will look ok when I am finished.
Thanks very much for the thumbs up. I agree totally with your points on the balsa and I also enjoy using it but on this occasion I couldn't get the look I was after.
Hopefully the plastic "wood" will look ok when I am finished.
Hi Scottie
Interesting thoughts on balsa. Coffee stirrers are not such soft wood so may work ok, where their size is not a problem.
Like the tiles. Looks good with rustic edges.
Jim
Interesting thoughts on balsa. Coffee stirrers are not such soft wood so may work ok, where their size is not a problem.
Like the tiles. Looks good with rustic edges.
Jim
G
Thd building is looking great Paul :smiling3:.
the roof t's looking super cool can't wait to see more.... ;-) ;-)
G
Just to come back on the PVA staining the wood, if you wipe the surplus glue , while wet ,with a little cellulose thinners it will paint perfectly well .
Jim, I have lots of coffee stirrers, but you just reminded me I had them lol I had forgotten but they will come in useful later.
Thanks Ralph.
Thanks Greg it's coming on and I'm enjoying the build.
Cheers John great tip.
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