Scotties meat chopper.
- Thread starter scottie3158
- Start date
G
If you hadn't mentioned the scratched piece Paul we'd have been none the wiser if it had been painted .
Engine suitably weathered as well .
Engine suitably weathered as well .
Thanks Marty.
Thanks John, managed to find the original piece today so that has been fitted.
PM Sent mate.
This is fighting me all the way. lots of small pieces and mould lines. They have tried to make it very accurate but this means in a lot of places the glue points are tiny making for very weak locations. This means I am not following the instructions and building in a sequence that makes it easier. For example the sump guard and engine mounts are part of the engine assembly stage. This made fitting the engine very difficult so I have removed the sump guard and fixed it to the chassis when this is dry I will drop the engine in place.
The rear running gear is very weak and i can imagine problems when it comes to fitting the track band.
cheers Scottie
The rear running gear is very weak and i can imagine problems when it comes to fitting the track band.
cheers Scottie
This question has been asked before but I have used the Olive Drab that is called for in the instructions, but it always seems to dark to me. When I see other peoples US builds they always seem "Greener and lighter" just wondering what you guys use.
Scottie
Scottie
G
That certainly sounds like AFV Club alright
I’ve said it before, but American OD was more of a greenish-brownish colour than actual green, and was darker than people usually think it is. Part of the problem with its darkness is that in the late 1960s, OD suddenly became lighter in shade than before due to an error in the specifications, which many modellers aren’t aware of.
Gunze-Sangyo H52 OD is apparently a good colour to use straight from the bottle, according to a test by Steve Zaloga in an old issue of Military Modelling. Other good choices are AK RC023, Hataka 065, Mr. Paint 138 or equal parts Tamiya XF-51 and XF-62.
Thanks Jakko, I knew it was a dark greeny brown as mine is. Just finished builds I see always seem greener and lighter. It must be poetic licence lol.
Hi Scottie
Great looking engine and as John says the scatched part is excellent. The running gear is very nicely detailed but does look a bit fragile - any way it could be strengthened "invisibly"
On the darkness of the colour. I know some people reckon that there is 'scale colour' which says that the small scale we work with requires the base colour to be lighter than on the real thing. Some say that's rubbish. Try Googling scale colour on models - interesting :tongue-out3:
Jim
Great looking engine and as John says the scatched part is excellent. The running gear is very nicely detailed but does look a bit fragile - any way it could be strengthened "invisibly"
On the darkness of the colour. I know some people reckon that there is 'scale colour' which says that the small scale we work with requires the base colour to be lighter than on the real thing. Some say that's rubbish. Try Googling scale colour on models - interesting :tongue-out3:
Jim
Cheers Jim,
I was thinking about strengthening it. I will see how it stands up first. Your right about the colours Normally i wouldn't bother as there would have been so many shades and hues due to so many factors. I will look up the scale colour thing.
I was thinking about strengthening it. I will see how it stands up first. Your right about the colours Normally i wouldn't bother as there would have been so many shades and hues due to so many factors. I will look up the scale colour thing.
It ain't rubbish Jim......if I use out of the bottle Panzer Grey on a 1/87 scale vehicle it looks Black when dry. Monogram did a scale color ref. book years ago on how the colors should be lightened in scale to represent a given distance from which the subject is viewed.
I have used this ref. as a guide for nearly 30 years.........very satisfied with the results. Rick H.
I have used this ref. as a guide for nearly 30 years.........very satisfied with the results. Rick H.
Rick, could you expand on that? I've found it to be true in our scale, don't know about larger. PaulE
G
Photos are very misleading. I painted my M4A3 HVSS with Tamiya OD and added a black wash over it, which made it much darker than I would like. However, in the photos I took of it, it looks about as dark as before I added the wash, both on the iPad I took them with and on my Mac — both of which have their screen brightness set pretty low, by the way.
Couple this with a lot of modellers thinking OD is “army green” and/or lightening their paint for scale effect, and you get models looking far too light in photos, even when they’re a colour that, in the flesh, probably looks quite like real OD.
Nice start Paul.
Many thanks for that it makes very interesting reading I will have to have a play. This is what I love about this forum advice and information freely given.
scottie
Hi All and a merry Christmas to you all.
Between doing all the prep and other tasks I managed a little bench time. This is certainly a fiddly kit with some very complicated build sequences and small parts, but enjoyable all the same.
Engine is now mounted as is the radiator and some of the chassis detail.
The front axle is another over complicated build, with the diff being joined to the outer parts. most other companies would have the complete axle moulded in one. Apologies still some cleaning up to do and brake line details.
The wheels are supposed to be attached at this point but will be left off until the end. The only addition to the wheels are the tyre valves.
cheers
Scottie
Between doing all the prep and other tasks I managed a little bench time. This is certainly a fiddly kit with some very complicated build sequences and small parts, but enjoyable all the same.
Engine is now mounted as is the radiator and some of the chassis detail.
The front axle is another over complicated build, with the diff being joined to the outer parts. most other companies would have the complete axle moulded in one. Apologies still some cleaning up to do and brake line details.
The wheels are supposed to be attached at this point but will be left off until the end. The only addition to the wheels are the tyre valves.
cheers
Scottie
Thank you Steve, and the very best for you and yours.
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