discussion Paint fumes, do I need to worry?

[pjgtech]

Another newbie question, sorry!
At the moment I will just be using the small tins/jars of paint, mostly Tamiya and some Vellajo also the cheap Airfix starter paints (not sure if i'll use them or not yet)
Do they give off fumes and will I need to wear a mask or have ventilation?
Currently just set-up in my old study, which has an openable window, but thats all it has in the way of ventilation.
Cheers

 

[pjgtech]

Actually this question also applies to the glues and thinners I will be using? (Tamiya and Revell), cheers

 

[Waspie]

Actually this question also applies to the glues and thinners I will be using? (Tamiya and Revell), cheers

Mmmm difficult. I work as a general rule in a well ventilated garage. If I'm doing a lot of spraying, (acrylics), I'll use a mask.
If brush painting again acrylics - don't use anything!!
I have to say, that's my choice and as my old boss would say re H&S, I carried out my own dynamic risk assessment!!!!!

 

[eddiesolo]

Good practice is to always open a window if you can, ventilation is key even for small painting jobs. Larger jobs, airbrushing etc get a fume box and ventilate it outside using a hose. Any rattle can usage do outside. Always wear a rated mask if you need to.

 

[pjgtech]

Just trying to think back when I painted models 40 years ago and I did not even think about ventilation or wear a mask back then!
I would wager that the paints back then were probably not as safe either, maybe even containing lead? :dizzy:
I assume they are mostly water based or acrylic now.

 

[Mark1]

Guess it all depends on how much of a buzz you wanna get out of modelling:upside:

 

[eddiesolo]

Paints are better in terms of pigments, thinners etc. It is still advisable to wear a even a decorators mask as acrylic paints, especially if airbrushing do atomize and are in the air, you are breathing those minute particles in.

I have COPD from smoking, work environment but, also from years of modelling, thinners, paints etc. It all adds up. When model painting, remember, you are fairly close to the model so you would be breathing in particulates.

 

[pjgtech]

Would generic paper masks be ok (eg: decorators type) or would I need one with a filter? Cheers

 

[BattleshipBob]

I use lacquer paints, Mr color and Tamiya LP and the answer is ---- a big fat yes!

They pong, I had a small painting room built inside the garage with a good window. I use ventilation pipes to reach the window, even though a good quality mask with the right changeable filters are 100% required!

If it's cold I also use a charcoal type of filter, so avoiding opening the winter and turning into a brass monkey

 

[pjgtech]

Would these be ok?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FFP2-Mask-...27&sprefix=face+masks+for+paint,aps,99&sr=8-7

 

[eddiesolo]

Would these be ok?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FFP2-Mask-...27&sprefix=face+masks+for+paint,aps,99&sr=8-7

Yes, they should be okay for light painting. Anything that is going to take time best to get a proper filter type, John sells some in the shop I think, that's where I bought mine from.

 

[Guest]

Acrylics - you will still get dust and overspray, so it is wise to use a dust mask like those we were forced to wear during covid - although I did see one shopper in Sainsburys with a full face gas mask....
Lacquers and enamels - I use a full filter face mask with the head straps and filters either side. And if I am doing a lot of sanding/sawing of Resin then I will also use this mask plus water to dampen down the dust.
Ad also with resin I wear eye protection safety glasses - just in case.
And do not worry about the newbie questions, far better to ask now than when you are strapped to an oxygen bottle under your raincoat and the kids chasing you asking for their football back....

 

[Jim R]

I model in a fairly large room. Airbrushing I always vent the spray booth to the outside. If brush painting acrylics I tend not to have the window open except if the room is warm. I also don't bother if I'm just glueing a few parts. If brush painting enamels I open the window. My wife does all her sewing in the same room and has never mentioned the smell. The only time I notice a chemical smell is if I wipe up with a kitchen roll, AB cleaner etc, and put the paper in the bin.

 

[Tim Marlow]

For brush painting and moderate use of adhesive I would say masks are not necessary. You will not generate aerosols or particulates and your exposure to solvents etc will be very low. You would experience greater health risks from decorating a room.

For airbrushing, and sanding resin parts I would say yes, respiratory protection is definitely required. You will generate a lot of fine particulates and aerosol mists. However, you need the right mask for the job.

Those FFP2 masks will take out some particulates (that’s the 2 part, the other bit being Filtering Face Piece), but will not touch solvents. For that you would need a filter with an A rating. They are ideal for sanding resin and plastic but not for spraying.

Mikes face mask respirator is best, half face being good enough for our needs. Look for one with A1B1 filter rating as a minimum. It needs to fit properly as well. Any air leaks around the edges mean it is ineffective. This also means that they do not work if you have a beard.

Covid type masks are no good for our purposes, by the way. They are designed to protect others from you, not you from anything much. They worked during covid by greatly reducing the viral load we could output into the community.

 

[BarryW]

It is always a good thing to spray in a well ventilated space, ideally using an extracting spray booth. Even the ‘odourless’ water based acrylics give off particulates ’ so the best advice is to use a mask as well.

If, like me, you spray smelly lacquers then a good quality extracting spray booth is a must. In an ideal world you should also use a mask. I don’t as I have never found a way to stop my glasses steaming up. I rely entirely on my spray booth.