discussion Nozzle cap on airbrush

[Guest]

Hi guys, I've just got into airbrushing and have bought a as186 compressor and a cheap and cheerful gravity fed airbrush. The airbrush was working fine until yesterday. The nozzle cap was screwed on properly before and it was working fine, however now i only get air and no paint/water with it screwed on fully. In order to get any spray I have to loosen the nozzle cap and it's being temperamental. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening. Any help would be appreciated. Saj

 

[Guest]

It could be that the nozzle is blocked try giving it a good clean with some thinner then give it another go.

 

[Guest]

I don't think its blocked i've soaked the nozzle tip, the nozzle cap in vallejo airbrush cleaner for 8 hours. I've also thoroughly dismantled and cleaned the rest of the airbrush

 

[Guest]

Saj, these cheap Chinese ones can be a pain because their manufacturing standards vary quite a bit.

The way the airbrush works is that the passage of air through the nozzle cap creates a vacuum, which sucks paint through the nozzle & atomizes it into a spray.

If the nozzle cap & nozzle aren't in the right place, the vacuum won't form correctly.

Have a look at this link, the guy goes into this subject in great detail. I ended up removing the o-ring seal on my nozzle cap which solved all my problems.

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/master-g22

Hope it helps, Patrick

 

[Guest]

No paint but plenty of air equals normally blockage Sajjad.

Sight from the back of the nozzle up against the light and the orifice if clear will be bright and round.

If not come back and we all will thinks of other problems it may well be.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Sorry to disagree Laurie, but in order to

have no paint at all the nozzle would need to be completely blocked. That's unlikely after an 8 hour soak in cleaner.

The answer is much more likely to lay with the position of the nozzle cap as this is vital to the creation of the vacuum.

 

[Guest]

Sorry to disagree Laurie, but in order t

have no paint at all the nozzle would need to be completely blocked. That's unlikely after an 8 hour soak in cleaner.

The answer is much more likely to lay with the position of the nozzle cap as this is vital to the creation of the vacuum.

 

[Guest]

Sorry to

 

[Guest]

Sorry, didn't mean to post that 3 times!

 

[Guest]

I have had a look at the tip and it looks pretty clear to me. There is a clear round hole when held up to the light. I'll have a look at that link as i don't think the nozzle is in the right position. On another note i'm looking at upgrading the airbrush as the couple of times that it worked I was very impressed with the results. What do you guys think of the iwata neo?

 

[Guest]

.

 

[Guest]

Haha sure patrick meant no offence But success!! I got it to work. Turns out i wasn't tightening the nozzle tip enough, i tightened it more than i dared to and hey presto it works! But i am looking to upgrade so any recommendations would be appreciated. It goes without saying but i appreciate the help guys. I've almost completed 3 models i have been working on and should hopefully be posting up some pics soon

 

[Guest]

That is ok Sajjad and I am so sorry to involve you. Unfortunately divergence of opinion can cause problems but we all have our own ideas which are based upon our experience. All we are trying to do is to get you up and running. In those circumstances all efforts are normally welcome.

Just for the record. The average problem with any airbrush not working is a blockage. At least with my way of working. Sometimes no amount of soaking will clear a blockage, The only way and the first port of call is to look through the nozzle to ensure it is clear. Sometimes you may have to resort to using a reamer which will physically remove hard paint which will not budge even with hours of soaking in Airbrush Cleaner. The cleaner may soften the dried paint but not loosen it from its grip in the nozzle. In fact it will in certain circumstances consolidate the paint.

If you are upgrading I would go for an Iwata or a Harder and Steenbeck. Having used brushes from both domains I can recommend either.

Harder and Steenback are great all rounders. Iwata especialliy in the higher ranges, are expensive, will give more options. I have found that Iwata do give a more smoother finish but are more decremental. Harder and Steenbeck probably better for those new to airbrushing. The H 7 S is also a more simple airbrush for cleaning.

Any more info just ask questions and you will get lots of answers. Also if you choose am model come back here to test those who have used it.

