discussion Scratched window

[Jukebox64]

So I’m about to do the 1988 Pontiac banshee but when I opened it, the glass was loose and has some ugly scratches on it. How can I possibly fix this?
I’ve seen guys do it I just do not know exactly what grit of sandpaper or polish to use.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hiya
You need to start with the finest wet or dry paper you can get and then use micro polishing papers, working down through the grades. You can get micro fine polishing sponges from Albion alloys. Like these:

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/mi...BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAD-a1XK5W-dfVgRGrpk-S1BbXS8qe

These papers all need to be used wet, and you need to work through the grades in turn, coarsest to finest, cleaning properly between each grade and using clean water for each new paper. Finish with the finest Tamiya polishing compound you can get. This is applied like a polish, using a fine clean cloth.

Working like this will not only remove the scratch, it will significantly improve on the kit part finish, giving you a glass like shine to the part. In fact, I’d recommend the polishing compounds step even on new cleanly moulded parts, as the finish you get is so superior to moulded plastic. Another trick with this stuff is polishing black plastic parts, like bike and car seats, to give a realistic vinyl plastic finish that is superior to paint.

 

[Jukebox64]

Thanks for the information Tim. I found a package of those sanding sheets at my local hobby store. I am going to use them on the windshield and on other plastic parts.
If it gives me a smoother shinier glossier paint finish I’m more than happy to try.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Thanks for the information Tim. I found a package of those sanding sheets at my local hobby store. I am going to use them on the windshield and on other plastic parts.
If it gives me a smoother shinier glossier paint finish I’m more than happy to try.

I wouldn’t use the finest ones on unpainted plastic parts, you might affect paint adhesion. Worth using the polishing compound after painting to get a nice glow to the paintwork though. Just let the paint harden for a few days to get the best finish.

 

[PaulTRose]

Have heard of peoole polishing with toothpaste as its a mild abrasive

Ive always goy away with dipping or brushing with kleer.... Old fashioned not the current rubbish stuff

 

[Tim Marlow]

Have heard of peoole polishing with toothpaste as its a mild abrasive

Ive always goy away with dipping or brushing with kleer.... Old fashioned not the current rubbish stuff

T cut probably works as well Paul, but I’ve got a great glass like finish with the way I’ve stated. I’ve never got that to work well. Usually ends up with a cloudy or ruined canopy when I try it. Klear is a great hard varnish for gaming figures though. I always finish them with a coat of Klear followed by an artist quality matt varnish. Never had a matt varnish frosting issue since I adopted this approach. My Klear is a good fifteen years old now…..I think it will outlast me