discussion Removing brush marks

[Guest]

i have put 4 layers of acrylic paint on and I am happy with the coverage but not with the brush marks. I want to smooth them down before applying varnish but not sure the best way. All I can think of is to use very fine wet & dry but not sure what grade. What do others do about it?

 

[BBdave]

Sorry I can't help but interested in the replies i get the same trouble with brush painting, I use an airbrush simply for this reason I have put numerous coats on my current project rubbed down between but still brush marks and uneven covering.


I guess it's technique and practice hopefully the skilled will help and advise you.


Dave

 

[eddiesolo]

Ask Alan 45, he paints using brushes so may have a better idea.

 

[Guest]

Not a brush painter on models Keith. But I am, to boast, a top notch house painter as I cannot abide rubbish house painting.


So this is my way which I am sure crosses into hand brush model painting. But just to say that an air brush will give you near perfection. Only two thin coats of paint needed rather than the 4 with a hand brush.


First it is better to put on each layer with a very thinned paint and not to full a coat just enough to cover. Do not go back over the surface covered to fill any thinness as by that time the thinners will be evaporating and then cometh the brush marks. Keep the mixture stirred all the time which ensures the brush is kept well moist all the time right up through the bristles.


Wait to dry most thoroughly. If you can see brush marks any where then a 2000 gauge wet and dry but the surface must be well cured. Just before any further coat use a tack rag to get rid of dust and hairs. It is a patience in time affair. Also wash your brush before each coat to get rid of rubbish. Before starting finally dip the brush in thinners the worst thing that can happen is for the brush to dry in the middle with paint the thinners in the brush will keep it moist.


Mentioned recently a guy who used to show his stuff on this forum. He only built Lancasters and hand brushing his finishes were something to behold. Not sure which paint you are using. If it was me I would use Vallejo Model Air. Although an airbrush paint it is very forgiving and levels out . Needs additional coats compared to say Vallejo Model.


I have tried the above and it works. But the simple answer is Airbrushing.


Laurie

 

[Alan 45]

Fine wet and dry will do the job but you will have to repaint it , best thing to do is once you've rubbed it down thin your paint by about 25% so it's nice and smooth , test this on a none porous surface but not glossy


And use a fine bristled brush like a sable hair and always remember to go in one direction


I hope this helps

 

[Guest]

Thanks very much for the info guys, much appreciated. I am going to rub it down, tomorrow, then paint again with the paint diluted. As it is acrylic I will dilute with water? Thanks again. Cheers. Keith.

 

[BBdave]

I think you need to use acrylic thinner appropriate to the brand your using but I'll stand corrected if not


Dave

 

[Guest]

I think you need to use acrylic thinner appropriate to the brand your using but I'll stand corrected if not
Dave

You got in before me Dave and I agree 100%. That is essential as the paint will flow better Put a drop of water on the work top and it will have edges. Put the same with thinners and it flattens out.


Laurie

 

[Guest]

Am I right in recalling that you are using Rowney System 3?

 

[Ian M]

I think a part of the problem could be the paint. Artist paints are expected to carry a brush mark or not dry to a glass smooth finish. I would bite the bullet and buy some paint for models.


Thin the paints and use a retarder. Use a flat brush for large areas and pointy ones for the small stuff.


Don't over work the paint, put it on in even, wet strokes, making sure to avoid blobs and ridges forming.


Leave it to dry for at least 24 hours before going near it again.


You could probably get away with a second coat without rubbing down.


Ian M

 

[Guest]

I have to agree with Ian. I just went to my old art box and peeled off a wedge of system 3 from the lid (which served as a palette) which is at least 3 years old, and it is still very plastic and flexible. This will not lend itself well to being cut back with wet & dry. Whilst the basic make up of acrylic paints is similar, they tend to be very different in their usage. And despite having earned a living for a while as a painter, using system 3 and cryla flow, I'd never attempt to make a smooth, flat surface from it. To get it thin enough to flow smoothly, you're gonna need loads of very thin coats. They'll come in handy for figure painting, dioramas etc, but I reckon you need to bite the bullet and get some specialist ones. Despite what many folks say, I find Tamiya brushes beautifully, once you've thinned it a tad with Tamiya thinners, model air also is good for brushing, but you'll need a bit of practice on plastic bottles to get the technique - the most important being knowing when the paint starts to set. This gets tricky in the summer! But if you watch a proper painter and decorator, the last brush strokes are with the brush at a very low angle and a very light touch, known as "laying off". If you time this right, you'll have a beautifully smooth surface. The slower the drying time, the more latitude you'll have for that final laying off. A good brush will also help enormously!

 

[Guest]

One of these will give a perfect finish at £5.95, the old chestnut of "sable or nothing" is simply not true any more. The only major advantage of sable over synthetic these days, is that you get a better point with round brushes, as the good ones use the natural point found on the end of the individual hairs. W&N Cotman brushes are brilliant and good value. john's prices on Model Air are as keen as mustard, and you can buy a few each month!

 

[Guest]

Thanks again guys. Yes I am using Rowney System 3 so I will change it as it is obviously unsuitable. This is proving to be a steep learning curve!

 

[Guest]

For sure! But you'll have a lot of fun learning, and this place has a wealth of experience, in many fields and materials.

 

[Guest]

Thanks again guys. Yes I am using Rowney System 3 so I will change it as it is obviously unsuitable. This is proving to be a steep learning curve!

Yes we have all been there Keith. But one thing for sure if you are going to build good models then all is necessary technique patience and practice.


My first model I found it sent me in a whirl. So much to learn for that first model. But not despair you do have a great backing here Keith and it all comes through by return of post. It is the best model making college there is.


Laurie

 

[Guest]

Thanks John and Laurie and everyone else. Without this forum and all the advice I have been given I would in all probability have given it up as a bad job by now. As it happens I am enjoying the experience and looking forward to my next build. Cheers. Keith.

 

[Guest]

Maybe try changing the paints that you use i have just changed my paints to Revell Aqua Colour and they brush on great no brush marks. I use water to thin them down as some of them are a little to thick to brush on at first 1 or 2 eardrop pipettes to a pot is substantial enough for me.


Everybody has their own variations of paint and it's like everything it's trial and error and of course budget, buy the best that you can afford or maybe buy one pot of each and you will find one that works for you

 

[Guest]

I have been looking at Vallejo Model Colour paints and thinners. Is that paint acrylic as it does't say? The black and white are both called gloss.

 

[Guest]

I have been looking at Vallejo Model Colour paints and thinners. Is that paint acrylic as it does't say? The black and white are both called gloss.

Yes Keith they are acrylic and very good I have to say. That is my own opinion though and others may differ.

 

[Guest]

Yes Keith they are acrylic and very good I have to say. That is my own opinion though and others may differ.

Thanks Terry I'll go ahead and proceed with my order. Cheers. Keith