discussion Panel Lines

[Guest]

Sorry people silly Question time


Do I need to use a airbrush to do panel line? or can I use a hairy stick. if I can what is the thinning ratio as I use enamels for my painting


Thank you all


 Russ

 

[colin m]

If you mean pre-shading, then yes, an airbrush is the way to go. Some years back I thought I would cut a big corner and use a marker pen for 'pre-shading' panel lines - big mistake.

 

[Guest]

Sorry people silly Question time


Do I need to use a airbrush to do Pre Shading? or can I use a hairy stick. if I can what is the thinning ratio as I use enamels for my painting


Thank you all


 Russ

 

[BarryW]

Sorry people silly Question time


Do I need to use a airbrush to do panel line? or can I use a hairy stick. if I can what is the thinning ratio as I use enamels for my painting


Thank you all


 Russ

You are mixing up two thing I believe.  If you mean pre-shading then you do need an airbrush but pre-shading is not about panel lines it is about modulating colour to create in miniature the way a large area of colour looks in real life, with light being reflected from different angles you do not see a solid block of colour.  Colour also fades and can bleach, in some cases it actually darkens instead of getting lighter.  Pre-shading and post-shading helps with this though it is true that often people use panel lines on an aircraft as a basis for pre-shading as panels can be 'pulled in' at the edges by rivets and therefore reflects light differently.   It looks best if you do not pre-shade too neatly along the panel lines though and work other areas as well that may benefit from being highlighted.


What I think you may be referring to is how you replicate dirt and shadow in panel lines.  That is best done by a wash of a thinned colour. There are both enamel based and water based specialist washes available.   You can also do an 'overall' sludge wash or a targetted 'pin wash' depending on what effect you want.  I would suggest that the easiest way for the first time is a sludge wash.  Do it this way:


1/ Make sure that you have glossed your model first (should have been done for decals anyway) and seal the decals under a final gloss coat to protect them.  With a water based varnish make sure it is left at least 24 hours to cure before applying a wash.


2/ Apply you wash - go all over the model and, for this, the clay based Flory washes are excellent.  Apply plenty of wash making sure it gets into all the nooks and crannies.


3/ Remove the surplus.  I use a cloth for this slightly dampened working in small areas at a time.  Cotton buds are also useful is tight areas. Always end up wiping in the direction of airflow, thats important.  Keep on gradually removing wash, leaving it in the panel lines and in the detail, until you get the effect that you want.  The beauty of doing it this way is how controllable it is on the glossed surface and can end up with either a very tired and dirty aircraft or a fairly clean one with just the detail highlighted.


The colour modulation and washes work well together to get a good overall effect.  Some drybrushing ofpigments can also help with, for instance, exhaust stains but this would be best over a matt coat, done after a matt varnish over the gloss and wash has cured.


I hope that helps.


I did a bit of a tutorial thread a while back if you want to read more about it. Here:

 

[Guest]

You are mixing up two thing I believe.  If you mean pre-shading then you do need an airbrush but pre-shading is not about panel lines it is about modulating colour to create in miniature the way a large area of colour looks in real life, with light being reflected from different angles you do not see a solid block of colour.  Colour also fades and can bleach, in some cases it actually darkens instead of getting lighter.  Pre-shading and post-shading helps with this though it is true that often people use panel lines on an aircraft as a basis for pre-shading as panels can be 'pulled in' at the edges by rivets and therefore reflects light differently.   It looks best if you do not pre-shade too neatly along the panel lines though and work other areas as well that may benefit from being highlighted.


What I think you may be referring to is how you replicate dirt and shadow in panel lines.  That is best done by a wash of a thinned colour. There are both enamel based and water based specialist washes available.   You can also do an 'overall' sludge wash or a targetted 'pin wash' depending on what effect you want.  I would suggest that the easiest way for the first time is a sludge wash.  Do it this way:


1/ Make sure that you have glossed your model first (should have been done for decals anyway) and seal the decals under a final gloss coat to protect them.  With a water based varnish make sure it is left at least 24 hours to cure before applying a wash.


2/ Apply you wash - go all over the model and, for this, the clay based Flory washes are excellent.  Apply plenty of wash making sure it gets into all the nooks and crannies.


3/ Remove the surplus.  I use a cloth for this slightly dampened working in small areas at a time.  Cotton buds are also useful is tight areas. Always end up wiping in the direction of airflow, thats important.  Keep on gradually removing wash, leaving it in the panel lines and in the detail, until you get the effect that you want.  The beauty of doing it this way is how controllable it is on the glossed surface and can end up with either a very tired and dirty aircraft or a fairly clean one with just the detail highlighted.


The colour modulation and washes work well together to get a good overall effect.  Some drybrushing ofpigments can also help with, for instance, exhaust stains but this would be best over a matt coat, done after a matt varnish over the gloss and wash has cured.


I hope that helps.


I did a bit of a tutorial thread a while back if you want to read more about it. Here:

Thank you so much Barry for the info giving it a go for the first time on my Short Sunderland

 

[Guest]

A tip I was given some time ago that produces nice results is to not use black for shadowing but to use the base colour darkened as a wash then dry brush the base colour lightened for highlighting, I find it gives a "clean" look.


This works very well with Games Workshop acrylic paints which I tend to use a lot as I work next door to the local GW.

 

[Guest]

Cheers RIK

 

[Guest]

last question do I let the wash dry part dry or straight away and with the enamel if I use a little thinners will this affect the gloss varnish

 

[Guest]

Thanks for reminding us about this, Barry. I read it when you first posted it and nicked several of your ideas. On re-reading it, I notice several more I'd like to try. I too am a big fan of the Flory washes, though I notice my Dark Dirt one has congealed a bit and doesn't flow properly any more. I believe it's very sensitive to contaminants, e.g. on the brush you use, so maybe I need to be more careful!

 

[BarryW]

Thanks for reminding us about this, Barry. I read it when you first posted it and nicked several of your ideas. On re-reading it, I notice several more I'd like to try. I too am a big fan of the Flory washes, though I notice my Dark Dirt one has congealed a bit and doesn't flow properly any more. I believe it's very sensitive to contaminants, e.g. on the brush you use, so maybe I need to be more careful!

Doug - try adding a small drop of washing up liquid and water then give it a really good shake.  It might be just enough to 're-awaken' the wash.