Laurie

 

[Ian M]

I have 'tidied' up the thread due to some duplicate posts.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Laurie, I will give the Harder and Steenbeck range a look. Already I have discovered the importance of cleaning an airbrush properly after use, otherwise you end up spending more time fiddling about with it rather than airbrushing!

 

[PaulTRose]

. What do you guys think of the iwata neo?

great when it works, b$£*&%d when it dosnt!...spares very expensive.....not actually made BY iwata but made FOR iwata by a chinese company.......been told by an AB retailer (not the one i got my Neo from) that they have had manufacturing problems, if you get a good then you are lucky, if you get a bad one then return it.....im currently exchanging emails with the place i got mine from

had no problems at all with mine until a month ago, its now causing peoblems

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I've had my Neo 2 years now and never failed me yet, except my poor cleaning that is

My skills aren't upto paying more for another airbrush just yet but do like what I hear about the H S range people talk about on here.

Adrian

 

[Guest]

Quite interesting Partick disagreeing 4 times.Interesting how you pick me out time and again. Have you some problem Partick.

Be interested to here !

Laurie

Laurie, I have no personal gripe with you at all. The duplicate posting was due to a problem with my phone, hence my post apologising for that. I was aware it looked as though I was trying to overemphasise may point.

With regard to this particular thread, I make no apologies for stating my point

of view. There are many other reasons for the problems that Saj encountered than a blockage. Removing the nozzle tip should always be the last option as it can lead to over tightening the delicate threads, resulting in irreparable damage. It's much better IMHO to look at other options first. Especially on what is an almost brand-new airbrush.

Saj, sorry for this to happen in your thread, but a public answer to a public question was required I think. I'm glad you resolved the problem - that's what counts.

 

[Guest]

Laurie, I have no personal gripe with you at all. The duplicate posting was due to a problem with my phone, hence my post apologising for that. I was aware it looked as though I was trying to overemphasise may point.With regard to this particular thread, I make no apologies for stating my point

of view. There are many other reasons for the problems that Saj encountered than a blockage. Removing the nozzle tip should always be the last option as it can lead to over tightening the delicate threads, resulting in irreparable damage. It's much better IMHO to look at other options first. Especially on what is an almost brand-new airbrush.

Saj, sorry for this to happen in your thread, but a public answer to a public question was required I think. I'm glad you resolved the problem - that's what counts.

No worries and thanks for the advice.

 

[Guest]

Not sure what airbrushes you have used Patrick. First for me is removing the nozzle. The nozzle in all ways is going to be the first port of call as it is the one that causes the problems 95%

With the couple of Harder and Steenbeck brushes I have I would have them them in pieces in 30secs. First call the nozzle drop into an egg cup of airbrush cleaner. The rest warm water. 4 minutes later all cleaned and put together.

iwata. HP BS. Best brush I have ever had. A beauty it does almost everything. Clean on the go plenty of airbrush cleaner through after an initial water flush through. Not as easy as an HS for dismantling as spanners are needed H&S 4 mnutes deep clean 10 minutes Iwata. Only once in 6 months had to dismantle to clean the nozzle.

Iwata HP BH nice brush for closer work. Clean immediately after use as HPBS.

Iwata Micron. Incredible brush but very difficult to use. A lot of starts and stops cleaning de blogging. But the detail and close ups (still learning) work is something else. 10mm from the subject but it needs a lot of practice and patience. Again the most delicate of nozzles. But place in an egg cup of cleaner. Tiddly little thing but superb enginnering and back together without problems.

In my experience do not be afraid of stripping down. With problems get at the nozzle straight away. If you have a good airbrush the well engineered parts will go together in perfect order no problems what so ever. Iwata nozzles are minute but the engineering is perfection.

If you have an airbrush which relies on the thickness of seals and how tight the seals have to be tightened up to work then you have an airbrush which is not well engineered. I have tried them and they were binned.

Tip with a nozzle. Dip in water when you think it is clean. Blow through the thick end of the nozzle into your palm and you will feel the blast of water if the nozzle is clear. Then look down the nozzle against a bright light. Clear. Spot on you are in action. Blockage. Steep in cleaner. Persistent. Use the needle to gently release naughty persistent paint (very gently to avoid needle damage).

Laurie